DIY Auto Transmission flush? - Page 25 - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
Transmissions / Transfer Cases / Traction Aids This area is for discussion, questions and problems with the FJ Cruiser's gear train, including topics on A-TRAC, VSC, locking diffs, gear ratios, manual vs. AT, etc.

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post #241 of 481 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 12:46 PM
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re: DIY Auto Transmission flush?

Please...Please can we get a moderator to fix the spelling of this thread title to read "tranSmission" instead of "tranmission"!!!!

Took me forever to find this thread again while searching... as I will be doing this shortly with the aid of 1911 at his shop.

that is all.
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post #242 of 481 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 07:02 PM
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re: DIY Auto Transmission flush?

I recently completed this DIY ATF change using the information in this and other threads. In the interest of helping others, I thought I'd post some of my experiences and a few pictures and videos detailing the process.

First some of the other resources (besides this thread) that helped along the way:
This post helped me determine which transmission plugs I would be working with (pictures from a 4Runner, but the setup is the same):
T4R Transmission Fluid Servicing (sealed & non-sealed) - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

This post helped me figure out how to jumper the OBD port to measure the ATF temperature (used for your final fluid level check):
THE OFFICIAL HOW TO: ATF Drain and Fill - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

This post helped me determine which transmission line to detach from the radiator, and helped explain the whole process:
DIY: Full Automatic Transmission Flush - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Alright, on to the tools I used:
A container with fluid volume markings (or any old container that you can fill with 2 quarts of fluid to mark off the 2 quart level). This particular container was purchased at NAPA for the ridiculous price of $26, however I really liked the stability its base provided and the various measurement markings.


About 4 feet of 1/2"ID x 5/8"OD clear tubing, with a funnel that fits it. I purchased this at Home Depot for about $10. I marked the transmission end of the tube with several wraps of electrical tape at the 1 inch mark. You don't want the tubing to go into the transmission further than this, and the tape provides both a quick visual check and a mechanical stop for preventing this.


About 4 feet of 1/4"ID x 3/8"OD clear plastic tubing. Also purchased at Home Depot for about $10.


Pliers, zip-ties, and electrical tape. These will be used to secure the funnel and tubing.


Torque wrench for torquing the various bolts back to spec. I have been using this Husky wrench from Home Depot (~$70, 3/8" drive) for various FJ tasks and it has been very solid.


Various 3/8" sockets and socket wrench. For this project I used: 24mm, 14mm, 12mm, and a 5mm hex head. The sockets are Husky brand with exception of the 24mm, which I purchased individually at NAPA for about $5 or so (an employee had to pull it out of a complete set). A 15/16 inch socket also works very well, so depending on your truck you could try either a 24mm or the 15/16.


Oil drain pan (no picture). This is what I emptied my 2 quart measuring cup into. I recycled the oil (for free) at O'Reilly's Auto Parts.

Next up was locating and removing the transmission fill port. Using the official service manual and the threads mentioned above, I was able to locate and remove the fill plug. You will know you have the right bolt if it says "WS" on it.


Here is a picture of the fill port with the 1/2"ID tubing inserted. You are looking up at the transmission from the passenger side, with the rear of the vehicle towards the bottom of the picture.


Another angle showing the black electrical tape at the 1 inch mark.


This is how I routed the tubing towards the front of the vehicle (the engine bay is towards the brightly lit area).


Routing the tubing up through the engine bay, and attaching the funnel.


I secured the funnel to the hood with zip-ties. This proved to be super helpful in making sure everything stayed put.


Next was disconnecting the proper ATF return line from the radiator. I struggled with figuring out which line to disconnect, but using the above threads I was finally able to determine which line to unplug. For reference, I disconnected the return line from the passenger side of the car. The threads above (especially the bottom link I posted) have great pictures and descriptions of which hose to disconnect if my pictures aren't clear enough.

This is how I secured the 1/4"ID hose to the metal outlet fitting once I disconnected the hose attached to it. The 1/4"ID tubing was fairly difficult to attach, so I placed it over my needle nose pliers and pulled the handle apart to stretch out the tubing. The hose that I disconnected was folded up against the plastic radiator housing so that it wouldn't leak all over the ground. (Note: I don't think the zip-ties are necessary. There isn't much pressure in this line). In this picture I am lying on my back looking up into the engine bay, with the front of the vehicle to the bottom of the picture.


Another angle, you are looking at the driver's side tire.


And another angle, similar to that above.

Here is another view, showing the drain tubing connected and being routed to the driver side of the vehicle. The rear of the vehicle is to the back left.

