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Recovery Points?

24K views 30 replies 17 participants last post by  CruizinFJ 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I'm hoping to take my new Titanium AT off-road for the first time soon, but my "mentor" is asking about recovery points on the truck.

Are the tow hooks on the FJ acceptable recovery points? I've read that "most" factory tow hooks are no good, but I was hoping that these are among the few that are okay.

R.
 
#2 ·
Toyotas tow hooks are no joke. You might wanna consider a shackle trailer hitch cover. Comes in handy if you get high centered and need a highlift jack to raise the ass alil to get more grip to the front.
 
#3 ·
I used the rear loop this weekend to get pulled out of a mud hole, then used one of the front loops to pull a Jeep out of the same mud hole. No problems, just remember if you using the recommend tow strap without hooks you might want to carry a d-ring or something to hook your tow strap to the loop. The FJ has tow loops instead of tow hooks.
 
#5 ·
There is a second location in the rear for a fourth tow loop with nuts already attached to the frame. Just need the loop and two bolts. I wonder if you can get tow loop from Toyota?
 
#7 ·
I've used everysingle hook available on the FJ.

I've went through some big ass mudholes with stock tires and gotten stuck 5/7 times. though I always brought along my buddy with his T100.

none of them have failed. I've used a 3500lb load tow strap with a 10,000lb breaking load.

Theres 2 in the front and 1 in the left rear. and there semms to be plenty of places on the sides where you can hook up a hook to the frame( 5+) and I think a couple more in the rear.

But "official" hooks 3. I dunno if this is what you wanted though places for a hi-lift I've found none yet.
 
#9 ·
tnegiet said:
K os,
we need to see some pictures of your FJ swamped!

I've posted pics b4 and after. Im ussually covered in mud head to toe. So I don't wanan deal with the camera. I'll bring my girl next time to be a camera girl maybe get her to wrestle in the mud with my buddy's ... I wish.. hehe.

edit: I believe I have a pic of it full of mud at the car wash. I'll look for it and post it.
 
#10 ·
K_os said:
I've posted pics b4 and after. Im ussually covered in mud head to toe. So I don't wanan deal with the camera. I'll bring my girl next time to be a camera girl maybe get her to wrestle in the mud with my buddy's ... I wish.. hehe.

edit: I believe I have a pic of it full of mud at the car wash. I'll look for it and post it.
Don't forget to post the mud wrestling girl as well :D
 
#13 ·
K_os said:
none of them have failed. I've used a 3500lb load tow strap with a 10,000lb breaking load.
That's way too low for use as a recovery strap. You've labeled it correctly, calling it a tow strap and that's all it's good for, towing a vehicle on the road. Typically, people use recovery straps rated at 20,000 - 30,000 lbs.

DO NOT use anything with chains or hooks attached for recovery. Generally speaking, DO NOT use chains for recovery. They have their place, but not for snatching anybody out.
 
#14 ·
robinhood4x4 said:
That's way too low for use as a recovery strap. You've labeled it correctly, calling it a tow strap and that's all it's good for, towing a vehicle on the road. Typically, people use recovery straps rated at 20,000 - 30,000 lbs.

DO NOT use anything with chains or hooks attached for recovery. Generally speaking, DO NOT use chains for recovery. They have their place, but not for snatching anybody out.

I know this. I have a rather hefty chain that I know for a fact will not break. It's been used to move bulldozers and payloaders though I do not like to use this while wheelin' and another "recovery strap" per say which is rated at 45,000lbs break weight of 100,000 I believer I just never had either of these 2 handy.

But like I said I promised some pics of it covered in mud. here they are.

Finally got some pics of it in the mud or with mud on it. This was after wheeling at the carwash. Fun stuff.




sorry for the ****ty quality I only had my girl's cellphone handy.
 
#15 ·
robinhood4x4 said:
That's way too low for use as a recovery strap. You've labeled it correctly, calling it a tow strap and that's all it's good for, towing a vehicle on the road. Typically, people use recovery straps rated at 20,000 - 30,000 lbs.

DO NOT use anything with chains or hooks attached for recovery. Generally speaking, DO NOT use chains for recovery. They have their place, but not for snatching anybody out.
so you are stateing not to use winches as they involve hooks?
 
#17 ·
One of the problems with using chain is they don't give at all and therefore are hard on equipment. Since straps stretch they're more forgiving and won't rip part off a tow hook.

Another thing is a strap can recover you like nothing else can. For example, one time when I went snow wheeling I was buried up to my frame so we hooked up the strap. Now, snow is a funny thing because it will refreeze instantly. Well the guy pulling me hits the gas and gets a little momentum up. I see the back of his truck jerk around a little and then he comes to a complete stop. I feel absolutely nothing because the truck was frozen to the ground. Then about a half second later, because of the stretchiness of the strap, the strap yanks me out.

