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Who makes a good torque wrench/ID10T error

4K views 23 replies 14 participants last post by  steved0x 
#1 · (Edited)
My $9.99 1/4" (Edit it is 1/2" drive not 1/4") drive Harbor Freight Torque wrench has (apparently) failed. I discovered this when I just stripped my new gold plug magnetic oil drain plug in my FJ Cruiser with the wrench set to 30 ft/lbs. So then I decided to test it on another bolt (that holds the hood latch on) and snapped it off. Luckily I had my original Toyota drain plug to use... And there is a second bolt holding on the hood latch... fun project for the day, try and get out the snapped bolt and replace it...

Note to self: If it feels wrong, STOP!

I am looking to get a new non-harbor freight torque wrench, any recommendations? The one I was replacing was 1/4 (edit 1/2 not 1/4) drive and went to over 100 ft/lbs. Maybe it is just finicky at the lower ranges? Maybe I should get a 3/8?

Thanks

Steve
 
#3 ·
I would have a 3/8 and a 1/2" for lighter and heavier torque jobs. Maybe even a 1/4 if you torque real small bolts.

For affordable pricing, I'd check out craftsman, cobalt, and Husky and find the one with the best reviews.




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#14 · (Edited)
I just checked, the Pittsburgh Harbor Freight is 1/2" drive, not 1/4" and goes from 10 ft/lbs to 150 ft/lbs. Also I have been leaving it at the last setting, which is usually 85-100 ft/lbs because putting lug nuts is usually the last thing we do. I realize now that is a no-no and that you are supposed to release the tension on them when you are done.

After I stripped the drain plug, I put the old one back in and decided to do it in stages, so I set the wrench to 15 ft/lbs, and got the click as I was tightening. Set the wrench to 30, and got no click after about 1/4 turn so I stopped. That is when I decided to put the wrench on another bolt and see if I could get the click, and that is when I snapped the bolt... sigh...

I have a craftsman micro torque, 3/8 that goes from 25 to 250 in/lbs, so I think I will get another 3/8 20-75/100 ft/lbs.

It was too easy to strip that drain plug and twist the bolt head off with that long handle (even though it was totally my fault and I learned a good lesson today). So all in all not a bad day; it could have been a lot worse if I had cracked the oil pan...

For affordable pricing, I'd check out craftsman, cobalt, and Husky and find the one with the best reviews.
Lowe's carries Cobalt (hmmm actually they carry Kobalt... I wonder if it is the same thing... price looks good and I used to have a socket set from them before it got stolenlost by my movers.)

I see several good Craftsman ones that are very reasonable as well.

Craftsman or NAPA would be the first two places I would look.
There is a NAPA right down the road, I will check there.

That is a good thread; thank you.

I don't want to rag on you because your message here is Very important....It sounds like you are using the torque wrench far to much ,so much that your not in touch with the knowledge or sense of when a bolt is snug, tight and over tight.... If you ever were to watch a mechanic he will only use a torque wrench where precision is required ie: torquing the bolts on a cylinder head. Never on a common bolt for general applications, and your right if it at all feels wrong Stop. Only buy Quality tools for precision work $10.00 for a torque wrench? This is going to be the worst tool in your box... Maybe spend time training your senses by leaving the torque wrench in the tool box or use it to check your work. Lucky for you no real damage like stripping or cracking your oil pan.
I would agree with most of this. I am new to working on vehicles and trying to use the right torques and settings so I don't screw it up, and make it less subjective. Using the $10.00 wrench was probably the biggest mistake. If someone were to ask me "what happens if you tighten a bolt and then use a long lever (like the 1/2" wrench) to keep turning it" the answer would be pretty obvious. But on my back under the truck holding the wrench up at an awkward angle and fixating on the thought "it will click any second, aaaannny second now..." but it doesn't feel like I am pushing very hard (due to the long lever)... then whoops :) Good lesson learned and luckily I didn't break anything other than a drain plug and a small bolt :)

I had it with P.O.S. torque wrenches so I pony'd up the bucks and picked up a pair of CDI Torque wrenches.

CDI Torque 2503MFRMH 1/2-Inch Drive Metal Handle Click Type Torque Wrench, Torque Range 30 to 250-Fo - Amazon.com

CDI Torque 752MFRMH 3/8-Inch Drive Metal Handle Click Type Torque Wrench, Torque Range 5 to 75-Foot - Amazon.com


These are quality tools made in the USA by SnapOn and will outlast your kids with proper care!
These look very nice!

Yes, the harbor freight torque wrenches are complete junk. Even brand new they hardly ever work and maybe not more than a couple of times.
I agree! I should not have expected precision or accuracy for $9.99... Well now at least I have a large 1/2" drive socket handle...

