Internal Hydraulic Slave Cylinder upgrade for 6 speeds - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Internal Hydraulic Slave Cylinder upgrade for 6 speeds

For the last few months I have been working with the company Clutch Masters to come up with a solution to the known issues the RA60/61 6-speed manual transmissions found in our rigs and Tacomas (among other international models) have. It's been well covered that the OE throwout bearing, fork, pivot ball, and slave cylinder was not the best engineered setup for longevity. If you have a 6 speed in your rig you've most likely dealt with a squeaking throwout bearing or are waiting for it to inevitably start happening, because most likely it will as detailed in this thread - https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...rp-squeak.html

Having used Clutch Masters hydraulic slave cylinders in other applications I knew one could be adapted to work with these transmissions. I am happy to say that I have been driving around with the Clutch Masters hydraulic slave cylinder in my rig for about a week now and am more then satisfied with how well it is performing. With the on and off road, regular street driving and slow speed crawling situations we find ourselves driving these trucks in, the slave cylinder has performed flawlessly during all of them. The pedal feel is slightly softer then OEM and the clutch is able to be very easily controlled and modulated depending on the driving style I am having to adapt to. This kit also gets rid of the fluid control valve that is synonymous with causing what I would call a "rev hang" when you are accelerating and shifting fast. I felt the the fluid control valve also deadens the feel of the clutch and while it's supposed to make the car easier to drive and operate the clutch, I feel it just doesn't really do anything beneficial and if anything for me always just made the clutch more difficult to feel where it was truly disengaging in the throw of the pedal.

I think this is a great option for anybody out there with the 6 speed manual and it is available now. I am sure some of you have not heard of Clutch Masters but they have been in the clutch game since late 70s. They have been making these hydraulic slave cylinders for many other applications for several years now so the design is proven. The internal slave cylinder is what most OE manufacturers have started to go with. This setup has less moving parts and really no parts that can wear out besides the throwout bearing. Since the throwout bearing isn't being preloaded against the diaphragm of the clutch like it is from the factory, there should be no reason the throwout bearing won't last for a very long time. The only other part is a proprietary o-ring that seals the hydraulic fluid in and a dust shield. The slave cylinder is machined to precise tolerances out of billet aluminum that has been Type 3 hard anodized so they are built to last and take abuse. There are many very high horsepower street, drift and drag cars out there using these slave cylinders and no failures to date. The kit will come with everything you need to install it including

Here is the link to the listing on Clutch Masters website and some pics of the install in my rig!

N16078-H (Tacoma/FJ RA60) - Clutch Masters






Installed a new Clutch Masters FX100 clutch while I had the transmission out since mine showed signs of serious wear to the diaphragm face from where the throwout bearing was riding against it constantly. This kit can be used with OEM or any other aftermarket replacement clutch.


Little video showing how the slave cylinder works as seen through the inspection hole.

If there is a lot of interest for this kit, I am sure I could get with Clutch Masters and organize some sort of group buy. Would like to hear everyone's thoughts on this though!
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Last edited by 406cruiser; 08-11-2019 at 01:09 PM. Reason: update links
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 06:44 PM
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Re: Internal Hydraulic Slave Cylinder upgrade for 6 speeds

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 08:07 PM
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I'd be interested.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:50 AM
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Re: Internal Hydraulic Slave Cylinder upgrade for 6 speeds

Any other mods required or is the balance of the OEM system good to go?

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Internal Hydraulic Slave Cylinder upgrade for 6 speeds

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Any other mods required or is the balance of the OEM system good to go?
No other mods required. It really is as straight forward as you see in the pictures. Remove your factory slave cylinder, clutch fork, pivot ball and the hardlines on the transmission. Although the line setup might change to retain the hardlines on the side of the transmission and just have a stainless line that goes to the fitting that connects to the fluid control valve and then just a stainless hard line that replaces the factory soft line going from the transmission to the body. Beyond that it's just taking a few measurements to make sure the throwout bearing has the correct clearance needed with the clutch and then bolting the new slave cylinder up, running the lines and bleeding the system. I did have to adjust the master cylinder pedal throw slightly inside to get it perfect but that's easy too. Once the bracket and spacer was all measured, modeled and machined it was a simple bolt on system.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 02:38 PM
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Re: Internal Hydraulic Slave Cylinder upgrade for 6 speeds

I was curious about the differences in design between the URD fix-U Hydro and the Clutch Master and found the video below discusses the air gap setting.

