Eggsandwich's O2 build - Page 3 - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
Member Build Ups Section for members to post their FJ buildups.

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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 06:55 AM
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Re: Eggsandwich's O2 build

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ZerosFJ previously said: View Post
nope the dealer (generalisation not specific to any particular dealership or brand) won't have filled the wrong fluids or stripped the bolts or hex heads because they probably never touched it despite charging you for doing so... they don't even remove wheels to inspect brake wear these days..
I second this! Mine had a headlight, mirror marker light and license plate bulb out, dirty air filters and a blown fuse. The "125 point inspection" seems to have been lax at best. Based on said incompetence, I didn't even ask them to change any of those items.

@eggsandwich I like your mods so far, keep us updated!
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 07:13 AM
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Re: Eggsandwich's O2 build

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eggsandwich previously said: View Post
Hi FJtest, I bought my FJ from a Toyota dealer...will they have done some of these things for me already?
Generally not. When a dealership (any dealership) sells a used vehicle, to maximize profit they will do the absolute minimum required to make the vehicle salable.

This is typically just cosmetic "detailing", but may include installation of a set of cheap tires if the tire condition at the time of trade-in was really bad, minor paint touch-up, and maybe an oil change if overdue. When selling a used vehicle, a dealership is NOT obligated to fix any open recall issues.

Any other services or maintenance provided by the dealer would need to be negotiated by the buyer at the time of the sale.
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Last edited by FJtest; 09-04-2019 at 07:54 AM.
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 11:39 AM
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Re: Eggsandwich's O2 build

Looks great
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 10:02 AM
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Re: Eggsandwich's O2 build

That FJ is looking great!
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Iceberg FJ Xtreme Edition (AT285)
• 285/70R17 tires Cooper Discoverer A/T3
• 17x8” Arctic Trucks alloy wheels
• 40mm suspension lift front/rear
• Bonnet scoop
• Anzo black amber eagle eye front signal units
• WeatherTech window deflectors
• TapTurn signal relay
• IPCW Bermuda Black rear LEDs
• Springtail Solutions side rack (in rear) and saddle rack (up front)
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 02:49 PM
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Re: Eggsandwich's O2 build

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FJtest previously said: View Post
9. If a 2010 or later, run 10W-30 synthetic oil in engine rather than the low-viscosity 0W-20 recommended by Toyota, but ONLY for the US market in order to meet CAFE fuel economy goals and not for maximum engine longevity.

These service recommendations will help the driveline make it to 300K miles and beyond.
Would it hurt to switch from 0W-20 to 0W-30 after 115K miles?

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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 04:06 PM
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Re: Eggsandwich's O2 build

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greengoose previously said: View Post
Would it hurt to switch from 0W-20 to 0W-30 after 115K miles?
Not at all, but I'd still go with 10W-30 rather than 0W anything.

Remember that in countries where Toyota doesn't have to comply with the US EPA's CAFE fuel economy requirements, for exactly the same 1GR-FE engine we have, Toyota recommends oil viscosities as high as 15W-40 or 20W-50.
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Last edited by FJtest; 09-06-2019 at 04:11 PM.
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Eggsandwich's O2 build

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FJtest previously said: View Post
Looking very nice, but as you noted, mostly cosmetics.

Don't know the year model, odometer reading or service history of your new toy. However, if you want to keep it RUNNING flawlessly for the next 15 years, and you don't have a reliably documented service history for the following preventive maintenance tasks, you might consider:

1. Changing out ALL lubricants (both diffs, transfer case and transmission) with synthetic fluids;
2. Change engine coolant;
3. Flush brake fluid;
4. Change power steering fluid (several changes of fluid in reservoir over several days);
5. Clean MAF sensor in intake tract;
6. If not running Top Tier gasoline, do so exclusively, and add a bottle of Techron fuel injection cleaner through the gas just prior to every oil change;
7. Remove and carefully inspect the serpentine accessory drive belt, replace if there are any signs of wear. While the belt is off, check all idler pulleys for smooth rotation;
8. Modify breathers for rear differential and E-locker housings if there is any chance that you will ever run through water deeper than the top of the rear axle;
9. If a 2010 or later, run 10W-30 synthetic oil in engine rather than the low-viscosity 0W-20 recommended by Toyota, but ONLY for the US market in order to meet CAFE fuel economy goals and not for maximum engine longevity.

