Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

Powder coating vs trd rims

3K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  Sky 
#1 ·
I wanted to get some feedback and see if I’m overlooking anything. My 2008 base fj has stock wheels. I’ve seen plenty of pictures of others that have powder coated their wheels and they look pretty good. The issue is that most powder coating places want them removed from the tire and take several days to complete the process. Also I have to find a place to leave my on a lift for a few days. The only place I’ve found is a place in a not so great part of town. So my question(s) are- what does everyone thing about just buying the trd’s and sell my old wheels? Is there enough of a market to do that? Or maybe just buy identical wheels, have them powder coated and then sell my old ones? What’s the best bang for my buck? Am I overlooking anything that would make a difference? Thanks.

https://www.elitecustomrims.com/pro...xvEAQYASABEgJiEvD_BwE#shopify-product-reviews
 
#5 ·
Tip about powder coating: make sure whoever does it for you does ALL of the prep steps so that it will actually stick.

Typical aftermarket parts come powdercoated, but then that peels off in sheets after one or two years on the road (typical: rock rails, trailer hitch, bumpers, roof racks, etc.).
This is because powdercoating relies on a very specific set of steps to prepare the substrate so that the coating can even stick. Powdercoating is typically a nylon coat that bonds excellently to itself, but by nature doesn't bond well to what it is applied to, hence comes off in sheets after the first scratch.


Not very many shops can apply it well enough to last beyond just a couple of years. In mass production it is amazing how much work is done to get every aspect of it dialed in (part shape is also a factor, so each part creates new challenges).


Norm
 
#7 ·
I tried powdercoating mine in 2010. The first time I got into a gravel road I got a few small chips. When SWMBO clipped a curb, I lost about 3" of paint off the rim edge. TBH, she hates my Hell***** and was just going to the grocery, but there it is...LOL I am running the silvery stock wheels, but found a guy who is selling me his 2013 pristine wheels for $75 and my rear seat headrests.

I painted a friends FJ wheels with wheel paint, black, and left the center hub out. I also masked off the outer part of the rim, where the golf-ball-like divots are - because the guys at tire shops don't care if your wheel paint comes off when they pop a tire off or on. That was a few years back. My buddy had to touch-up a few times by sanding some chips out with 220 grit and repaint. But overall, it was waay cheaper than a powdercoat job, since wheel paint takes about 3 cans of paint at about $12 a can.

My debate is whether to use Raptor poly or Bed Armor on the new wheels or just wheel paint. The bedliner can be touched up pretty easily without even the sanding, and it has stayed on my front grill and bumper really well.
Sounds to me like the parts were never grounded electrically, which makes the positively charged powder coating actually bond, and then adhere while in the oven.

To the OP, It can get quite expensive to powder coat existing wheels, ask me how I know. :rolleyes: In the end, if you like the TRD wheels and they are cheaper than prepping and coating your existing used wheels, it seems kind of like a no brainer.
 
#6 ·
I tried powdercoating mine in 2010. The first time I got into a gravel road I got a few small chips. When SWMBO clipped a curb, I lost about 3" of paint off the rim edge. TBH, she hates my Hell***** and was just going to the grocery, but there it is...LOL I am running the silvery stock wheels, but found a guy who is selling me his 2013 pristine wheels for $75 and my rear seat headrests.

I painted a friends FJ wheels with wheel paint, black, and left the center hub out. I also masked off the outer part of the rim, where the golf-ball-like divots are - because the guys at tire shops don't care if your wheel paint comes off when they pop a tire off or on. That was a few years back. My buddy had to touch-up a few times by sanding some chips out with 220 grit and repaint. But overall, it was waay cheaper than a powdercoat job, since wheel paint takes about 3 cans of paint at about $12 a can.

My debate is whether to use Raptor poly or Bed Armor on the new wheels or just wheel paint. The bedliner can be touched up pretty easily without even the sanding, and it has stayed on my front grill and bumper really well.
 
#9 ·
I wouldn't count on it....if you live in the rust belt, perhaps a good set with good clear coat on it still would bring more but that's not my neck of the woods, so I really don't know. Here, in the Rockies, they're everywhere for cheap because we've all swapped ours out for aftermarket or TRDs. Wheels come in 3 grades used, 2 and 3s don't bring as much coin as 1s. A quick search on ebay can get you in the ball park for condition.
 
#10 ·
No - the wheels were tapped on the back sides and grounded with sheet metal screws into the aluminum.
Fact is - powder coating is great until you get a fissure, crack or ding in it. Then it spreads rather quickly with the high CTE of aluminum. Steel is better powder coat material for that very reason alone.