Some other differences:

fix-U Hydro
  • Not reversable (cut off your quill)
  • No air gap adjustment needed
  • Single hard line cable
  • Solution if quill has been destroyed
  • Not available

Clutch Master
  • Reversible
  • Need to measure and calculate air gap during install
  • Dual braided lines - more opportunity for leakage
  • Available

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 07:32 AM
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Re: Internal Hydraulic Slave Cylinder upgrade for 6 speeds

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406cruiser previously said: View Post
For the last few months I have been working with the company Clutch Masters to come up with a solution to the known issues the RA60/61 6-speed manual transmissions found in our rigs and Tacomas (among other international models) have. It's been well covered that the OE throwout bearing, fork, pivot ball, and slave cylinder was not the best engineered setup for longevity.

If there is a lot of interest for this kit, I am sure I could get with Clutch Masters and organize some sort of group buy. Would like to hear everyone's thoughts on this though!
I would be interested because my transmission is starting to make the dreaded squeaking sound, but for now it only happens when it is cold (<32 deg F). Do you think it is an easy installation for any transmission shop? So far dealing with local shops in Boise, Idaho, I do not feel confident that they can complete work they are not familiar with.

2012 TT 6MT: ICON Extended Travel Coil Overs, Icon Rear Lift, Total Chaos UCAs, MetalTech Rear LCAs, OPOR LCA Skids, Skyjacker Links, Demello Baja Bumper, Richochet/All Pro Skid Plates, Cooper STT Pro 285/75/16, Freedom Windows, Bandi CB Mount (for CB and HAM), 55W 5000k HIDs, Interior Zombie Lights.



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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Internal Hydraulic Slave Cylinder upgrade for 6 speeds

Quote:
FJTTSE previously said: View Post
I was curious about the differences in design between the URD fix-U Hydro and the Clutch Master and found the video below discusses the air gap setting.

Some other differences:

fix-U Hydro
  • Not reversable (cut off your quill)
  • No air gap adjustment needed
  • Single hard line cable
  • Solution if quill has been destroyed
  • Not available

Clutch Master
  • Reversible
  • Need to measure and calculate air gap during install
  • Dual braided lines - more opportunity for leakage
  • Available

Hyrdraulic Throwout Bearing Air Gap Setting - Mantic Clutch USA
Well I think with either the URD fix-u hydro kit or the Clutch Master kit, you're never going to go back to the OEM setup, but I do think cutting the quill off of the bell housing would be rather tricky without damaging the input shaft. I haven't really been able to find any thorough instructions on how the URD kit was setup, but they haven't offered it for quite some time now as far as I understand, sooo that basically only leaves the Clutch Master's option as the only available solution. I did also see people were having issues with properly bleeding the URD kit but again no idea how they setup the bleeder to work with that system so I can't say if they were performing the job correctly or if it was just a tricky setup.

If your "snout" or "quill" has been destroyed, well that really sucks, but from my research that is a very rare issue. It is by far nowhere near as common as the premature wearing and squeaking of the throwout bearing, which is the main goal the kit from Clutch Masters has set out to solve (as well as improve on the overall driving experience with the manual transmission). When I took my throwout bearing and clutch fork off I noticed that my snout had a slight mushroomed end to it from the throwout bearing wiggling around while it's spinning with the clutch. The Clutch Masters kit uses a spacer that is a very tight fit and at first it would not fit over the end of my snout, but I was able to tap it on there. If the snout is damaged and if you have at least I'd say 2" of good material left then the Clutch Masters kit could probably still be used because the main thing that is centering the slave cylinder around the snout is that spacer that slides all the way to the inner face of the bell housing and registers nice and tight on there. Then the actually slave cylinder is just held in place by the bracket. Pic below stolen from Clutch Masters website, but you can see the spacer and how that fits inside the slave cylinder.