These service recommendations will help the driveline make it to 300K miles and beyond.

Hi FJTest...I cleaned the MAF sensor (it looked pretty clean actually), and also added the fuel injection cleaner at my next gas refill.

2 follow up questions about the other recommended changes:

1) for the transmission fluid flush, I've looked at a lot of videos now on how to do that, and they always seem to replace the Strainer (part 35330-60050?) ...is this necessary?

2) Should I add changing the spark plugs? I am the 4th owner and the car has had 41k miles now. It's a 2011 FJ.
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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 10:57 AM
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Re: Eggsandwich's O2 build

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eggsandwich previously said: View Post
Hi FJTest...I cleaned the MAF sensor (it looked pretty clean actually), and also added the fuel injection cleaner at my next gas refill.

2 follow up questions about the other recommended changes:

1) for the transmission fluid flush, I've looked at a lot of videos now on how to do that, and they always seem to replace the Strainer (part 35330-60050?) ...is this necessary?

2) Should I add changing the spark plugs? I am the 4th owner and the car has had 41k miles now. It's a 2011 FJ.
When you say you "cleaned the MAF sensor", are you ABSOLUTELY sure you cleaned the two tiny, delicate, difficult-to-see MAF sensor elements, and not the large "match-head" shaped intake air temp sensor? There are several YouTube vids out there incorrectly showing the MAF cleaning process.

Regarding the coarse screen at the AT pump pickup, there is no value in cleaning this during a routine fluid change. If the transmission has shed enough clutch debris or other material to even partially obstruct the screen, the transmission has far more serious problems than will be solved by a fluid flush.

Unless there has been some other fuel or ignition system fault, with only 41K miles on the plugs there should not be any compelling reason to change the spark plugs. For the dual VVTi engines, Toyota recommends the first spark plug change at 120K miles.

However, eight years is a long time for set of plugs to be sitting undisturbed in aluminum heads, and personally, I might be inclined to pull the plugs, "read" them carefully for any information they might provide about operating conditions in each cylinder, and then replace them with new iridium plugs (Denso SK20HR11). Apply a minimal amount of anti-seize to the threads and install to a torque value about 15% less than the specified torque (lubricated threads compensation). Then you can comfortably wait 100K miles until the next plug change.

(But, if you don't have an accurate torque wrench or a well-refined understanding of fastener tightening torque, don't eff with the plugs.)
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 12:45 PM
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Eggsandwich's O2 build

nothing quite like blowing the threads off a loose plug, or better yet stripping the threads...
Your big lugnut torque wrench is not accurate at 15lbs


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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Eggsandwich's O2 build

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FJtest previously said: View Post
When you say you "cleaned the MAF sensor", are you ABSOLUTELY sure you cleaned the two tiny, delicate, difficult-to-see MAF sensor elements, and not the large "match-head" shaped intake air temp sensor? There are several YouTube vids out there incorrectly showing the MAF cleaning process.

Regarding the coarse screen at the AT pump pickup, there is no value in cleaning this during a routine fluid change. If the transmission has shed enough clutch debris or other material to even partially obstruct the screen, the transmission has far more serious problems than will be solved by a fluid flush.

Unless there has been some other fuel or ignition system fault, with only 41K miles on the plugs there should not be any compelling reason to change the spark plugs. For the dual VVTi engines, Toyota recommends the first spark plug change at 120K miles.

However, eight years is a long time for set of plugs to be sitting undisturbed in aluminum heads, and personally, I might be inclined to pull the plugs, "read" them carefully for any information they might provide about operating conditions in each cylinder, and then replace them with new iridium plugs (Denso SK20HR11). Apply a minimal amount of anti-seize to the threads and install to a torque value about 15% less than the specified torque (lubricated threads compensation). Then you can comfortably wait 100K miles until the next plug change.

(But, if you don't have an accurate torque wrench or a well-refined understanding of fastener tightening torque, don't eff with the plugs.)
For the MAF sensor...yes noted from different sources that the two MAF sensor elements are inside the unit...see pic:
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