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Sockless Superstar
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Yesterday was the day that I did my 5,000 mile oil change, tire rotation, and Scepter can gas swap (putting the gas from my cans into the FJ and refilling the cans)

I went to buy oil and filter in the morning and saw the Mobil1 0W30. I've been running Mobil 1 5W30. I remembered reading nothing but good reports about it exceeding standards here and in Europe, especially for cold starts.

I realize I am not in a climate where it gets 20 below zero (at least not more than a couple of days a year), and that the warm weather rating is the same, so I had no NEED to switch. I just thought I would give it a try.

After EVERY oil change my mind believes (and it could just be in my mind) that the engine feels slicker at start up and accelerating. This was no different.

I'll keep you posted on anything different that I notice, but I really doubt that I'll notice anything different at all (which is also good) :cheers:
 

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I personally use Mobil 1 0W-20 in my Prius and Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40 in my FJ. I first started using 0W-30 in the early 1980's as a winter oil, back then it was called Esso XD-3 Arctic and was a heavy duty oil. Nothing but good results

A lot of folks simply don't understand oil. At both the normal viscosity test at +100 C, and the high temp high shear test at +150 C, a 5W-30 and a 0W-30 will be within 5% or less variation. Indeed, according to Mobil's own testing, the 0W-30 will test slightly "thicker" at normal temps than their M1 5W-30

If somebody is worried about a "thin" 0W-30, try Castrol Syntec 0W-30. This oil is Made in Germany, meets an impressive list of ACEA specs, and is one of the "thicker" xW-30 oils out there

Congratualtions on joining the modern age.
 

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Sockless Superstar
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Thanks Jayman. I'm one of the ignorant ones :lol: but have read your posts here on the forum and it was enough for me to step up. :)
 

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Hi, Dragon. I used to work at Mobil on M1. While I'm not an engineer, I'm more than a little dangerous with what (little) I do know. Anyway, you are totally fine w/the 0w-30. Actually, it's really good stuff as is the 0w-40 M1 another poster has mentioned, and you should see nominal improvements in fuel economy.

Syntec is hydrocracked so, according to U.S. law, Castrol can say it is synthetic (don't believe they can in Germany, though). Personally, I'm warmer and fuzzier with Mobil 1 and their processes/additives, etc., but, hey, I'm naturally biased, too.
 

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This sounds like another thread that will turn to how great mobil one is...

Personally I have used Mobil 1 5w-30 since the first oil change and had no regrets. The motor feels like its actually getting stronger with more than 41k on the clock.
 

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This sounds like another thread that will turn to how great mobil one is...

Personally I have used Mobil 1 5w-30 since the first oil change and had no regrets. The motor feels like its actually getting stronger with more than 41k on the clock.
You're right, Canito. I stopped myself, though (or at least tried), as I've been in the business too long to know how annoying it can be to be preached to.
 

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However, on the other side of the coin, my dad has a '92 BMW 535 with over 350,000 and the motor has always had dino castrol 10w30 changes at 5,000 mile intervals. Our mechanic regularly sees these motors go over 500,000 without having to be touched.

Its by far his favorite car among the ten or so others he has had along with it, even an M3, Boxster, 330coupe, or cooper S have not stayed in the garage longer than 2 years... he loves that stinkin' thing
 

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However, on the other side of the coin, my dad has a '92 BMW 535 with over 350,000 and the motor has always had dino castrol 10w30 changes at 5,000 mile intervals. Our mechanic regularly sees these motors go over 500,000 without having to be touched.

Its by far his favorite car among the ten or so others he has had along with it, even an M3, Boxster, 330coupe, or cooper S have not stayed in the garage longer than 2 years... he loves that stinkin' thing
sorry for hijacking...
 

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Way to go Dragon, I've got the same stuff sitting on my workbench waiting for the next change.

DEWFPO
 

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Before the FJ, I had a New Beetle Turbo S. I ran Mobil-1 0w-40 in it and sent a sample in to Blackstone Labs to have it checked. After about 5K, that oil sheared badly. I switched to Castrol Syntec 0w-30 and never had the problem again. I stockpiled alot of the Syntec and so I had it laying around when I bought the FJ. I've been using it in the FJ since 5K with no problems. The only thing about the Syntec is that it is not rated as Energy Conserving and I did drop about 1 mpg. After my stockpile of 0w-30 is gone, I was planning on trying Syntec 5w-30 to see if I gained any mpg back.
 

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My info maybe old....maybe its just the backwards kind of thinking I get for being not too mechanically inclined but a mechanic once told me that if you changed your dino at the 5000km point (3000mi)....Did your driveline greasing and swapped out the pumpkin fluid every year then you would get a long happy life out of any Toyota vehicle. I have not run synthetics .....YET!!!! But you guys may just convince me.
 

