StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY) - Page 32 - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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post #311 of 400 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 02:41 PM
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Re: StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY)

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Sandman14 previously said: View Post
Zeus...did you use OEM 4Runner parts then, or aftermarket? If you stated it above, my apologies...I read this thread in its entirety over the past few days and made notes but not who made the posts...
<EDIT>

Was wrong, found it. all from Rock Auto:

May 30, 2016

POWER STOP K587336 (K5873-36) Rotor & Brake Pad Kit $ 196.79

CENTRIC 95044007 (950.44007) Hydraulic Hose $ 32.84 x 2

CENTRIC 14144288 (141.44288) Caliper $ 132.99
CENTRIC 14144287 (141.44287) Caliper $ 132.99

Shipping DHL SmartMail Expedited, Ground $ 42.96
Order Total $ 538.57

Don't remember where I sourced the rest of the brake lines, but replace all down stream of the master cylinder.

Unlike others, all parts were complete, and appeared to be of good quality. 2 years ago, daily driver, no problems.
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post #312 of 400 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 04:41 PM
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Re: StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY)

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Sandman14 previously said: View Post
For the FJ?...or another vehicle...? I noted that the Brembo's for the FJ were massive and just won't fit on my new 17s...too bad...
They are replacements for the FJ - rotors and pads only. Not sure if the Tire can get Brembo calipers.

After Monday and Tuesday even the calender says WTF


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post #313 of 400 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 09:07 AM
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Re: StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY)

Update:

Got all of the new studs cut and installed. My chamfering job on the ends could have been better, but it's good enough. A few threads here said there was only about 3/8 of an inch of thread engagement with the stock studs...I stuffed a bunch of anti-seize into one of the nuts and bolted it up and that seems about right to me. Not a lot of threads on there. The stock studs were 1.79" and the new ones I cut to approximately 2.43...my limited metal work skills mean there's a bit of variation there though!!

Moved to the rears and realized that the parking brake had to come apart if I wanted to replace the studs. Plenty of meat left on the stock parking brake but I said the hell with it...the studs were expensive and I'm sure some of the parking brake components need grease at this point.

I had forgotten that in the rear the stoptech BBK requires you to trim the stock caliper bracket. It wasn't hard, but I didn't cut enough on the first one so I wound up sitting there with the grinding wheel forever. Second one went a little quicker. REALLY hoping that the metalwork portion of this project is done. I am tired of burning hot metal and metal dust. Not exactly my specialty either but I got through it.

Ran out of parts to finish the rear (need new parking brake hardware) so I decided to tackle the lines which lead from the body to the rear axle. Massive corosion. Really hard to get those apart. I should really figure out what the threads on the hard lines are and run a die up them. Going to slather all the clips with anti-seize when I reassemble.

As a note, the SOS kit comes with 4 brake lines, not 6, so I used the two from the Man-a-fre kit I ordered before I decided to do the BBK. If anyone wants to buy a set of 4 man-a-fre lines with the clips, copper washhers, etc. let me know.

While I was cutting the caliper brackets down I nicked the hard line with the angle grinder. I just replaced the same hard line when I nicked it last year while painting rust. Most normal people would probably just leave it, it's nothing, but I'm just going to replace it so...more parts.

Waiting for new skids to arrive and also need to change gear oil/power steering/etc. while it's up in the air. It would be nice to finish this next weekend but I have a feeling it may drag on.

When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. -HST

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post #314 of 400 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 09:16 AM
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Re: StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY)

2 things:

1) Never "stuff" anti seize into nut you could end up locking the nut on the thread, always got the threads on the bolt.

2) torque should be reduced accordingly (Anti Seize MFG specs) when used on a fastener where the original torque values are calculated with out anti seize.
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post #315 of 400 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 11:20 AM
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Re: StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY)

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mikey previously said: View Post
2 things:

1) Never "stuff" anti seize into nut you could end up locking the nut on the thread, always got the threads on the bolt.
Right, I did that to find out how far the nut was going on to the lug - i.e. as a marker. Didn't torque it very tight.

When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. -HST
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post #316 of 400 (permalink) Old 07-03-2018, 11:52 AM
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Re: StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY)

Hey everyone,
Here's the latest update on my new calipers from CARiD... perfect.

I want to clarify a point of mis-information in my earlier posts... there's no front mounting brackets needed for the calipers. I had it in my mind that there were because of "stock" photos on the vendor's website... that's my ignorance. Apologies. With that being said, the front calipers from Rock Auto still came with a bent bleeder screw and then with missing hardware so they had to go back regardless.

Anyway, all of the new calipers look great and include everything needed for install. The boxes that came in from CARiD have actual Power Stop branding and inspected-by stickers this time too. The boxes were also delivered in much better condition.

I'm very happy with using CARiD... even though it appears that everything shipped directly from Power Stop again like the last 2 times. At least someone got it correct this time around. Installation is coming soon!