Here is a good article about recovery:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/index.html
 
#18 · (Edited)
K_os said:
stop being a smart ass winches are an off-road engineered recovery equipment.

edit: towstraps with hooks or chains are not.
I am not trying to be a smartass, I was just asking for a clarifacation
you see, there are lots o guys here that are new to wheeling, they bought the FJ because it was a cool looking vehicle and will start wheeling because of it, if you post something, think about all angles because they will take it as gospel.
now about recovery equiptment.
heavyduty rated chains are used when circleing a rock, they do not chafe and it is recommended that you join it togethter as shortly as possible with a shackle. using he shackle as a attachment point. a tree strap is used when circleing a live object so you do not damage it.
Never take a winch line and attach it to itself, it will damagethe line and cause failure.
Using a chain inline is asking for a missle to take out something.
Recovery equiptment should be inspected before a pull for chafeing and cuts.
using equiptment that is not rated for a pull,recomended 1 1/2 times weight of vehicle to be recovered, is asking for a accident. the strains developed during a recovery can be that of the vehicle and frictional equivalent of whatever is causeing it to be stuck.
Another pointer, it is adviced that you put a weighted bag across the strap,, in the case of a failure this causes the line to go to ground instead of snapping back like a rubberband and using all its atored energy to break something, hood,grill, human, etc.
 
#19 ·
fjbear said:
I used the rear loop this weekend to get pulled out of a mud hole, then used one of the front loops to pull a Jeep out of the same mud hole. No problems, just remember if you using the recommend tow strap without hooks you might want to carry a d-ring or something to hook your tow strap to the loop. The FJ has tow loops instead of tow hooks.
The D-ring is definatly the way to go... I had to use all 3 recovery points with a d-ring and the only issue i had was I took of a small piece of the rear bumper... not noticable at all... so its all good!

MACTIKI
 
#21 ·
highbeams said:
so you are stateing not to use winches as they involve hooks?
Robinhood4x4 was referring to hooks on the straps. Since straps store energy when it recoils the hooks become instant flying objects that could possible take out anything in it's way. (just think of it as a projectile with infinite direction).

hooks on a winch on the other hand has different results:
Scenario 1: hook on steel cable and cable snaps off at the middle. Cable is now the projectile item as the steel cable stores energy. Therefore using a blanket to help bring the cable down to the ground safely and also you know where your line is while winching.
Scenario 2: hook on steel cable and hook breaks. Now both the cable and hook are projectile item. See scenario 1 for solution.
Scenario 3: hook on synthetic cable and cable breaks. Cable does not store any energy so cable just drops instantly. Absolutely no recoil.
Scenario 4: hook on synthetic cable and hook breaks. hook and cable drops instantly as cable does not store energy. Absolutely no recoil.

Remember safety first. If at all possible use proper recovery straps for recovery only. These should be rated 20k + minimum with loops on the ends. Use shackles to tie loop to recovery point (i.e. stock hook/hoop). If you have a winch or plan to get one, I highly recommend the synthetic line as it is lighter than steel (better on your front suspension) and is safer as explained above.

Good luck
 
#24 ·
Most asian\import vehicles have "tie down points" - to hold the vehicle firmly to the ship in transport ( and or rail car)...The FJ hooks are much like those except a bit heavier- the front "loops" are closed and are impossible to use when in deep mud,ice whatever.
I suggest a D ring or clevice to hook to the "loop" and presto - there ya go- Instant tow point.
We have had a hard time hooking up anything but steel hooks ( that I am terribly afraid of- I have witnessed them catapulting into a tail gate of a pick up) to get into the FJ front skid plate.
That is what I would use!
You can also place a jacket over a winch line to keep the cable from flying through your winshield or anything handy ( and as mentioned before) to see the winch line...
 
#25 ·
Robinhood4x4,

I looked read the link you provided: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ery/index.html

I'm a newbie and have a lot to learn about recovery, more importantly, the proper way to recover.

Thanks for the link. I'll have to do a lot more research before I decide which winch I'll buy for the FJ.

Regards,
 
#26 ·
Damageinc said:
Most asian\import vehicles have "tie down points" - to hold the vehicle firmly to the ship in transport ( and or rail car)...The FJ hooks are much like those except a bit heavier- the front "loops" are closed and are impossible to use when in deep mud,ice whatever.
I suggest a D ring or clevice to hook to the "loop" and presto - there ya go- Instant tow point.
We have had a hard time hooking up anything but steel hooks ( that I am terribly afraid of- I have witnessed them catapulting into a tail gate of a pick up) to get into the FJ front skid plate.
That is what I would use!
You can also place a jacket over a winch line to keep the cable from flying through your winshield or anything handy ( and as mentioned before) to see the winch line...
All vehicles sold in the US have to have some sort of tie down point in the front and rear of the vehicle for transport - some are more usable than others as general recovery points. On 4x4's usually they are more prominent, or had available options for larger, more visible tow hooks...:cool:
 
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