The drain hose was routed over to the driver's side of the vehicle so I could watch the old ATF draining while I was in the truck.

Now on the driver's side, I taped the drain tubing into my measuring container so it wouldn't fall out. I also placed a line of black electrical tape at the 2 quart mark so I could easily tell when I had drained about 2 quarts. The oil drain pan was also close by for emptying the drained ATF from the measurement container.

At this point I was able to start the truck and allow the transmission's fluid pump to do all the hard work. This was the part of the process I was most apprehensive about as I thought the fluid was going to drain much faster than it did.

After draining 2 quarts, I would fill exactly 2 quarts of oil into the funnel. I would then empty the 2 quarts from my measuring container into the oil drain pan. I repeated this cycle until the fluid started coming out cherry red, which occurred after about 10 or 12 quarts of new fluid. On a few of the drain cycles I moved the transmission gears through their range a few times for good measure.

Once the fluid was cherry red, it was time to check the fluid level. I jumpered the OBD port as described in one of my links above and performed the ATF temperature check sequence. Once I got the correct sequence of lights to turn on, I left the engine to idle until the ATF light lit up indicating the transmission was at the proper temperature for level measurement. It took maybe 5 minutes for the light to come on.

I then left the vehicle running (with tires blocked and the e-brake engaged, with the truck in Park) and crawled under the truck. I removed the fluid check bolt (shown clearly in one of the above links) and let the ATF drain out until it was just a dribble, then re-torqued the plug to spec. I would say maybe 1/2 quart came out. I then re-torqued the fill plug as well.

Hopefully this helps anyone who is trying to decide if they can do this project. I thought it was about as easy as an oil change, it just took longer. I did use Amsoil for better or worse

Let me know if you have any questions or if you notice that I buggered something up.

-Dave
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Last edited by dave3533; 10-14-2017 at 11:10 PM.
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post #243 of 481 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 08:42 PM
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Re: DIY Auto Transmission flush?

Very nice job!


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post #244 of 481 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 09:55 PM
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Re: DIY Auto Transmission flush?

X2! Great update. I'll be doing this in the morning.

Oh, and thanks Baz for updating the title! Too easy mate!

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post #245 of 481 (permalink) Old 08-15-2014, 04:19 AM
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Re: DIY Auto Transmission flush?

Quote:
USA4X4 previously said: View Post
Very nice job!
X2, I love those sockets you have, very easy to read the size.

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post #246 of 481 (permalink) Old 08-15-2014, 07:02 AM
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Re: DIY Auto Transmission flush?

@dave3533 :

What a first post - excellent write up!

Thanks a million for the links, pics, and video sir!

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post #247 of 481 (permalink) Old 08-15-2014, 11:21 AM
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Re: DIY Auto Transmission flush?

Anyone else have issues jumping the obdii port and getting it in the temp check mode?

Following the FSM... says after jumping, to cycle between N and D for 1.5 intervals for six seconds... that the at/temp light should flash at that point telling you you're in the mode.

Been trying that w/o luck.

Any suggestions? Double checked my jumper is good already.

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post #248 of 481 (permalink) Old 08-15-2014, 01:18 PM
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Re: DIY Auto Transmission flush?

Ok, I got it in the test mode.

I watched the video in the second link in post 242. I was shifting too slow between N and D.

Now waiting for the trans to cool down. (keep getting the flashing AT/Temp light)

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post #249 of 481 (permalink) Old 08-15-2014, 05:15 PM
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Re: DIY Auto Transmission flush?

Just to repost this near the end...


Quote:
istambull previously said: View Post
Didn't see some of this mentioned anywhere else, sorry if I missed it.

Torque Specs
refill plug 29 ft.lbf
overflow/check 15 ft.lbf (found conflicting data for this plug, it was 15 in one .pdf and 21 in another)
pan drain 15 ft.lbf

A/T Oil Temp Jumper Notes
In addition to the A/T Oil Temp light illuminating at 115 the following will flash throughout the entire process.
ABS
VSC TRAC
CRUISE

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post #250 of 481 (permalink) Old 08-15-2014, 09:11 PM
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Re: DIY Auto Transmission flush?

@bc_indiana , how'd the process go for you? Sorry I didn't see your posts until now, glad you got the OBD port process working.

@Natetroknot thanks! I've been a long time lurker, but I saw an opportunity to strike and took it

@RomaBoy thanks, I updated post 242 to include a little more about the sockets for anyone that is curious.

Last edited by dave3533; 08-15-2014 at 09:19 PM.
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