Dude what are you talking about?

1. The harbor freight 1/4 inch torque wrench is in inch pounds not foot pounds
2. It's only rated for 20 -200 inch pounds. That's about 1.5 - 16 foot pounds. It never would have snapped at 30 ft lbs.
3. If everything you say is accurate. The failure was more probably due to it being such a delicate instrument you probably weren't even feeling it "click" because you were expecting too much weight from it to begin with.
It is 1/2" drive not 1/4" my bad... :)

Thanks everybody, working on the FJ (and my son's Miata) is a new experience for me, greatly assisted by forum folks like yourselves. Thank you!

Steve
 
#6 · (Edited)
My $9.99 1/4" drive Harbor Freight Torque wrench has (apparently) failed. I discovered this when I just stripped my new gold plug magnetic oil drain plug in my FJ Cruiser with the wrench set to 30 ft/lbs. So then I decided to test it on another bolt (that holds the hood latch on) and snapped it off. Luckily I had my original Toyota drain plug to use... And there is a second bolt holding on the hood latch... fun project for the day, try and get out the snapped bolt and replace it...

Note to self: If it feels wrong, STOP!

I am looking to get a new non-harbor freight torque wrench, any recommendations? The one I was replacing was 1/4 drive and went to over 100 ft/lbs. Maybe it is just finicky at the lower ranges? Maybe I should get a 3/8?

Thanks

Steve
I don't want to rag on you because your message here is Very important....It sounds like you are using the torque wrench far to much ,so much that your not in touch with the knowledge or sense of when a bolt is snug, tight and over tight.... If you ever were to watch a mechanic he will only use a torque wrench where precision is required ie: torquing the bolts on a cylinder head. Never on a common bolt for general applications, and your right if it at all feels wrong Stop. Only buy Quality tools for precision work $10.00 for a torque wrench? This is going to be the worst tool in your box... Maybe spend time training your senses by leaving the torque wrench in the tool box or use it to check your work. Lucky for you no real damage like stripping or cracking your oil pan.
 
#7 ·
I am a diesal engone technician and my most valuable tools are my torque wrenches. When precision is key dont skimp. For the weekend installer / home garage mechanic you cant go wrong with craftsman. For me its snap-on and matco.....but this is my living. And as stated already if it feels wrong stop. Best of luck on your projects.
Bill

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#12 ·
I have snap on from a 1/4"driver that goes down to 5 inch pounds to 1" multipliers, torque angle gauges, all kinds.
Just get a quality and piece. Maybe compare it with another every so often.
I never use them as a ratchet or breaker bar or anything, just the final torque.
No matter what you get, you want to make sure that your required torque is near center scale. Any wrench will be most accurate there. The top and bottom end have s greater tolerance.

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#13 ·
Dude what are you talking about?

1. The harbor freight 1/4 inch torque wrench is in inch pounds not foot pounds
2. It's only rated for 20 -200 inch pounds. That's about 1.5 - 16 foot pounds. It never would have snapped at 30 ft lbs.
3. If everything you say is accurate. The failure was more probably due to it being such a delicate instrument you probably weren't even feeling it "click" because you were expecting too much weight from it to begin with.
 
#17 ·
I've got four torque wrenches. There is the 1/2 drive 200 ft/lb clicker, a 3/8 drive 150 ft/lb clicker (very handy for oil drain plugs), a 3/8 drive 150 in/lb dial gauge type and a 1/2 drive 200 ft/lb dial gauge type (not one I use very much).

The first three are all from Snap-On. They were expensive, but I use them a lot and they've been very reliable. I haven't twisted off any bolts. The last one is a Craftsman. The clickers I use for most things on the FJ like wheels and big bolts. The other 2 dial types are for very accurate fine torquing when assembling precision or delicate components, especially the in/lb dial type one. Any clicker type torque wrench should be kept clean and set to it's lowest setting when stored.
 
#19 ·
Why can't I delete from the phone app???
 
#20 ·
I love my Craftsman click type. The fancy ones just have more parts to break. :cheers:
 
#22 ·
I ended up getting the Kobalt 3/8 drive from Lowe's; I have had good luck with them in the past and it has a supposed lifetime no hassle warranty. if I register it, it will even be replaced if lost or stolen (which would have been nice to have for my Kobalt socket set which was "lost" by my movers along with my Dewalt power tools... sigh...

Thanks

Steve
 
#23 ·
That is what I meant :lol: Kobalt with a K!

Kobalt stuff seems nice like my shovel and a few wrenches.

Craftsman torque wrenches don't have a lifetime warranty like that, they lessened warranty coverage to only include select higher end wrenches and no torque wrenches from what I understand.


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