Powder coating is best for things that aren't in the weather or taking a beating. Methinks there is a valid reason we use bedliner on bumpers and such in lieu of powder coating.

Then again, each of us have had differing experiences and live in various climates across the planet. I just tend to steer clear of powder coating as repairing it is expensive, while paint and bedliners are not...
 
#11 ·
Actually, tons of mass production automotive parts are powder coated and it stays stuck for the life of the vehicle, even aluminum. Grounding is easy, the challenge is the chemistry of each layer, at each stage of the process of preparing the surface: first the aluminum is treated by anodizing, or any of a host of catalytic chemical treatments, and then an e-coat primer is applied to seal and bond to the aluminum, and then the powder coat on top of that. In between each stage the part is cleaned with de-ionized water and fully dried. Miss any of the steps, by even a few degrees and its peeling off in sheets.

Most aftermarket parts are powder coated directly onto whatever, so exposure to the elements plus a scratch it comes right off.


N
 
#13 ·
That last sentence pretty much sums up my personal experiences with powder coating in this last decade. I had to strip to frame and sandblast 2 of my ATVs due to powdercoat going buh-bye and rust starting. I went back with traditional anti-rust primer and enamel, which can be touched up when needed - the biggest downfall of powdercoating, IMHO.

I also know that aluminum hates most paint anyway. I have had better luck with anodized aluminum, but it has the same issue - cannot be touched up after it gets scratched without ridiculous expense and part removal and super-cleaning...
 
#14 ·
We sandblasted my wheels prior to powder coating, which are cast, not forged. This helped in the adhesion process, but as you stated @longtooth, aluminum is hard to get anything to stick to. We are repainting the aluminum fascia of my shop right now, and are using metal prep with a self etching compound. Hopefully this will last longer than the 10 or so years the last paint lasted. We'll see.
 
#15 ·
good luck then....and you can always paint it later if it goes bad.

we used self-etching primer on some galvanized tin after washing with dawn soap and letting sit for 6 months. We painted it with enamel, and it peeled in areas after 3 yrs.

Talked with a guy who 'ages' tin to sell to bars and architects as "old barn tin". He uses battery acid diluted down, and sprays that on the tin. Leaves it on longer for more 'aging'.

We have decided we are going to use this, sprayed on the new tin, then washed with lots of water and primed and painted again. I am wondering if using dilute acid would not be better than self-etching primer, as it would surely cut through any oxidation and get to raw metal and etch it more vigorously..?
 
#17 ·
It sounds like you are experimenting, trying to re-invent the wheel. What you're proposing might work, or it might not.

My suggestions?

Longtooth, google, "How to paint galvanized steel" and see what comes up. There are dedicated primers, and galvanized surface prep solutions that should be able to save you some trial and error.

Cabin Cruiser, google, "How to paint cast aluminum" (ditto). (note: do NOT apply acid to your bare aluminum, or you could be left with no wheel left)

Following tried and true procedures, and using products developed specifically for painting what you're planning to paint, will most likely give you the very best results.


N
I actually did google how to prep galvanized steel for paint a few weeks ago just to quiz the painter on how he was going to prep the building and parts that are contracted to be painted. His answers were on par with most of what I read. Fortunately for me, all I have to do is write the check. Interior/exterior paint is the one thing I just won't do anymore. Oh and roofing, I did plenty of that as a kid. I'm done with that crap. :lol:
 
#16 ·
It sounds like you are experimenting, trying to re-invent the wheel. What you're proposing might work, or it might not.

My suggestions?

Longtooth, google, "How to paint galvanized steel" and see what comes up. There are dedicated primers, and galvanized surface prep solutions that should be able to save you some trial and error.

Cabin Cruiser, google, "How to paint cast aluminum" (ditto). (note: do NOT apply acid to your bare aluminum, or you could be left with no wheel left)

Following tried and true procedures, and using products developed specifically for painting what you're planning to paint, will most likely give you the very best results.


N
 
#18 ·
LOL - sounds that way from what I wrote, but the primer we used was supposedly for priming tin. It just didn't work.

I have had zero issues with painting old tin we re-used for a wainscot thing outside the building - it's just new tine we are having issues with, and failure of 'specialty products'...

I'm gonna try the acid and rinse rinse rinse. I have some weeds to kill in my crushed concrete driveway anyway, and there is no water-proofing issue if the tin is thin - it's more decorative than anything else. We used leftover pieces from the main roof and barns to do the wainscot effect. You can see every bit of the new tin, because it is shedding paint like a snake.

I Gargle many things, but have been noticing that Gargle seems to be placing their links to specific companies - probably for a fee. Same thing Amazon does I reckon.

Thanks norm!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top