Unlike the PDM press on snout and new throwout bearing update which I have seen people have issues with still breaking off their snout, I feel this could never happen with the Clutch Masters kit due to the physics at play. Unlike the clutch fork that is pushing the throwout bearing at what I can only say is an awkward angle, the Clutch Masters slave cylinder is pushing forward only.

Measuring and calculating the air gap is 3 very easy measurements. that any one with a caliper and a straight edge can obtain. Also by setting up the throwout bearing with an air gap you will never run into the issue that is causing these bearings to prematurely wear in the first place. Of course as I mentioned that is the bearing having preload applied to it and being constantly pressed up against the clutch diaphragm which is also how the URD kit would work. The pedal feel would most likely be improved with the URD internal hydraulic slave cylinder but you'd still have issues with the throwout bearing down the road.

Here are the instructions to installing any of the internal slave cylinders and getting the air gap correct: HYDRO BEARING INSTALL - Clutch Masters

As far as the stainless braided lines leaking, I see that as a mute point and something that would never be an issue. Because Clutch Master's makes a ton of these internal hydraulic slave cylinders, I know that they have a DOT certified hose manufacturing setup, they aren't just throwing these stainless lines together and sending them out the door. Each line and slave cylinder is bench tested to ensure there are zero leaks when the end user gets them. If you were to have a leak it would be because of improper installation and that would probably be as simple as the line not being tightened down.

Hopefully that clears up any thoughts/questions you might have had but I definitely appreciated the pros and cons list you came up with.

Last edited by 406cruiser; 08-21-2019 at 06:24 PM.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Internal Hydraulic Slave Cylinder upgrade for 6 speeds

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Zed 71 previously said: View Post
I would be interested because my transmission is starting to make the dreaded squeaking sound, but for now it only happens when it is cold (<32 deg F). Do you think it is an easy installation for any transmission shop? So far dealing with local shops in Boise, Idaho, I do not feel confident that they can complete work they are not familiar with.
Hey Zed, if you have a shop that is not able to properly install the internal hydraulic slave cylinder, then I feel like they should be considering another line of work. The install is absolutely straight forward and makes perfect sense. The only thing that takes a small bit of thought and some simple math is setting the air gap. Setting the air gap can all be accomplished with the transmission out of the rig the first time, you don't have to keep putting the transmission in and out to make sure your measurements are correct. In the post above I linked to the air gap instructions Clutch Master's provides on their website for all of their hydraulic slave cylinders, as setting them up is the exact same for every single application. I would understand the shop being a little bit wary of installing something like this without any instructions but that isn't the case and the instructions are crystal clear.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 08:18 AM
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Re: Internal Hydraulic Slave Cylinder upgrade for 6 speeds

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406cruiser previously said: View Post
Hey Zed, if you have a shop that is not able to properly install the internal hydraulic slave cylinder, then I feel like they should be considering another line of work. The install is absolutely straight forward and makes perfect sense. The only thing that takes a small bit of thought and some simple math is setting the air gap. Setting the air gap can all be accomplished with the transmission out of the rig the first time, you don't have to keep putting the transmission in and out to make sure your measurements are correct. In the post above I linked to the air gap instructions Clutch Master's provides on their website for all of their hydraulic slave cylinders, as setting them up is the exact same for every single application. I would understand the shop being a little bit wary of installing something like this without any instructions but that isn't the case and the instructions are crystal clear.
Thanks for the link . I will probably be looking at getting this done next year.

2012 TT 6MT: ICON Extended Travel Coil Overs, Icon Rear Lift, Total Chaos UCAs, MetalTech Rear LCAs, OPOR LCA Skids, Skyjacker Links, Demello Baja Bumper, Richochet/All Pro Skid Plates, Cooper STT Pro 285/75/16, Freedom Windows, Bandi CB Mount (for CB and HAM), 55W 5000k HIDs, Interior Zombie Lights.



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