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WHOOP '12 Build

52K views 213 replies 31 participants last post by  football751 
#1 · (Edited)
Current:




So after owning my FJ for just shy of 5 years I decided it was time to make a build thread. It's a work in progress, so picture and additional details will follow.

More Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/blinn2012/sets/

Factory:
2007 Black Cherry Automatic 4x4
Upgrade Package 2
TRD Cold Air Intake
TRD Exhaust (removed)
Window Tint
Roof Rack

Suspension:
ICON 2.5" Remote Reservoir Extended Travel Coilovers with CDC Valves
ICON 700 lb Springs
Camburg 1.25" Uniball UCAs
Total Chaos Race Series Stock Length LCAs
Total Chaos Spindle Gussets
Total Chaos Upper Coil Bucket Tower Gussets
Total Chaos Cam Tab Gussets
Wheeler's Off-Road SuperBump Bump Stops
Metal-Tech Long Travel Rear Suspension
ICON 2.5" Remote Reservoir LT Rear Shocks with CDC Valves
Metal-Tech Offset Rear Lower Links
RESZ Fab Offset Rear Upper Links
ICON Rear Adjustable Track Bar
Front Sway Bar Disconnects
No Rear Sway Bar
ICON 2.5" Extended Travel Coilovers (removed)
Light Racing UCAs (removed)
The TOY Outfitters Rear Lower Links (removed)
The TOY Outfitters Rear Upper Links (removed)
Red Line Land Cruisers Rear Upper Links (removed)

Engine Performance:
TRD Supercharger
URD SuperGrip Pulley
URD UCON EMS
Level10 Bulletproof Torque Converter
Level10 Bulletproof Transmission
Doug Thorley Long-Tube Headers (New December 2016)
URD Off-Road Y-Pipe (New December 2016)
URD Mark3 Exhaust (New December 2016)
SOS Performance TR.340.6TA Big Brake Kit (New November 2017)
Rear Factory E-Locker (removed)
URD Spec-U Exhaust System (removed)
TRD High Performance Brake Pads (removed)

Axles & Armor:
4.56 Gears
RockJock60 Rear Axle
Front & Rear ARB Air Lockers
Full Set of Ricochet Skids w/ Front HD Skid
Rocktek Front Link Armor
Trail-Gear Rock Sliders
Rocktek Rear Link Armor (removed)
Rocktek Rear Shock Armor (removed)
Boztec Rear Diff Skid (removed)

Bumpers:
Metal-Tech Front Winch Bumper
Titan TW12S 12,000 lb Synthetic Winch
The TOY Outfitters Rear Swingout Bumper

Wheels:
Interco Birddog 17x9 4.5" BS Wheels
Goodyear Wrangler MT/R with Kevlar 315/70R17s
Spidertrax Wheel Spacers (Front Only)
Stock 17" Alloys (removed)
BFG Mud-Terrain KM2 255/80R17s (removed)
Goodyear Wrangler MT/R with Kevlar 35x12.50R17s (removed)

Stereo:
Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX Radio
Infinity Reference 9633cf Door Speakers
Infinity Reference 3032cf Dash and Rear Pillar Speakers
JBL GTO804 8" Subwoofer
Stock Subwoofer Enclosure
Kenwood KAC-1502S Stereo Amp (Bridged for Subwoofer)
Metra Axxess Steering Wheel Controller

Miscellaneous:
eBay Snorkel
Volant PowerCore Filter (New December 2016)
ARB High-Output Compressor
Springtail/MPAC Side HD Rack
Boztec CB Antenna Mount
Firestick Firefly 3' Antenna
Midland 75-822 Handheld CB
BajaRack Stock Roof Rack Drop-In Basket
ARB 50 qt Fridge
Odyssey 31M-PC2150T-M Battery
FJNewb's SCUBA Mod

Near-Term/In-Progress Mods:
URD 7th Injector Kit
Smaller Supercharger Pulley
Boost & Other Gauges

Future Mods (Wish List):
PRP Seats
New Transfer Case
Upgraded Stereo





 
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#84 ·
Well I took it to get aligned today and they were able to bring the driver's side caster up to 3.5 and the passenger to 3.4, but I still have rubbing on the drivers side. Anyone else with 35" MT/Rs have this bad of a rubbing issue? As you can see in the picture my body mount is chopped pretty aggressively, but it looks like I'll need to take off that front corner even more in order to get rid of the rub. May be time to think about welding a plate on to increase it's structural integrity, though considering it's just a body mount I think it'll still be fine. Thoughts anyone?
 
#86 ·
That's what I like to hear, be more aggressive :rocker: Do you have any pictures of your BMC, or are any posted in your build thread? I figure I need to go pretty deep to ensure they don't rub during compression on the trail.
 
#88 ·
Did some more work on the FJ this past weekend in preparation for Jambo.

Finished installing my 1" body lift. Very easy install and I like the look it gives the truck. Gaps at the front and rear bumpers are noticeable, but they don't bother me since it's function over form for me when it comes to my FJ. One thing that surprised me was how corroded my stock body mount bolts were. Not sure how they got so wet, but some of them were pretty bad.



