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Torque wrench ?

5K views 20 replies 16 participants last post by  RomaBoy 
#1 ·
For normal work on the FJ ie suspension. Oil change and other small projects . What would best fit those needs . 10 - 75 ft lbs or 25-250 in lbs ? O looking at 3/8 drive craftsman is having a big sale . All input is welcome.

Thank you ,
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#2 ·
I would go with 25 -250
Wheels alone need to be torqued to 85
 
#4 ·
I bought a 20-100 ft/lbs TW on Amazon, perfect range for me and compact enough to stow in the rig.
 
#7 ·
VT RainMan put the list below together and posted it a couple of years ago. It should give you a pretty good idea of what you need.

RainMan says:

"I compiled a list of some torque specification, capacities, requirements, and tolerances, etc.. Most, if not all, of this data was found on this site. I have not verified any of the data shown below. I assume no responsibility whatsover... use at YOUR own risk."


Common Torque Specs:

Engine Oil Drain Plug: 30 ft/lbs.
Gasket: 90430-12028 or 90430-12031
Front Diff:
Fill Plug: 29 ft/lbs.
Drain Plug: 48 ft/lbs.
Fill Plug Gasket: 12157-10010
Drain Plug Gasket: 90430-24003
Rear Diff:
Fill & Drain Plugs: 36 ft/lbs
Gaskets: 12157-10010
Transfer case
Fill & Drain Plugs: 27 ft/lbs
Gaskets: 90430-18008
Manual Transmission
Fill Plug.....27 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....27 ft-lbs
Gaskets: 90430-18008
5AT, Automatic transmission (A750F) :
Trans. Pan DRAIN Plug : 15 ft/lbs (metal crush washer)
Trans. Pan CHECK Plug : 21 ft/lbs (metal crush washer)
Transmission FILL Plug : 29 ft/lbs (rubber O-ring on FiLL plug).
Wheel Nuts 113 N·m (11.5 kgf·m, 85 ft·lbf)
Drive/Propeller shaft bolts: 88 N*m (899 kgf*cm, 65 ft.*lbf)
(u-joint flange yokes on both drive shafts: 65 ft. lbs.)
Spark Plugs: 14 ft/lbs
Ignition coils: 7.4 ft/lbs
Stock skids: 21ft/lb's
Skid Plate bolts - 25 ft/lbs
Brake Caliper - 110 ft/lbs
Body Mounts: 35 ft/lbs
Outer Tie-rod end (steering): Donahoe says 54 ft/lbs
Front Coilovers
Top 3 bolts - Donahoe says 30 ft/lbs... Toyota dealer says 47 ft/lbs
Lower Bolt (LCA): Toyota dealer says 100 ft/lbs
Front UCA
Upper ball joint turning torque 4.5 N*m (46 kgf*cm, 40 in.*lbf) or less
Long Bolts: Toyota dealer says 85 ft/lbs
Spindle joint: Toyota dealer says 81 ft/lbs
Front LCA
Lower ball joint turning torque 3.0 N*m (31 kgf*cm, 27 in.*lbf) or less
Front Stabilizer link ball joint turning torque 0.05 to 1.96 N*m (0.5 to 20.0 kgf*cm, 0.4 to 17.3 in.*lbf)
Rear Upper Control Arms bolts - 59 ftlbs
Rear Lower Control Arms bolts - 96 ftlbs
Rear Stabilizer link ball joint turning torque: 0.05 to 1.96 N*m (0.5 to 20.0 kgf*cm, 0.4 to 17.3 in.*lbf)
Rear FJC shocks
Upper nut: 18 ft-lbs
Lower bolt: 72 ft-lbs
Rear anti-swaybar
nut, upper link assy (frame): 11 ft-lbs
nut, lower link assy (swaybar): 52 ft-lbs
bolt, bracket cover (over bushing): 22 ft-lbs
Front axle
hub nut x Front drive shaft 174ft*lbs.

Again, all RainMan's good work. Just passing it along.
 
#10 ·
OP

I have both 3/8`s drive Craftsman, 1 in ftlbs and the other in inlbs.
I use those for light duty around the FJ (skids, drain plugs, suspension items, boat, and the shop.

for serious applications I use the Snap on 1/2drive, ie: for the lugs.

if sears is running a sale, grab a few, never hurts to have the right tool at any given need!
 
#12 ·
I personally wouldn't recommend Craftsman for a torque wrench. Sears had a sale awhile back and I got their micrometer torque wrench for $60. It wasn't clicking when I tried to check specs on my lug nuts so I tampered with it for a bit. I set it at it's lowest setting and tested it on a bolt on my rear bumper. It snapped the head off the bolt set at "20 ft/lbs".
 
#17 ·
I stripped the oil drain plug on my FJ today because my $9.99 1/2" drive Harbor Freight torque wrench didn't snap at 30 ft/lbs (and I kept turning thinking any second now... aaannnnnyy second now it will snap...). I got a new drain plug, set the wrench to 15 ft/lbs, and got my snap. Set the wrench to 30, did a quarter turn, no snap. So I took it to another bolt and gave a turn and snapped the head off the bolt (no snap on the wrench). it is easy to snap the head off a bolt when you have a long lever in your hand... My other wrench (bought in 1999) is a Craftsman 3/8 25-250 in/lbs, I was thinking of getting the matching 3/8 with 20-100'ish ft/lbs... What did you decided to go with (or have you replaced it yet?)

Thanks

Steve
 
#15 · (Edited)
the only problem I had with my high priced craftsman torque wrench was when it broke (totally my fault) and they told me it wasn't a lifetime replacement (the main reason I bought a craftsman) like the rest of the hand tool line. thus I got all 3 that harbor freight offered, 1/4 drive inch pound, 3/8 drive ft lb and 1/2 drive ft lb for less than what it would have cost to replace the one 3/8 drive craftsman I lost. :/
 
#16 ·
Like the others have said you need 2. Get an inch lb and a foot lb. I have 3 and use them all. A quarter inch drive inch lb for the real small stuff, a 3/8 drive inch lb and a half inch drive foot lb for the heavy stuff. :cheers:
 
#18 ·
My experience with Harbor Freight is that their tools are all cheap Chinese knock-offs. The bolts supplied are soft steel and strip; the fit of things that need to be assembled is very poor. They really seem to specialize in 'look-a-like' tools that don't stand up to more than one job, if you are lucky. I would never trust a Harbor Freight tool for any kind of accuracy. Harbor Freight torque wrench? No thanks!
 
#20 ·
Great price on the Snap-On. I was going to suggest eBay. Lost of mechanics/ techs forget that they need Christmas presents and dump tools cheap this month.

I have both a Husky and a CDI and had them tested on a Snap-On calibration gauge- the CDI was more accurate but both were within acceptable accuracy which is sufficient for my needs.
 
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