I haven't seen a parking brake shoe replacement tutorial for the FJ so here goes.
Pray to the automotive gods above that you don't have to do this because it's a royal pain in the butt! >
Parts List: I bought everything at Autozone for ease of convenience:
Duralast Brake shoes Part #850 $34.99
Duralast Brake hardware kit part #17395 $19.99
Brake cleaner
Tool list:
17mm socket to remove the rear brake calipers
Long needle nose pliers
Flathead screwdriver
Bar clamp
Short prybar
Hammer
short 1/2" socket extension
Extra set of hands to help reinstalling the retainer cups (very helpful but not needed)
Before we start tearing everything apart here's a diagram of the rear brake assembly courtesy of perpetualjon from Toyotanation.com.
He goes into complete detail on a Sequoia here: Rear Parking/Emergency Brake Shoe Replacement Instructions - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
We obviously need to block the front tires, jack up the car, remove the wheels, and release the emergency brake lever.
The rear brake calipers are held on by a pair of 17mm bolts, takes those off and slide off the brake caliper. Rotate the axle so that the access hole is at the 6 o'clock position and you can see the star wheel. Release the tension on the star wheel so that you can slide the rotor off the hub.
Again image courtesy of perpetualjon
Once I took off the rotor I was presented with a badly worn brake shoe due to a broken retaining spring.
Use a flat head screw driver and/or pliers to remove the upper most shoe retention spring. Rotate the axle again so that the access hole is inline with the brake shoe retainer cup.
Use a pair of thin long needle nose pliers and depress the spring cup down to relieve the spring tension, then rotate the cup 90 degrees so you can release the spring cup.
Once the brake shoe is free remove the emergency brake line and you should have a brake shoe that looks like this with the emergency brake lever attached.
As you can see here my brake shoe was badly worn and cracked from dragging on the rotor all of the time.
Pry off the horse shoe shaped retainer from the old brake shoe and remove the emergency brake lever.
When I took off my old shoe....bits and pieces of the old retainer spring fell out and here is what it looks like compared to a new spring. LOL
The stud that is pressed into the old brake shoe needs to be reused so I used a hammer and a 1/2" extension to bang out the stud. Once removed you should be left with a short stud looking like this:
Grab your new bag of brake hardware and arrange the parts so that it's clearly visible as to where they go.
Hammer the stud back into the new shoe and reinstall the emergency brake level along with the new shim and horse shoe retainer.
Before reassembly be sure to spray down the brake assembly to remove any brake dust residue. Reattach the emergency brake cable on to the lever and install the upper most retainer spring. Remove the old spring retainer pin and install the new one along with the retainer cup with a leg attached. At this point I found it easiest to install the spring and top cup together as one unit behind the axle. Once all of the parts are aligned use the bar clamp to pull back the brake shoe so that you have enough room on the retainer pin to install the retainer cup and use the pry bar to keep tension on the retainer pin as you rotate the retainer cup with your needle nose pliers.
This is the MOST difficult part of the installation and once you get one brake shoe done, the other's will be much easier to do since you've over come the learning curve. The final juggling act looks like this:
Repeat the same steps for the other brake shoe and take note of how the shoe strut and spring are installed....because it can only go one way. Once the other shoe is installed just insert the star wheel into the slot and reinstall the anchor spring and you're DONE! Repeat the process on the other side and be sure to torque your caliper bolts and lug nuts to spec.
One a side note: there was very little wear on my OEM brake shoes even though I had 160,000 miles on them. The only reason I needed to swap them out was due to the broken retainer spring. With my driving style I would assume that I would have gotten 300,000 EASILY on the OEM brake shoes.
Good luck and I hope this tutorial has been helpful!
-B
Pray to the automotive gods above that you don't have to do this because it's a royal pain in the butt! >
Parts List: I bought everything at Autozone for ease of convenience:
Duralast Brake shoes Part #850 $34.99
Duralast Brake hardware kit part #17395 $19.99
Brake cleaner
Tool list:
17mm socket to remove the rear brake calipers
Long needle nose pliers
Flathead screwdriver
Bar clamp
Short prybar
Hammer
short 1/2" socket extension
Extra set of hands to help reinstalling the retainer cups (very helpful but not needed)
Before we start tearing everything apart here's a diagram of the rear brake assembly courtesy of perpetualjon from Toyotanation.com.
He goes into complete detail on a Sequoia here: Rear Parking/Emergency Brake Shoe Replacement Instructions - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
We obviously need to block the front tires, jack up the car, remove the wheels, and release the emergency brake lever.
The rear brake calipers are held on by a pair of 17mm bolts, takes those off and slide off the brake caliper. Rotate the axle so that the access hole is at the 6 o'clock position and you can see the star wheel. Release the tension on the star wheel so that you can slide the rotor off the hub.
Again image courtesy of perpetualjon
Once I took off the rotor I was presented with a badly worn brake shoe due to a broken retaining spring.
Use a flat head screw driver and/or pliers to remove the upper most shoe retention spring. Rotate the axle again so that the access hole is inline with the brake shoe retainer cup.
Use a pair of thin long needle nose pliers and depress the spring cup down to relieve the spring tension, then rotate the cup 90 degrees so you can release the spring cup.
Once the brake shoe is free remove the emergency brake line and you should have a brake shoe that looks like this with the emergency brake lever attached.
As you can see here my brake shoe was badly worn and cracked from dragging on the rotor all of the time.
Pry off the horse shoe shaped retainer from the old brake shoe and remove the emergency brake lever.
When I took off my old shoe....bits and pieces of the old retainer spring fell out and here is what it looks like compared to a new spring. LOL
The stud that is pressed into the old brake shoe needs to be reused so I used a hammer and a 1/2" extension to bang out the stud. Once removed you should be left with a short stud looking like this:
Grab your new bag of brake hardware and arrange the parts so that it's clearly visible as to where they go.
Hammer the stud back into the new shoe and reinstall the emergency brake level along with the new shim and horse shoe retainer.
Before reassembly be sure to spray down the brake assembly to remove any brake dust residue. Reattach the emergency brake cable on to the lever and install the upper most retainer spring. Remove the old spring retainer pin and install the new one along with the retainer cup with a leg attached. At this point I found it easiest to install the spring and top cup together as one unit behind the axle. Once all of the parts are aligned use the bar clamp to pull back the brake shoe so that you have enough room on the retainer pin to install the retainer cup and use the pry bar to keep tension on the retainer pin as you rotate the retainer cup with your needle nose pliers.
This is the MOST difficult part of the installation and once you get one brake shoe done, the other's will be much easier to do since you've over come the learning curve. The final juggling act looks like this:
Repeat the same steps for the other brake shoe and take note of how the shoe strut and spring are installed....because it can only go one way. Once the other shoe is installed just insert the star wheel into the slot and reinstall the anchor spring and you're DONE! Repeat the process on the other side and be sure to torque your caliper bolts and lug nuts to spec.
One a side note: there was very little wear on my OEM brake shoes even though I had 160,000 miles on them. The only reason I needed to swap them out was due to the broken retainer spring. With my driving style I would assume that I would have gotten 300,000 EASILY on the OEM brake shoes.
Good luck and I hope this tutorial has been helpful!
-B