Also got my new MT off-set lower links installed. These things are beefy! My TOY Outfitter links were great, but I like that the MT links won't contact the axle tube. I barely had to adjust them to make them match the stock length, not sure why they offer so much adjustment or what the advantage is. Here are some shots comparing the MT and TOY links.



The poly bushings and metal sleeve are much larger in the MT links.





I also repainted and reinstalled my sliders, diff skid, and lower link skids. Luckily there aren't as many rocks to scrape off the fresh paint at Gilmer as at HF :lol:

I still have a full plate ahead of me this week before I leave for Jambo. I need to replace the diff oil, redo my BMC (for the 35" tires), install 1 Rocktek front lower link skid, reinstall my front bash skid plate, and install my new rear ICON shocks if they show up this week.
 
#90 ·
Redid my BMC yesterday. Still not sure the passenger side is aggressive enough, we'll see at Jambo. It doesn't rub on the street any more at least. This picture is of the driver's side.


Also a very effective, but probably not OSHA approved, way to move your axle to line up the lower link if you're off by a significant amount.


I also got my Ricochet HD bash plate reinstalled and finally finished up my Rocktek front lower link armor install. It's amazing how quiet going over bumps is now that I don't have the Outrider armor, and I have the Rocktek attached through the frame at the front :rocker: Ready to get packed up tonight and head to Jambo tomorrow.
 
#94 ·
Haha I've used those before but all I have are some weak-a$$ ratchet straps. Good for moving the axle an inch, but I wasn't thinking and took both lower links off then started jacking the axle to get the OME trim spacer I bought installed on the driver's side. I was off by WAY more than an inch :lol:

Yeah that's what I plan to do, just open up where that angle is already cut and not go any further back toward the frame.

I haven't tried the window yet with the new tires, but now that you mention it I'll give it a shot when I get home. Hadn't even thought about it.
 
#96 ·
Had a great time at Jambo last weekend, wheeling with old friends and meeting new people. No major damage done to the truck, which was goood as I did some knarly trails. The 35s rub like a SOB, going to have to cut some plastic and flatten the pinch weld. I bought Bushwackers, but after seeing OC's rig with and without them I may just remove the stock flares and go naked. I'll post up some pictures after I remove them. I'll also post some pictures from the weekend later today or tomorrow.

Only issues so far is my alignment is waaaaaay off, this is what my steering wheel looks like when I'm driving straight.


One issue I do have is some lights on the dash board (I'm in 2WD). Haven't searched around to see what it might be, or disconnected the battery yet to see if they'll disappear on their own. Anyone experienced this before and know the answer, before I start scouring the forums?
 
#98 ·
Hmm, I'll have to look in to that.

And a solution, as in you could wheel without ruining your alignment, or as in you could straighten back out yourself? Sounds interesting...
 
#100 ·
Haha well I don't plan to let it go that long, but I haven't dealt with it yet as I haven't driven it since Sunday. Very interested to see what you come up with for keeping the alignment correct.
 
#101 ·
Rear 2.5" remote reservoir ICON LT shocks will be here Thursday :rocker: I plan to install them and remove my fender flares this weekend. After seeing Old Cruiser's rig with Bushwackers and now bare I'm thinking I may forgo the Bushwackers and go flare-less.


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#103 ·
I love them. They look really great in person IMO. The silver ring gives just enough "flash," but overall they are utilitarian. And they're much cheaper, lighter, and easier to use than beadlocks. The lowest I ran them was 12 psi since my MT/Rs are C rated. But with D or E rated tires I can definitely see the advantages of getting down to 5 psi. My tires were flexing pretty good at 12 psi and I never had any issues at all. The only place I've found them is National Tire & Wheel, not sure if other distributors have started to sell them.
 
#104 ·
So when I got my truck aligned before Jambo they gave me +3.4 caster on the passenger side and basically 0 camber. During Jambo I knocked it way out (steering wheel pictured in a previous post) and the passenger tire leaned in noticeably. Brought it in today and they were able to get the driver's side at +3.3 caster and 0 camber (to begin with), but the best he could do on the passenger was +2.5 caster and -1.0 camber! I looked at it with him and the camber bolts were maxed out on that side. So he is going to even both sides, but I'm concerned about the low caster and especially the camber. Did I bend something at Jambo? Just looking I haven't seen anything, but maybe I bent the spindle?


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#105 ·
did you check to see if the 32mm nut(camber adjustment) on the light racing upper control arm moved? is it already all the way out towards the wheel? if not it can go that direction to get towards 0 degrees camber.
 
#107 ·
thanks for sharing ... I like your mods ... I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a 3rd, and front diff with 4.56 gears from ECGS ... I debated a front air locker but decided to go for it ... I see you have both ... I like your wish list, speciifcslly the supercharger ...