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I personally use Mobil 1 0W-20 in my Prius and Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40 in my FJ. I first started using 0W-30 in the early 1980's as a winter oil, back then it was called Esso XD-3 Arctic and was a heavy duty oil. Nothing but good results...........]


Jayman, just a question, why did you choose 0W-40 over 0W-30? My reason for asking is that I am not very familiar yet with the FJ engine, but I had an interesting issue with an Infinity Q45, which has a very fine V8 variable timing engine and very high RPM, and I started using 5W-40 and had problems with the valve lifters and everything went back to normal when I went back to 5W-30.
 

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Before the FJ, I had a New Beetle Turbo S. I ran Mobil-1 0w-40 in it and sent a sample in to Blackstone Labs to have it checked. After about 5K, that oil sheared badly.
That's why I firmly believe in used oil analysis, it's the only way to know - absolutely that is - how a given oil will perform in your motor.

The Syntec 0W-30 appears to meet the same specs as M1 0W-40. It's a "thick" 30 oil, but has proven protection. IMHO a 1 mpg tradeoff for much better engine protection is worth it
 

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a mechanic once told me that if you changed your dino at the 5000km point (3000mi)
I just think it's kinda dumb that we in North America have the shortest oil change intervals on the planet. True enough, if you never drive in temps colder than -25 C, and change a conventional oil often, the motor should last a long time with minimal issues. Keeping in mind the API spec has no requirement to prevent cold stuck rings, cold black sludge, etc

When Toyota got burned by sludged up motors, they could have insisted on using a better quality oil. Instead, they universially lowered the oil change interval from 12 months/7,500 miles to 6 months/5,000 miles

If all dealership oil is as bad as the crap I had sampled from my dealership, a 3,000 mile interval would be far more appropriate
 

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Jayman, just a question, why did you choose 0W-40 over 0W-30?
I sampled the factory oil and it had badly sheared before 3,000 km. They changed to a Valvoline 5W-30 - I watched and they put in each litre bottle of it - and it also badly sheared by 5,000 km.

I tried some Esso XD-3 0W-40 I had left over from the hobby farm and it had zero shear after 5,000 km. Being primarily intended for HD diesel operation I was concerned the additives might not be compatible with the O2 sensors and catalytic converters. Local sale on Mobil 1 0W-40 so I stocked up and am now using that

Interesting about the VVT issue. A 5W-40 is usually considered a "thick" or heavy duty version, a 0W-40 is usually a thinner or light duty version. The primary difference is in HTHS viscosity.

If that motor is so sensitive to viscosity, I wonder what would happen if you tried to operate it in temps of -30 C and colder?
 

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WOW.....
"change your dino at 5,000"
"HTHS viscocity"
"sheared oil"

I apparently have a whole lot of learnin' to do when it comes to engine oil and the terminology!!

Time to start reading.....
 

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jayman, let me share with you and the group my experience with the Infinity Q45 engine. I think there is some value in it. As I mentioned, I changed from 5W-30 to 5W-40, and after 2000 miles or so the engine started with a rough idle and got worse to the point that only performed well above 3500 RPM. It was so long after the oil change, that there was no reason to suspect that. To make the story short, it got to the point that the dealer offered to buy the car back. But I wanted my car, not the money back. It was in a forum like this, that a guy from Australia told me to replace the oil with ATF oil, YES ATF OIL (he mentioned something about detergents), to pour the red stuff in my engine and run it for 100 miles. I thought he was kidding me. The worst part is that he would not explain why. But after a quick search I found out that the guy was champion car racer in Australia with this engine, so I follow his advice. WOW, after only 25 miles my car felt like never before:clap:. I thought I should keep running it on that stuff. He later explained that it had to do with the VVT system and valve lifters staying "inflated" after heavy acceleration because of the thicker oil. Got to use 0W-30 ever since.
 

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I too chose to go with a 0W-30, but I chose Amsoil. I am coming up on 3000 miles and will have an oil analysis performed by Blackstone Labs as well as making the switch to Amsoil. I will post the results of the initial analysis as well as the future analysis with the 0W-30 oil.
 

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WOW.....
"change your dino at 5,000"
"HTHS viscocity"
"sheared oil"

I apparently have a whole lot of learnin' to do when it comes to engine oil and the terminology!!

Time to start reading.....
You and me both! I've learned so much from this forum already, but I'm lost on this...

Dragon, I love the title to your post. See I would have thought that, in celebration, you took a little bath in oil. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
 
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