C1401/C1402 Traction Control Valve RF Circuit - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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C1401/C1402 Traction Control Valve RF Circuit

Hello all!

This is my first post to the forum, but I've had my FJ for quite a while now. I have a stock 2012 with manual transmission. This winter has been good here in Utah with plenty of snow for skiing. This means the roads have also been entertaining (read: slick). Shortly after the 2nd major snow here my CE and A-Trac light came on the dash. I used my FIXD OBDII device to see the code and it shows C1401 Traction Control Valve RF Circuit Open, and C1402 Traction Control Valve RF Circuit Short To Ground. I have searched the almighty Google for these error codes and have come up somewhat empty-handed, aside from this link: https://www.troublecodes.net/ccodes/c1402/. I plan on taking it to the dealer to have them read the codes as well, but I figured I'd plumb the depths of knowledge on this forum to get an idea of what I'm up against. I'm fairly handy with my vehicles, doing much of the regular maintenance myself, so I do have some minimal mechanic skills. Can anyone tell me what these codes mean and how I can go about getting it repaired?

Thanks in advance!

2012 FJ manual transmission

Last edited by Fastactin; 02-27-2019 at 01:46 PM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 03:04 PM
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Re: C1401/C1402 Traction Control Valve RF Circuit

The OBDII description you found for C1402 is somewhat misleading ... a more informative for this code is "Malfunction in Front Speed Sensor LH Circuit".

Look for damaged cable to the left-front wheel speed sensor, corroded or contaminated contacts in the connectors, a loose sensor mounting bolt, metallic contamination on the end of the sensor, or less likely, a failing wheel bearing.

Damaged cables can be hard to detect, as the conductors inside the cable can be broken even though the outer insulation is intact. Inspect the cable carefully for any evidence that something hit it, pinched it, or got caught on it.

Pull the sensor itself, and verify that the plastic housing is not cracked, and that the tip is clean and there is no ferrous debris on it. When reinstalling it, verify that the mounting pad is clean and the sensor is seated properly.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: C1401/C1402 Traction Control Valve RF Circuit

Thank you for your thorough reply! I will inspect everything tonight when I get home.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 11:37 AM
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Re: C1401/C1402 Traction Control Valve RF Circuit

And the problem was??????

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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And the problem was??????
I've visually inspected everything on the front driver's side wheel speed sensor and wiring with no noticable problems. I then went on vacation for a few weeks. My next step will be to replace the sensor itself and see if that's the issue.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 11:21 PM
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Re: C1401/C1402 Traction Control Valve RF Circuit

Bear in mind that the actual conductor within the insulation can be broken if the cable is "stretched", while the insulation still appears intact.

I think it's more likely that the cable is damaged, rather than having an actual sensor failure on a '12 model, unless the wheel bearing itself is failing.

The magnetic "encoder ring" that the sensor "reads" is an integral part of the bearing.You can pull the sensor and make sure that no debris is present on the tip.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Bear in mind that the actual conductor within the insulation can be broken if the cable is "stretched", while the insulation still appears intact.

I think it's more likely that the cable is damaged, rather than having an actual sensor failure on a '12 model, unless the wheel bearing itself is failing.

The magnetic "encoder ring" that the sensor "reads" is an integral part of the bearing.You can pull the sensor and make sure that no debris is present on the tip.
I didn't pull the sensor, I will do that today. Nothing was loose. I disconnected the wire and checked the connection, it was clear of any corrosion. I will triple check the wiring when I pull the sensor tonight.

This is my second FJ. I had to replace the left front hub (same one that's causing me problems now!) on my first one due to a failed magnetic ring, so I've been down this road before unfortunately. I'm hoping it's the wiring or sensor and not the hub. I want to avoid the old "replace everything one at a time until the light goes away" game.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 11:20 AM
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Re: C1401/C1402 Traction Control Valve RF Circuit

With recent driving through heavy snow, I think its more likely a cable problem than a failed sensor or failed hub.

Use an ohmmeter to verify that each conductor in the cable shows end-to-end continuity when it is put under slight tension. I think there are two series-connected sections of cable.

Approaching the problem by the blind shotgunning method ("replace everything one at a time until the light goes away") is absurd; careful failure analysis using a methodical approach will almost always isolate the root cause of the problem without wasting money replacing good parts.

If you have access to an oscilloscope, you can check the output signal from the wheel sensor by jacking up the wheel and spinning the tire by hand.

Last edited by FJtest; 03-30-2019 at 04:45 PM.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Multimeters are cheap enough, I'll get one of those. I'm not familiar with using on a car though. Any advice on specific steps?

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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FJtest previously said: View Post
With recent driving through heavy snow, I think its more likely a cable problem than a failed sensor or failed hub.

Use an ohmmeter to verify that each conductor in the cable shows end-to-end continuity when it is put under slight tension. I think there are two series-connected sections of cable.

Approaching the problem by the blind shotgunning method ("replace everything one at a time until the light goes away") is absurd; careful failure analysis using a methodical approach will almost always isolate the root cause of the problem without wasting money replacing good parts.

If you have access to an oscilloscope, you can check the output signal from the wheel sensor by jacking up the wheel and spinning the tire by hand.
I haven't tried the multimeter yet. But out of curiosity I disconnected the wheel speed sensor to see if the computer detected it. Sure enough it did. I *think* that means the wire if functional, as is the sensor itself. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that means the magnetic ring on the hub is the problem. I'm posting screenshots of my error codes with the sensor disconnected.
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