It started with the dual battery kit switch install... - Page 3 - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-26-2011, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Re: It started with the dual battery kit switch install...

Here is a close up of the fuse mount on the battery hold-down. I am posting this as a reminder to the others who got the dual battery kits, to install a fuse near to the aux battery so you don't have a catastrophic battery event when Murphy shorts out your wiring.[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Re: It started with the dual battery kit switch install...

Finished up this project by routing the 2 Battery Tender cables on the batteries to the grill, where I left enough slack to allow them to loop thru and tuck back in behind the bumper lights. Now I don't need to lift the hood to connect/disconnect the Tenders.





And I did the seat switch that sounds a truck horn under the dash, with super bright 10mm LED on the dash when activated. Very cool security feature that I used to damage the hearing of my unsuspecting victims. Probably make a crook run off, unless the crook just tows the FJ.

OK, that's it, "DEMONS BEGONE!!" no more mods for a while.

Except there was an idea floated on the forum about adding a light to the suicide door...


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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 03:56 PM
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Re: It started with the dual battery kit switch install...

Try spraying some spray-on tint on it. The same stuff people use to smoke out their headlights and turn signals.

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Insanity? Yes, I have evidence.

Just got a Stinger voltage monitor and have mounted it to the left side silver plastic vent cover thing, along with a DPDT switch. I was going to use a momentary switch until I found that the Stinger has a "trigger" line, so it can be connected to a circuit that is only hot when the ignition is on (or aux). The switch is on-off-on, so left will be to see primary battery voltage, right for aux battery and center off, because the bugger looks like it might be too bright at night. Planning to install it tomorrow after getting rid of this pesky beer.
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 06:19 PM
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Re: It started with the dual battery kit switch install...

Hey just an update to the questions asked above about the old style rocker switch. DP now makes one that fits in the stock switch blanks of the FJ.

Dirty Parts

Wish I had seen this before installing mine...


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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: It started with the dual battery kit switch install...

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Hey just an update to the questions asked above about the old style rocker switch. DP now makes one that fits in the stock switch blanks of the FJ.

Dirty Parts

Wish I had seen this before installing mine...
Cool switch, but what about the 'charm' of a Soviet style switch?

Hey, that new one looks like it has just 2 modes while the old style is a 3 position switch, Dual On, Dual Off and Emergency. Maybe the new one has a center position too?

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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: It started with the dual battery kit switch install...

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Try spraying some spray-on tint on it. The same stuff people use to smoke out their headlights and turn signals.
Good idea, think I'll take it a step further and paint the top part of the lens with black paint. This gauge hasn't actually been useful in any important way, but it is a fun thing to play with.

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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-27-2012, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: It started with the dual battery kit switch install...

[IMG][/IMG]

I just read a post about removing the diffusers inside the side mirror marker lights to improve the light output. Well, it does make them brighter. To remove them you just pop the mirrors off, remove the light and reach in there with a very sharp pick, I used one with a 1/2" right angled tip, and pull the stupid plastic disk out. I pierced it and pulled until it broke, then reached in with needle nose pliers to twist the buggers on their way out. The markers are very close in brightness and color to the parking lights now, a worthwhile 20 minutes and a good excuse to pop the top on a cold one.

This is the pic before removing the disks, the after shot you can get by driving South on the same road that I am driving North on.

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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-27-2012, 09:55 PM
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Re: It started with the dual battery kit switch install...

G'day Dougla2,
Sorry for my ignorance, can you explain why I should add a fuse in line on my dual batteries. I thought my Blue Sea 7622 ACR took care of the need for another fuse ?
I understand the isolation / fuse as a concept. But doesn't the solenoid prevent the idiot factor ?
Thanks in advance for the advice..
Tks Baz
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-28-2012, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: It started with the dual battery kit switch install...

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G'day Dougla2,
Sorry for my ignorance, can you explain why I should add a fuse in line on my dual batteries. I thought my Blue Sea 7622 ACR took care of the need for another fuse ?
I understand the isolation / fuse as a concept. But doesn't the solenoid prevent the idiot factor ?
Thanks in advance for the advice..
Tks Baz
Hi Baz,

I needed a fuse for my situation because there is a heavy wire running away from the secondary battery, headed to the rear of the vehicle. If that line got mashed, like during a wreck or anything that shorted the line to ground, there is nothing to stop the battery from catastophic failure, so I put a fuse right at the battery. I do not know what happens if an AGM type battery gets shorted, but with an old style, you risk overheating and popping that plastic box full of acid. Unsure what to do in your case, but if it were me, I'd fuse the circuit right at the battery. Does Murphy's Law apply equally there in Oz?

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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-28-2012, 06:45 PM
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Re: It started with the dual battery kit switch install...

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Hi Baz,

I needed a fuse for my situation because there is a heavy wire running away from the secondary battery, headed to the rear of the vehicle. If that line got mashed, like during a wreck or anything that shorted the line to ground, there is nothing to stop the battery from catastophic failure, so I put a fuse right at the battery. I do not know what happens if an AGM type battery gets shorted, but with an old style, you risk overheating and popping that plastic box full of acid. Unsure what to do in your case, but if it were me, I'd fuse the circuit right at the battery. Does Murphy's Law apply equally there in Oz?
G'day dougla2,
Thanks for the message. Yes Murphy's law equally applies down under.. lol
Good advice too, how big should it be ? I am guessing huge..ish, would a circuit breaker work as well ? hmmm, I have a couple of 80 amp inline fuses spare and an 80 amp circuit breaker spare, but I think I should use some thing bigger... 200 amps or something ?
Thanks for the guidance.... much appreciated.
Cheers
Baz
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