The TRD decals came from IMPORTequipment fyi... we shall see how long they last with the heat and cleanings.
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post #317 of 400 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 09:21 AM
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Re: StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY)

So the calipers are finally installed... but the job isn't done

All of the 5th Gen calipers and rotors fit perfectly on the 2010 FJ. The thread pitch on the hard lines > SS flex lines > calipers all matched up perfectly. Only issue is that I had a few hard lines that would not crack free so I couldn't get the SS flex lines installed at the passenger front and rear corners. I have new hard lines (tubes as Toyota parts calls them) on order so I can destroy the old ones getting them out.

Here's my installation call-outs:

1) We simply trimmed the 16in dust shields in front with a body saw... super easy job. We started to bend them out of the way but quickly realized that cutting them would alleviate any chance of rubbing
2) Have some extra hard lines (tubes as Toyota calls them) on order in case you start rounding the 10mm heads. PB Buster, line wrenches and slight rapping with a hammer couldn't free mine and they started to round.
3) If you've followed my last posts you'll know that this is the 3rd round of Power Stop calipers I ordered due to defective/missing small parts on the last 2 orders. Well, as we bled the rear calipers both bleeder screws leaked fluid from the nipple after being tightened down... brand new calipers once again. We attempted to re-seat them a few times before having to pull the old bleeder screws from both OEM rear calipers and installing them in the new ones. Problem solved though.

Initial driving impressions (after 5 miles...ha)

1) I went with TRD pads and bed them in according to the install instructions (10 stops from 60-5mph)
2) Pedal feel is great. While the pedal stroke might engage a bit further down now, I am very hard-pressed to say this is problematic. If someone else got into my truck to drive it there'd be zero red-flags or concerns. The pedal firms up quickly after the initial pedal thrown and the modulation is the same if not better than the stock FJ brakes. I honestly will completely forget about the "old" pedal feel/stroke after driving the FJ during the next month.

Overall, I can't wait to get into the mountain roads and see how this upgrade performs on roads where I've noticed the brakes heating up in the past.
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post #318 of 400 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 09:23 AM
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Re: StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY)

I gave up on trying to put the parking brakes back together after disassembling them to install the new studs in the rear...I'm going to bring it to the dealer and have them deal with it as well as a few other small things I'm not set up to do. It just wasn't worth the INCREDIBLE AMOUNT of frustration.

I was hoping to give the truck a little test drive before I go away for the weekend but 3 pints of brake fluid later it's still coming out milky with bubbles from three of the new calipers. The new calipers are apparently pretty thirsty!

4 more pints on the way from Amsoil. I won't need that much but its only 30 bucks and I don't want to have to wait for a third order of the stuff if I run out. Hopefully I will get to test out the new binders next week!

When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. -HST

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post #319 of 400 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 09:23 AM
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Re: StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY)

Errrrmaaahhhhgerrrrrrd, what a ****ing journey this was. I finished in time for my two week vacation of oversand driving and boat pulling, but it was close. Time to post my final impressions. Sorry for being a little off topic in this thread and this post, but I like to try and put everything I can out there for people searching and I don't want to make another post for the breather and studs.

StopTech Big Brake Kit from SOS Performance

SOS - Great company to deal with. Very helpful when I had questions, worked with me to get the parts to me as fast as possible. I wouldn't hesitate for even a second to deal with them again.

SOS StopTech Brake Kit - Fantastic kit. The brackets that SOS makes are very, very nice. The instructions are good and, honestly, dealing with the installation of the brake kit was BY FAR the easiest part of my two month nightmare. Most of my working on cars has been bolting and unbolting, but the metal-slicing required by this kit was not difficult. The caliper shields are trivial to cut with an angle grinder. Cutting the rear caliper bracket was more difficult but, honestly, with the way everything is situated it's way easier to cut too little than too much. SOS gives you a template for doing this, which I forgot about and didn't use. When I did the second one I cut a lot more out of the bracket initially but still had some grinding to do to get it all the way there. I've used an angle grinder before but probably not for anything of this magnitude, so I wouldn't be deterred by this if you're not a metalworking expert.

The kit only gives you 4 lines and does not include the frame-to-rear-axle lines. The rear lines were also cut very short and I wound up using one man-a-fre line on one side. The lines seemed to be very well made, though.

StopTech Brakes - The brakes are very good. To be honest - for off roading or driving alone I think the cost may not be worth it. If you are pulling a trailer, especially with 33" tires and above, now you're getting into the zone where this kit starts to make a lot of sense. This was the furthest I have driven with my boat and stopping is a lot less sketchy than it used to be. With the stock brakes, it just never felt like there was enough power and fade resistance to be confident. Now there definitely is.

The pedal is not as firm as I was expecting, but I believe this is my fault. See recommendations. It has also gotten a lot better as the brakes have gotten some miles on them.

The design of the calipers is beautiful. It was so gratifying not to put the crappy, easily binding rear calipers back in the car...or even the front calipers with their absolutely ridiculous guaranteed-to-rust-in-place pad pins. It's just a way WAY better design.

Recommendations:

1.) Do not, under any circumstances, allow the master cylinder to empty out completely. Obvious to some, but I had just never had a brake job where I needed to have the lines disconnected for more than a couple minutes. I bled the brakes, I did the procedure in the manual (letting the pump run out, pumping the pedal 20+ times, etc.), but I still couldn't get them to firm up. I brought it to the dealer to bleed by unlocking the ABS using the, "intelligent tester" tool, but I'm still not 100% sure all of the air is out of the system. At some point I will probably bleed them again.

