Re: Brake bleeding sequence for 2010 fj
Just bleed the farthest line first and work your way to the shortest, replenish the fluid in the reservoir before it drains it's cavity (there is a cavity for front and rear divided in the single reservoir). This way you wont get air introduced into the circuit, which could be much more difficult to remove. This method is safe and plenty effective and can be done all by your lonesome. You can hang a small 1 quart bottle or so at each caliper as I make my rounds and use clear tubing to fit tightly over the bleeder screw. Place the hose down in the bottle with about an inch of fluid. Open the bleeder and then slowly push the brake pedal down until it stops, let off slowly and repeat. With the hose in the fluid it will not suck air back into the system. Cycle 5 or so times, tighten the bleeder, refill the reservoir and move on. It will take 15 minutes and your done. I generally drain most of each circuits fluid (one front, one rear) on the first cycle, that keeps the new fluid from being contaminated by the old. Alternatively you could pump the fluid from the reservoir, full with fresh and then begin the bleed cycle. The only time you should have to bleed a master cylinder is if you replace it. GL
The reason why we retain memories is because we are not caught in a time loop. The reason why we are not caught in a time loop is because it is not possible to go backwards in time only forward!
*CurbCrawler fabricated hidden front receiver.
*CurbCrawler fabricated Hi-Lift receiver mount.
*CurbCrawler fabricated SS dual battery tray & Walmart Battery.
*CurbCrawler fabricated 4-Gauge dash pod.
*CurbCrawler fabricated Aux fuse/relay panel.
Gibson cat-back exhaust (Dyno Proven)
Complete set of aluminum skid plates.
Receiver mounted 9k-lb rear winch.
Hayden trans cooler w/electric fan.
Factory rock rails.
LED fog & backup lights.
Husky mats: front, center & rear.