Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: half way to Tahoe
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Re: speaker powering question
Text books have been written on this subject, so a summary here is really not doing it any justice. but....
Please bear in mind that for average listening levels you rarely exceed 10 watts of power output in an enclosed space. There are occasional spikes of higher output but the steady-state output is much lower than you might expect. So huge amps are really not neccessary.
There are several factors that go to the final output of any given Driver(speaker)
The sensitivity gives a rating in terms of the output (sound pressure level) for a given input power. The higher the sensitivity the greater the output for the same input relative to other drivers. This relates to the winding and magnet assembly and the impedance of the driver.
The power handling capability is simply the amount of power a driver can handle without being overloaded. This is directly related to the size and type of the windings in the motor of the driver and the spider and basket assembly.
There are a great many other factors that go into making a great system. Impedence matching is often over-looked, as is resonant frequency, enclosure type etc.
The bottom line here is that you want to:
Buy good quality drivers, with large (heavy) magnets, and cast frames if possible. Price does not always equate to quality here.
Match the impedance of the amp or HU and the drivers.
Use good quality crossovers to cut off the non-linear regions of the output curve of each driver.
If you're really into the best sound, you should buy or borrow the equipment required to run the curves on the drivers yourself and tailor the crossovers to the flatest response possible.
Barring that find a supplier that can give you the data on the drivers and sell you the crossover components to flatten the response curves. Good suppliers will offer this info on their web sites for informed buyers.
07 Titanium loaded..
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