2.) I went out and did hard stops to bed the brakes, but I think they are still improving as they break in. It may be that the brakes are so big for the truck that you need to do a more intense bedding process. As we drove around during vacation, the pedal definitely firmed up even more.

3.) I contacted SOS about the bleed procedure for the dual bleed screw calipers and the response was, "I typically do the passenger side outside bleeder first and work my way back to the left side and then repeat two more times"

4.) Since no one has a flare nut torque wrench, I recommend tightening the lines, "a little tighter than you think". I tend to overtighten so I went easy on them, but had a ****load of leaks. Once I went around and gave them another unk! of tightness they were good to go.

5.) It's obvious (please tell me it's obvious to you) that you need good safety glasses when grinding, but I strongly recommend hearing protection and a mask/respirator as well. You're going to be at this for a while and the grinder is loud and metal dust tastes like ****.

ARP Wheel Studs

These are great and I am definitely happy I did them now that I realized how few threads were actually engaged on the stock studs. If I had it to do again, I would strongly consider buying ultra-deep spline nuts and just leaving them the length that they came. Cutting them down and chamfering them was a pain in the ass, not really in my wheelhouse, and you would never notice the super deep lugs in the wheels I have.

Parking Brake

Wow, just wow. The dealer called me to tell me the parking brake cable was seized. I wound up going by there because, while I trust this dealer, it just didn't seem seized to me when I took it apart. The cable moved but, as it turns out, it would not extend all the way. Now that it's been replaced, I can definitely feel the difference in the parking brake lever.

I'm trying to use the parking brake a lot more to keep it from seizing again, and I could not be more disappointed in how awful it is. I've driven off with it still engaged several times and barely even noticed. I don't know that I can say I wouldn't have it repaired again, because it just felt sketchy having nothing, but it certainly wasn't even remotely worth the titanic amount of cash that I paid to have it fixed by the dealer. My advice is to leave it alone unless you REALLY REALLY want to do the rear wheel studs. If you do take it apart, I would honestly find the cheapest shop I could to put it back together and then just retorque the bolts on the calipers to make sure that part was done right.

The dealer also discovered my axle seals were leaking, which could have been due to the stock diff breathers and some water I hit last year offroading. I ordered and installed the ARB breather kit in the jack/tools space. I only did the rears, but should probably do the fronts at some point.

Additional stuff I needed or ordered and didn't need:

Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud installer - doesn't fit between stud and hub, not worth it. Just use a bunch of washers but make sure 1.) either the washers fit between the stud and hub, or you cut a notch in them so they fit and don't get jammed in there and 2.) Make sure you use enough washers so you don't ruin your wheel lug, you can easily screw right through the top of the lug.

Legris Composite 3122 Metric 04 53 - This place HopeDirect got me these parts insanely quickly. This is the piece that adapts the 8mm ARB breather kit tube to the 4mm e-locker tube. https://www.hopedirect.com/product/3...RoCMKwQAvD_BwE

Legris Composite 3106 Metric 04 08 - It's not obvious from the picture on the site or the thread I found this in, but this is not just a coupler - it is a reducer from the 8mm ARB tube to the 4mm tube that the elocker uses. You can plug the 3122 above right into this. https://www.hopedirect.com/products?...nect-fittings/

New clips for the rear fender liner - I destroyed these tying to run the ARB tubing a different way. These work perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can see where I pounded the end of the pad retention pin with a punch so that it's now flared instead of tapered. Horrible design for anywhere there is road salt.



Look at the wear on my old passenger rear brake pad. Awful.



I used anti-seize to mark how much of the threads were engaged on the stock studs. Are you comfortable with this? I'm certainly not.



This image speaks for itself.







Sorry for the ****ty phone picture. FJ pulling my boat out of the Pamet River after a long trip with much more confident braking.


When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. -HST

Last edited by endus; 08-21-2018 at 09:59 AM.
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post #320 of 400 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 09:54 AM
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Re: StopTech true BIG Brake Kit for 400$ (DIY)

Just wanted to provide an update since my last post in July 2018 when I performed this upgrade.

The 4Runner brake upgrade has been terrific! As a reminder I went with 4Runner calipers and rotors at all four corners as well as added SS brake lines and Russel Speed Bleeders at all calipers (so so so helpful for brake bleeds and no leaks). I've had no sticking issues and stopping power with the TRD pads and Centric rotors has been pulse free with a "normal" amount of brake dust (if that's a concern). The pedal feel still has the initial, slightly longer throw, but it's a non-concern with me and hasn't affected stopping power.

I've run a few camping trips thru the CO Rockies with roughly an extra 400lb of gear and 250lb of RTT and Awning combo (as well as rolling on 34's with full armor/bumpers/winch/dual battery/etc... you get the point, it's a heavy rig) and can say that I've not yet once smelled brake pads or experienced any fade. I'm extremely happy with the upgrade and braking confidence.

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