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Discussion Starter #1
First off, thanks ! This forum has saved me a thousand times.
now for the headache . I am the proud second owner of a 2007 fj cruiser with 150k miles. I’ve had for over 65k. Other than basic repairs , it’s been trouble free. I’ve always had the rear end bump when coming to a stop but mastered the art of avoiding it. Local driving means no overdrive! Problem solved.
But,,,, yesterday the thud was louder . And then the truck sounded like it’s on mud terrains. I couldn’t find the problem but suspected the rear diff. Took it to a shop, and all they did was replace the fluid and said they could do no more. I love my fj but can’t seem to find anyone in the 10950 that will touch the rear. Any recommendations ? Also, when I picked it up and first pulled away it sounded as if on mud tires but as I drove it more the sound started to leave and I didn’t get the mud tire feel. But when I go from start to stop it duplicates the prior statement. This truck has never been abused or off road. Any ideas? please help. Need my wheels and especially now that the snow is coming and it’s looking to kick me while I’m down.
 

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If it truly is the rear I would 100% trust ECGS to set it up. It is not a hard job at all if you buy their third member. I could probably swap one out in 2 hours. If you could find a shop that is willing to swap the third member as opposed to setting up the gears this could easily work. Good luck.
 

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How often do you lubricate the U-joints and driveshaft slip-joint?

When "the shop" changed the diff lube, were they smart enough to carefully examine the magnet on the drain plug, and evaluate the type and quantity of magnetic debris clinging to the magnet?

Hopefully you are aware of the weaknesses of early '07 rear diffs, and have been saving up for eventual rebuild/replacement IF a catastrophic failure occurs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If it truly is the rear I would 100% trust ECGS to set it up. It is not a hard job at all if you buy their third member. I could probably swap one out in 2 hours. If you could find a shop that is willing to swap the third member as opposed to setting up the gears this could easily work. Good luck.
i will call Ecgs. if it’s a two hour job, maybe I’ll do it myself. The only problem is the dam cold is here and I’m getting a little old to be laying on my back with cold wrenches in my hand. I’m going to see if I can find a few videos to see what’s involved . What was the most difficult part of the swap.
thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How often do you lubricate the U-joints and driveshaft slip-joint?

When "the shop" changed the diff lube, were they smart enough to carefully examine the magnet on the drain plug, and evaluate the type and quantity of magnetic debris clinging to the magnet?

Hopefully you are aware of the weaknesses of early '07 rear diffs, and have been saving up for eventual rebuild/replacement IF a catastrophic failure occurs.
they claimed no shavings found. Unfortunately wasn’t aware of the flaw but it is what it is.
 

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if there was nothing on the magnet, then I'd first suspect the sliding joint on the driveshaft hasn't been lubed and that's sticking - it is the one right in the center of this photo, pump in grease in there.

For bonus points, disconnect the flange from the transfer case, push it all of the way into the driveshaft, and then pump until it starts to extend again, then pull it back into place and confirm the exposed surface is all shiny with new grease.

FYI: the zerk for the U joint is visible just to the left of the sliding spline one.
 

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The hardest part is probably messing with the 70 lb whirling gearset of death under your vehicle. You don't even have to disconnect the brake lines if you use a hacksaw to notch the brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So the saga continues... I took it to another place and they suspect the transfer case. I will be bringing it back tomorrow morning for further inspection. I did go back to the first shop , now they say there were metal sand like shavings in the rear diff. I confirmed that they did change the oil in both diffs and the transfer case. Anyone have any idea where I can get a diagram of the transfer case. again , thanks for all the help and advice.
 

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"Took it to a shop ... took it to another place ..."

Are any of these "places" Toyota dealerships or 4WD specialists with LOTS of experience dealing with Toyota truck drivelines?

If not, it sounds like you are dealing with "parts replacers" who have no idea how to perform the meticulous troubleshooting needed to diagnose driveline problems.

Toyota transfer cases are very reliable unless they are run without lubricant, or an AT model (with part-time 4WD system )is run for extended periods of time or at high speed on pavement.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Separated the drive shaft from the diff and didn't notice the noise. Removed the transfer case and we are trying to locate a rebuild kit or a used one. The shop I took it to isn’t a Toyota dealership or Toyota specialist , hard to find a Toyota specialist by me. The second has experience with borg Warner transfer cases
found a place online, carpartsource.com. Just trying to figure out if they are legit.
 

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Separated the drive shaft from the diff and didn't notice the noise. Removed the transfer case and we are trying to locate a rebuild kit or a used one. The shop I took it to isn’t a Toyota dealership or Toyota specialist , hard to find a Toyota specialist by me. The second has experience with borg Warner transfer cases
found a place online, carpartsource.com. Just trying to figure out if they are legit.
So it’s not the 3rd member? Even when I took out my bad 3rd member and set it on the bench I couldn’t tell it was bad. It was dead silent and smooth. But after replacing it, it definitely was the sound I was hearing.


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