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Uniball tapered bolt stuck in spindle

6K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  jager555 
#1 ·
Hello All,

I have a 2011 FJ cruiser with 2.5 icon coilovers and icon tubular arms with uniballs. I decided after 4 years it was finally time to get my icon shocks services and uniballs replaced with delta joints. I have successfully removed everything except the tapered bolt that goes from the uniball to the spindle. I can't seem to get the driver side off. The nut came off no problem but I can't seem to get this dang bolt out of the spindle. I've tried everything I could think of.
Hitting the side of the spindle does nothing.
Hitting the spindle and the bottom of the tapered bolt at the same time does nothing.
Hitting just the bottom of the tapered bold does nothing.
I've sprayed some WD40 and some penetrant in there about 15 times over the last 5 days.
I've tried an air hammer, but still no luck.

I'm at a loss at this moment and have no idea why this tapered bold won't come out on the driver side. I really don't want to have to remove the spindle from my FJ and I really don't want to drill out the bolt as I fear I might mess up the taper on the spindle. Any suggestion and guidance are very appreciated. Iv been trying to get this out for over 5 days now. Googling doesnt provide much help.


Thanks in advance.
 
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#7 · (Edited)
The big C-clamp style multi-functional tool (^^^) is the correct, non-destructive way to go. The illustration above shows the tool configured to press a ball joint INTO a control arm, but by configuring the various cups and adapters you can install and remove ball joints, uniball studs, wheel studs, etc. without resorting to any brute-force methods.

In your case, since you have apparently already severely deformed the end of the uniball stud through application of the "bigger hammer will fix it" approach, you may have to grind the end of the stud flat again so the tool doesn't slip off, and the deformed end of the stud can pass through the eye in the spindle.

These tools can usually be borrowed from the larger, chain auto supply stores after a hefty deposit.

(If you are stuck in the jungle, and have no access to the "right" tools, you can try another approach. The objective is to apply a shock load across the tapered hole in the spindle to break the interference fit of the tapered pin. Have a helper hold a heavy steel object (5 lb maul, 10 lb sledge hammer, etc.) tightly against the OPPOSITE side of the eye of the spindle, and strike a very sharp blow with at least a 5 lb maul on the spindle eye, directly opposing the head of the other tool. This will ensure that the energy of the strike is actually delivered into the eye of the spindle, and not just dissipated into moving the spindle.)
 
#8 ·
Slow down and set the hammers to the side. The tool OTC 7249 is only around a hundred dollars. Take a small side grinder with a cutting disc and remove the damaged threaded area , then cut the top off at the recessed bevel area. Then take a large socket that leaves a small amount and press it out. It only has to move a .001 or two and it will fall apart. You might be able to to get by with a heavy duty c-clamp and a socket, get some pressure on it with the c-clamp and pop with the hammer. The tool that FJtest recommended would work the best.
 
#12 ·
Thanks everyone for all the responses. I grabbed a tool from autozone prior to seeing all the suggested tools. This is more of a puller but figured it would work in the same fashion as a press.
Unfortunately, this tool had no effect with the combination of hammering the spindle, this is a bad pic because after this slipped off I ground the bolt flat and placed a socket to act as a coupling and ensured the bolt and tool were lined up perfectly.
Sadly the damn thing still did not help after cranking the hell out of it. I got fed up and decided to move to the passenger side and install my shocks and arms and wait to check back with the forums today to see what everybody suggested. I will see if my local autozone has the correct tool and ill cut off the top wide part of the bolt and try again. I really have no idea why this thing is so jammed in here. The passenger side came off no problem with the normal wack of the spindle.
 

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#13 · (Edited)
The little palm-sized gear puller shown in your latest photo will NOT work, it just doesn't have the capability to apply the level of force needed. It can apply (at best) a few hundred pounds of axial force, where the big C-clamp tool, with its 1"+ diameter, Acme-threaded clamp screw and 10lb forged, H-beam frame can apply thousands of pounds of force.

Try the "two opposed 5lb mauls" technique I proposed earlier, or better yet rent the BIG C-frame tool shown in Sparky's post. I GUARANTEE that will remove the stud.
 
#16 ·
Hello All,

Thank you so much for all the suggestions, I went to Autozone and get the "Ball Join Press" rental. I chopped off the top of the bolt and a little part of the bottom then applied the press. It worked AMAZINGLY. The tapered bolt literally shot up into the fender after a few cranks. I highly advise anybody in this situation to go rent this. It cost me $153 USD to rent but as soon as i bring it back i get the $153 back..

Thanks everyone again for all the help. Im so happy i finally got my shocks and arms back in, it feels like a new rig!!!
 

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#17 ·
I LOVE good endings :D
 
#18 ·
As do I.

I forgot to mention, the tip of the screw shaft (this sounds dirty but idk the official name) of the ball joint press is removable and you can put a smaller one in.
I struggled for about 20 mins trying to fit and position this massive tool onto the spindle without hitting the drive shaft for the 4WD and my buddy discovered that the 1.5 inch tip was removable for a much smaller one, this gave me the extra room to get the press directly under the bolt.
 
#21 ·
if the two surfaces were super clean and lined up just so they could have "welded" themselves together (gauge blocks can do that if you leave them next to each other over night, because their surfaces are so smooth), so a lot of force is necessary to separate

a little bit of anti-seize on the surface before assembly helps prevent that


They don't actually "weld" together, but some of the molecules co-mingle, which means the two surfaces were crazy close, so it wouldn't take much oil/grease to make a micro barrier to prevent reoccurrence.


Norm
 
#22 ·
The issue that I am having is that the 13mm 12 point bolt at the top of the uniball is absolutely stuck on. No matter what I do, I cannot seem to get it to budge at all. The nut and tapered bolt spins with it and even if i hold it with a vice grip, the tapered bolt still ends up spinning as I try to tun the 12 point bolt at the top. Would anyone have any suggestions on how to get this off?
 
#25 ·
I ended up giving the UCA's to my neighbor, who works in a machine shop (aka, I wont be able to take a picture). They are going to try and press out the ball joint from both sides so I can replace with the delta joint. In the Youtube video on removing this...Icon made it look so easy!

We tried everything, including taking a torch to the bolt and nothing would work.
 
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