Dual battery -- why bother? - Page 3 - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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post #21 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-15-2013, 04:33 PM
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Re: Dual battery -- why bother?

if you plan on only using a single battery than a deep cycle is probably better suited to winching and drawing down and then recharging.

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post #22 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-15-2013, 04:44 PM
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Re: Dual battery -- why bother?

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Completely off topic... are you the same l0ch0w from Alltrac.net?
I am
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post #23 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-15-2013, 05:06 PM
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Re: Dual battery -- why bother?

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Nice, I figured there'd be at least some overlap in the Toyota world...

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post #24 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-15-2013, 08:38 PM
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Re: Dual battery -- why bother?

Quick question regarding dual battery setup, when the FJ is running is it setup to charge both batteries?
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post #25 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-15-2013, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Dual battery -- why bother?

The stock battery of my FJ 2010 is dead. Lights, radio, and everything is strong as far as I can tell. It just doesn't start the engine. I also got the Check Engine Light after that (is this only due to misfiring?).

BTW, my battery meter in the dashboard (voltmeter) has the gauge between the limit indicators. The gauge is very close to the button limit, but it's slightly above it. Is this THAT bad?

Questions:
- Is the CEL due to misfiring? I did try to start the engine multiple times, and I made it cause funny sounds due to lack of sufficient battery I guess.
- Is my battery level really that bad (i.e. slightly above the lower limit in the voltmeter in FJ's dashboard)?
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post #26 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-15-2013, 09:01 PM
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Re: Dual battery -- why bother?

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Quick question regarding dual battery setup, when the FJ is running is it setup to charge both batteries?
Basically yes, but the specifics depend on which system you buy. With mine, the Wrangler system, the default mode (that you switch from the dash) keeps the batteries "connected" (for charging) with the ignition on but disconnected when off (to spare the starting battery). The other two modes keep them disconnected (not charging with the engine on) or the "emergency" mode used for self jumping that connects them with the engine off.

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post #27 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-15-2013, 09:22 PM
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Re: Dual battery -- why bother?

maxtor: A dead battery doesn't hurt anything, just nothing works obviously. Replace the battery and you should be back to normal. You'll have to reset the clock and stuff like that, and you'll loose your radio presets.

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post #28 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-15-2013, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Dual battery -- why bother?

But is my battery really flat? The voltmeter shows the gauge above the lower limit (barely above it).
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post #29 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-15-2013, 10:45 PM
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Re: Dual battery -- why bother?

if when running the voltmeter is low, then you have an alternator problem... plain and simple its either broken, or you have too many appliances running and its causing excessive draw.

As for dual batteries, you need an isolater to keep from one battery drawing off of the other. The secondary battery can only charge when the starting battery is fully charged, and when the car is off, appliances will only draw from its respective battery because it is isolated from the starter battery.

They look like this : LINK
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post #30 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-16-2013, 08:03 AM
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Re: Dual battery -- why bother?

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I know a guy who builds custom alternators. Had one made for my celica. Upgraded from an 80A to a 180A and it ran about $450 including a red powdercoat. You can either send your old one in and have him make it, or he will go and buy one and retrofit the guts.
Wow, tired of waiting for the "Mean Green" Alternator for my 2012 as well.

Might just have to look into this.


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