Some updating since last autumn:
I bought a Sheriff skid plate (made of 3 mm steel for Land Cruiser 120 series) and bent it a little + fabricated a mounting plate for getting it mounted to the RC crossmember:
And I fabricated a guard plate for the CNG tank too (made of 2 mm Stainless Steel):
I wanted to get as much as possible light of my stock headlights. I changed the bulbs to GE Megalight Ultra H4 +120, but the change is just noticeable, maybe 20%, not 120%.
Then I found my old Light Booster set for H7+H7 lights,
which I was used before in my wife´s ex-Toyota Avensis with good results, which I modified to fit to H4-bulb socket by using these (ceramic H4-sockets from ebay
The modified booster:
Installed at driver´s side:
The light booster is a hacker power supply which gives 14,65V in spite of what is the battery voltage. Normally it gave 13,6V (right side) to 13,7V (left side) to the bulb when engine is running, now 1V more and this is what your eyes can really notice.
The DRLs are connected of, they would work with a full voltage after this.
And the result, low beam:
The next mod was speedometer which shows too little. The solution I was used before too, is Jaycar MKII Speedo Corrector. This was a DIY kit, I had to solder it by myself (took about hour).
-pull the box out (it is quite tight, start from the edge closest the windscreen)
-remove the plug of the speedometer (left side plug)
-find the speed sensor signal wire (it´s red/yellow in M/T, gray/red in A/T)
-cut it, put some shrink tubing to the both ends
-solder the input out wire of the box to the plug side of the cutted wire
-solder the input in wire of the box to the other side of the cutted wire
-heat the shrink tubings
-peel off a little insulation of the +12V ignition wire (red-blue)
-solder the +12V wire of the box to it
-peel off a little insulation of the earth wire (white-black)
-solder the earth wire of the box to it
-tape the both solders
-follow the instructions for the calibration (jumpers setted to LK2 and LK3 works)
And it works perfectly. Now I can adjust it just how I want to. And the ScanGaugeII get the right signal too, before I had +10% in it, now I had to change it back to 0%.
The box fit nicely behind the speedometer.
I have had the Magnaflow 12586 muffler waiting for installation almost a year, so now was time for it. Nice and quiet sound, not much difference in stock muffler.
Stock vs. Magnaflow:
And welded together. I made the mounting rods of 10 mm stainless steel rod and the flange is made of stainless steel too:
Then I installed German made Nolden LED
black optic DRL-leds:
They fit nicely behind the bumper grill:
The DRLs are very bright when on (bulbs are 2.5W Philips Rebel DS56), and almost unnoticeable when off (the picture can´t tell you right about the light brightness):
Hella Comet 200 Xenon -highbeams are installed too:
The audio system is got some improvement too. I made a subwoofer box of MDF (still a little under progress), the 10" element is Pioneer TS-SW2501S4:
I was a little concerned about the valves because of CNG (which not lubricate the valves at all and the heat of combustion is higher), one aussie guy told about a LPG conversion installation this way:
DONT FU***NG DO IT!!!!!!!!!!
I have done many heads on 1grfe motors that have gas fitted to them, they are a **** to do as well because the motor has to come out.
It seems that the valves in them are no good for gas.
So, I ordered V-Lube Electronic Valve Saver Kit
. It feeds blue fluid to the manifold about 200 ml/1000 miles and should protect the valves.
I welded an extra bracket to the power steering bottle holder for the V-Lube bottle:
I changed the plugs to Denso IKH22 -iridium plugs
, which have smaller gap (0.8 mm instead of stock 1.1 mm) which is better for CNG use.
And here is a current look (auxiliary lights missing) at spring 2013:
Next mod at Nov/2013 was Recaro Ergomed ES SAB
-seats, which I found from eBay.de. Leather and alcantara, full electric, airbag, heater, ventilation, everything but no massage, I love them:
First thing was to separate original seats from their frame. There was quite a lot electronic parts under the passenger seat. I cut the airbag wire, because I didn't manage to find adapter between the Toyota plug and Recaro (VW/Audi) plug, and solder them later to the VW/Audi plug´s wires.
Then I had to fabricate some adapters between Recaro mounting and oem seat frame. I used 60x30x3 mm L-profile steel and 2x5 mm thick 25 mm washers for M8 bolt as spacer, because the bolt pattern was exactly same width than oem seat frame. Bolts are 10.9 grade.
Few hours later:
And for a final touch, Recaro-stickers from eBay:
Because the passenger weight sensors do not exists any more, I ordered this thing from Metaltech 4x4:
Picture from underneath:
This is how they look installed. Airbags works fine, they have the exactly same resistance (2.3Ω) than in the oem seat airbags.
Love these seats!
I ordered Clazzio seat cover for the rear seat only, it match very well to the front seat:
Build-up story with pictures continues here: ----->>