Broken Wheel Studs - Page 2 - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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post #11 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 01:39 PM
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Re: Broken Wheel Studs

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I was torq'n mine down to 100lbs before I found out otherwise. I doubt it is a weakness issue with all of them. Seems really odd to me.
What year is yours? They might have changed from year to the next. Mine's a 2007.

I might drive by Vermont and swap all yours out for mine when you're not looking. I doubt I went up to 100 ft lbs. It felt easier as it went along and then pop. Pretty crappy feeling after that.
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post #12 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 02:31 PM
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Re: Broken Wheel Studs

When rotating my tires summer I had a couple studs "break" They essentially just twisted off. They were both on one wheel and I had initially torqued all of them to 60ft/lbs and was working my way back over them to hit 85. 4 of them clicked no problem, but the other two just didn't click the wrench and I kept spinning them, mistake. Anyway, I was so disgusted I just drove the FJ to American tire and had them replace both of them for $30. I'm no expert in the operation of a torque wrench, but have used them quite a bit over the years. This is the first time I've ever had an issue with lug nuts. Perhaps the lugs were dirty, this could cause the torque readings to be off. I'm not sure why it happened, but I am sure that the other 22 lug nuts had no issues at all. Nor did I have issues 8 months earlier when I rotated them.

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post #13 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 06:35 PM
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Re: Broken Wheel Studs

how hard is it to change out a broken stud on the front, what all do you have to remove to take the broken stud out and slide the new one in
thanks for your help, kevin

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post #14 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 07:12 PM
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Re: Broken Wheel Studs

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fjcruisin59 previously said: View Post
how hard is it to change out a broken stud on the front, what all do you have to remove to take the broken stud out and slide the new one in
thanks for your help, kevin
Glad you asked since I was going to post how I changed mine. First of all, I wanted to let everyone know that the front and rear studs are different sizes. So make sure you order the right one. The dealership parts dept had them both for about $3.50 a piece so I bought three - one to replace the front one and two others for front and rear spares in case I break one again. They actually hammered out the old stud to inspect it. They didn't charge me for it either. Since I thought $89 was ridiculous to pay for putting a new one in, I did it myself.

Here's the procedure I used:

1. Take wheel off. (obvious)
2. Take off brake line bracket that's bolted above the caliper. Make sure to take this off first because the brake line will probably bend under the weight of the caliper if you don't take it off.
3. Take caliper bolts off. Make sure to have something to support the caliper since it is HEAVY. I used a jack stand. Jiggle the caliper off the rotor.
4. Take off brake rotor.
5. NOTE: This step was done by the dealer not by me --> Hammer out old stud.
If there's enough thread left I would suggest getting a nut that fits the stud, screwing it in a little and hammering it. Mine was too short to use this method.
6. Insert new stud from the back. It should be fairly easy to pass through. I then used some 1/2" washers(about 5 of them) that I had laying around and placed it on the other side where the stud sticks through. Then I put a lug on the stud and started tightening slowly making sure that the stud was going in perpedicular to the hub. I tightened until the bolt was flush against the back of the hub.
7. Replace the rotor. Check the stud and make sure it sits in the middle of the hole in the rotor along with the others. You might have to hold and rotate the rotor a little until you get it just right.
8. Replace the caliper and tighten bolts
9. Replace the brake line bracket and tighten bolt.
10. Place wheel back on. I noticed that one of the lugs did not go in as easily as the rest and the lug was sitting higher when I hand screwed it in. I think I might have had a slight angle on the new stud I put on. I just jiggled the wheel until the lug fit and tightened.

I took about 30-40 mins(I wasn't keeping track). Hammering out the old one would probably have taken a couple more minutes. It's fairly easy. Just make sure to take your time setting the new stud in and don't rush it.

I took it for a drive and then took the wheel off again. When placing it back on, all the studs were centered perfectly. I guess the stud needed a little more tightening which happened when I put the wheel on.

Last edited by mmont0; 05-26-2009 at 03:50 PM.
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post #15 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-19-2009, 09:15 AM
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Re: Broken Wheel Studs

^ great write-up.

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mmont0 previously said: View Post
What year is yours? They might have changed from year to the next. Mine's a 2007.

I might drive by Vermont and swap all yours out for mine when you're not looking. I doubt I went up to 100 ft lbs. It felt easier as it went along and then pop. Pretty crappy feeling after that.
I have a 2007 too. Mine is a trd se? Maybe that's why mine is special? LOL

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post #16 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-26-2009, 10:32 AM
 
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Re: Broken Wheel Studs

I have an 08 and I had a front one snap as well a 85 ft lbs. The stud was narrower at the back and discolored. This is a pretty scary problem considering I transport my kids in this vehicle. As far as Im concerned this is a problem that shouldnt happen. I may be pulling the plug on the FJ after this one and switching to something else.
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post #17 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-26-2009, 12:11 PM
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Re: Broken Wheel Studs

I'm not convinced that there is anything wrong with the studs on our wheels. Yes this sort of thing happens I'm sure it happens to all sorts vehicles as well. At least we run 6 studs if one breaks we still have 5 other studs which is plenty. I'm not worried at all.
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post #18 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-26-2009, 03:48 PM
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Re: Broken Wheel Studs

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VT_RainMan previously said: View Post
^ great write-up.



I have a 2007 too. Mine is a trd se? Maybe that's why mine is special? LOL
Thanks.

Maybe the TRD SE uses different studs. The S in SE is for Special.

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jsknockoff previously said: View Post

I have an 08 and I had a front one snap as well a 85 ft lbs. The stud was narrower at the back and discolored. This is a pretty scary problem considering I transport my kids in this vehicle. As far as Im concerned this is a problem that shouldnt happen. I may be pulling the plug on the FJ after this one and switching to something else.
I'm not worried about it. I drove on 5 lugs for ~4 days and it didn't even make a difference in the way the FJ drove. I think 5 lugs are enough to hold the wheels on nice and tight.

I think it was my torque wrench. Now I just torque up to 60 ft lbs and hand tighten a little bit more.

Last edited by mmont0; 05-26-2009 at 03:54 PM.
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post #19 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-26-2009, 09:00 PM
 
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Re: Broken Wheel Studs

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rockland previously said: View Post
I'm not convinced that there is anything wrong with the studs on our wheels. Yes this sort of thing happens I'm sure it happens to all sorts vehicles as well. At least we run 6 studs if one breaks we still have 5 other studs which is plenty. I'm not worried at all.

There is certainly a flaw in the studs. A fastener that size should handle well over 100ft lbs. I'm not saying they are all bad but the one that broke on my truck was visibly smaller at the top compared to the others on that hub.
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post #20 of 107 (permalink) Old 05-27-2009, 08:02 AM
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Re: Broken Wheel Studs

Did you guys rotate or remove your tires several times before they broke? Are you using the same stock wheels and lug nuts?

The only thing I can think of... is the wheel wasn't installed correctly and the hub was rubbing on the bolt. I know I have to always recenter my hub sometimes before putting my wheel back on.

Of course there are manufacturer defects.... just seems odd with so many of us not having any issues at all.

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