I ended up having to replace my steering rack. Wasn't leaking just had a good bit of play in it, most likely a result of 35" tires and lots of offroading. I bought a brand new rack from carsteering.com for $285 (no core) and decided to put it in myself (much cheaper than dealer who wanted $1600 installed). It has a 3yr warranty so we'll see if it holds up.
While I changed the rack, I decided to change a few other things.
Additional New Parts:
whiteline swaybar endlinks
energy suspension swaybar bushings
swaybar lock collar
whiteline front differential mount bushings
diff output shaft seals
The FSM says to remove the trans/tcase and lift/tilt the engine to remove the steering rack. I thought, this can't be right, 10hrs for a steering rack. I did it in 5hrs, including the time it took for me to figure out how to do it without touching the engine/trans. Keep in mind, I'm not a professional mechanic.
So here's a basic breakdown of how to remove the rack.
1. Remove the front differential assembly (this sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn't, just make sure to have a 2nd set of hands to help with the weight, I wish I would have)
2. Remove outer tierod ends from rack
3. Drain the power steering (I just disconnected the return line in front of the rack)
4. Secure the steering wheel so it's centered and can't turn
5. Mark the steering shaft at the coupler with paint pen
6. Remove the 2 pinch bolts from the coupler and slide it up the column (mine was seized and required hitting it from under the vehicle with a long pry bar)
7. Remove the pinch bolt from the steering shaft at the rack and remove the steering shaft.
8. Remove the feed/return lines from the rack (including the clamp brackets that hold them to crossmember). The return line is held on with a hose clamp. The feed line will require a 17mm flared crows foot socket and 6" extension (like the picture) in order to remove the flared fitting (if you've never removed the feed line, there may be corrosion and/or dirt preventing it from loosening easily).
After you've loosened the feed line with the flared crows foot socket, you can use a regular wrench from the side to remove it faster
Lines removed from rack
After you've disconnected the lines, you can let them hang and finish draining
Now this is where the fsm would tell you to remove the trans/tcase and tilt the engine. The reason why is because you can't remove the 2 bolts holding the rack to the crossmember. The bolts hit the transmission lines and the A/C compressor. Can you guess what you do next?
9. Remove the 2 bolts on the passenger side of the engine block that hold the 2 clamp brackets for the transmission cooler lines. Now you have enough wiggle in the lines to remove the steering rack bolt on that side.
10. Remove the serpentine belt
11. Unplug the electrical connector at the A/C compressor and remove the 4 bolts holding it to the engine block, (easiest access through the drivers wheel well). You should now have enough wiggle room with the a/c lines still attached to lift the compressor up to remove the steering rack bolt on that side.
12. Push the tierod all the way to the passenger side and slide the rack to the passenger side until you can get the driver side inner tierod through the crossmember. Then pull the rack out.
13. With the rack removed, you can remove the low pressure return line fitting from the rack (hose barb fitting) with a 17mm deep socket. This part is not included with a replacement rack, so be sure to swap it to the new rack before install.
Installation is the reverse of removal, except you connect the steering shaft to the coupler (lining it up with the marks you made earlier) before the rack, but be sure to center the rack (L to R) in its travel before you connect the steering shaft
Torque specs for this job:
steering rack mounting bolts (2): 74 ft/lbs
steering rack high pressure feed line (1): 31-33 ft/lbs
steering rack low pressure return hose fitting (1): 31-33 ft/lbs
steering shaft/coupler pinch bolts (3): 27 ft/lbs
outer tie rod end castle nut (2): 67 ft/lbs
power steering lines in front of rack (2): 21 ft/lbs
transmission line clamp brackets (2): 10 ft/lbs
a/c compressor bolts (4): 18 ft/lbs
Sorry I didn't take more pictures, but it should help