:clap::clap::clap:
_______________

2007 FJ Cruiser – C Pckge - AT
Voodoo Blue

Toytec Ultimate 3” Lift
Total Chaos UCA
285/70R/17 Michelin LTX A/T
 
#108 ·
I'll have to check that but tmrw and see. It's be nice if it was that easy.

Brian, that's what I thought too. Any ideas on what else could be causing the camber to be maxed out at -1?

My main concern is the caster. I still had occasional rubbing issues on the body mount with +3.4 caster, so every little bit helps. And I can't tell this time around it doesn't drive as well as it did with the higher caster. Not awful by any means, but the wheel doesn't center as easily, which was to be expected.


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#109 ·
Did you bottom the LCA tabs out on anything last time out? Specifically on the side thats out of spec.

The camber being slightly negative isn't an issue at all imo. I prefer mine to be negative rather than 0. Ideally negative throughout the entire range of travel. I'd start with Jtmrockz suggestion on the camber.

The wheel won't return to center as well cause your caster is nearly a degree differrent side to side. Generally it will want to pull slightly to one side on a flat road when you've got different caster settings.
 
#110 ·
Football- Go naked with the fenders! Its way better! Less rubbing. :D

I was surprised after Jambo and WTF last year Ive not had any alignment issues and Im still on the alignment done after the LT was installed (That includes going to Jambo 2012 too). The only thing I can think is the tie rods are different, Spindles are gusseted and the TC Cam tabs may keep them better protected?

The other is having the Lefty and not having to floor it to get the front to move with A-Trac now that the front locker lets me walk up.

Rig looks great! Lets see it naked :bigthumb:
 
#114 ·
I think I wasnt clear. My point was that since I didnt have to run and gun like in the past to get the front tires to work with A-Trac (A-Trac and 35's are not the best method), I was able to prevent any excessive jarring of the front end.

You were also jumping and climbing out of the creek bed with the left tire running directly into the rock that lifted your rig up over that ledge.

That would have been a great ad for the strength of Methods Race Wheels- your tire would actually fold around the rock and the wheel was very close to touching but never faltered.

:cheers:
 
#112 ·
They went ahead and backed the driver's side caster down to only +0.1 versus the passenger side, so they are both in the mid 2s. So it doesn't pull to either side (haven't been above 50 mph yet), the wheel just doesn't return to center very quickly after a turn. I believe this is because the caster is only in the 2s, and that higher caster helps the wheel naturally return to center? Good to hear negative camber isn't an issue. I assume negative throughout the range of travel helps limit rubbing?

My Ricochet HD bash plate and LCA skids protect the tabs pretty well, but I'll have to crawl under and see if there's any sign of impact. When I looked at it with the alignment tech nothing immediately caught my eye.

OC that's the plan :bigthumb: I just have to get my lazy butt off the couch and do it :lol: I planned to do it last weekend but just never worked up the motivation. I'm out of town this weekend, but I'll be naked at Jambo for sure :rofl:

Thanks boystoy :cheers: I went back and forth on the locker as well, as it's a good chunk of change. What pushed me over the edge was 1) it saves money in the long run doing it with the regear and 2) I'd followed Wilson's rig before and there were trails he had a much easier time with than me and the major differences (in that respect) between our rigs was 35" tires and an air locker. But no more!

Depending on how much Brian wants for his SC that may get off the wishlist sooner than I originally planned :jester:
 
#115 ·
OC that's the plan :bigthumb: I just have to get my lazy butt off the couch and do it :lol: I planned to do it last weekend but just never worked up the motivation. I'm out of town this weekend, but I'll be naked at Jambo for sure :rofl:

Depending on how much Brian wants for his SC that may get off the wishlist sooner than I originally planned :jester:
:jester: I know the feeling... My rig always has me working on it. Its like another wife:lol:

So wanted to know since you have the same MT lower links I plan to buy, how is it to grease the inside zerk on the bottom? It points up towards the axle.

Your gunna have a heavy snorter! S/C- Thats awesome!! Now that Yota is killing the FJ- wonder if they will ever make the S/C for my engine
 
#117 ·
Cool- For crawling- your already rocking- think of it this way- a Rubicon runs a mid 800 RTI so your not far off with an IFS and thats awesome.

I think if anything- the Icon S2 route for when you want to run that S/C down roads fast (Trust me it will happen:lol:)

My concern with the zerks are the lower link armor. To remove it you have to remove the bolt... Thats when the fun comes in. Can you get to it with the armor on? Mind you Ive only greased mine twice since new but I also dont put mileage on mine either.
 
#118 ·
Yeah, I have the same concerns with the front as well. Are the front zerks on the AP easy to grease? I never greased my TOY links after installation as I only had them on for ~5000 miles.

My current plan is to get the Total Chaos stock width LCAs. which I can then add the second shock to in the future if I decide to. Plus the Camburg 1.25" UCAs and adding remote resis and CDC valves to the front coilovers. Without the swaybar that should provide me all the articulation I need for a lot less money and hassel (which I've experienced vicariously through you and Hornsfan :rofl:) than the LT. I plan to keep the FJ for a very long time, so maybe a long way down the road I'll revisit it.
 
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