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Had to do some research for the higher out put alternator and since I didn’t want to pay close to $500 for an aftermarket and needless to say they are extremely unreliable and they have been multiple failures reported on this forum and other forums regardless of brand.

So long story short, the 2010 4Runner has the same engine as the 2010 plus model year Fj.

Also the 2010 4Runner has 2 options for the alternator, one with 100 Amp and 130 Amp for the fully loaded 4Runner.

I have measured the bolt pattern and they are the same.

I have found one with low miles on ebay from NY for $100.00 out a totaled 2014 4Runner with 35K miles.

I have clean the brushes/holder and they looked pretty good.

For now I will keep it in the truck as a spare till I need it.

For the 2007 till 2009 Fj, which also has been discussed before on this forum which is out of Toyota Tacoma with 130 Amp.

Here is a part number for 2010+Fj & 4Runner.
27060-31190 130 Amp

Here is a part for 2007 till 2009 model year Fj.
27060-0P020 130 Amp

2010 \/ \/ \/


2007 till 2009 \/ \/ \/



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Edited. I figured it out. Thx . I found one on ebay for $65 from a 2015 Taco with 29,000 miles.

My alternator is running at 13.9v. Although its within spec. Its at the low end and 205k miles and 10yrs old.
 

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The Tacoma one for the earlier FJs is super easy. I grabbed one from the parts store for about $80 new. They are cheaper than the 100A!

So far so good. Pumps out 14.2V right after start and around 13.9 driving.

My headlights do now dim when I initially hit the brakes. I am wondering if my battery is next..
 

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Ill do that. I guess I should note that is on an UltraGauge...so I have no clue about where exactly those numbers come from.

The lights dim when the brake booster kicks in. Hopefully it is ok.
 

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Ill do that. I guess I should note that is on an UltraGauge...so I have no clue about where exactly those numbers come from.

The lights dim when the brake booster kicks in. Hopefully it is ok.

Could be a dead or dying cell in the battery too.
 

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Its Photobucket's fault, the bastards quit hosting 3rd party pictures unless you pay a premium, which made a mess of every forum on the web. I now upload my pictures directly through the Tapatalk app.


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Thanks @HERSOG. I was able to snag an OEM alt pretty cheap. It says 35k miles on the Tacoma but highly doubtful. Thanks for sharing!


You’re welcome.

Cheers


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I found a 27060-31190 130 Amp Alternator off a 2011 Toyota 4-Runner with 80k miles that has been bench tested and is in excellent condition.
I stopped to get it and the salvage yard salesman says his notes indicate that they will not work on a Toyota FJ.
He was concerned about burning something up with the extra 30 amps of available capacity.

Is this a direct swap or do I need to add anything else to upgrade from a 100 amp to a 130 amp alternator?
Are there any risks or is it a simple remove and replace and all plugs work as if replacing with a factory new 100 amp alternator?

Thanks
Pat
 

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@MtGoat nobody has fried anything that I'm aware of and people have been running these for awhile. I have yet to put my winch under load but with my big air compressor it runs fine still. The ALT fuse for the FJC is 120 amps, and the one for the 4runner is 140 amps.

One thought is to replace the fuse with the bigger one, but then you run the risk of frying something that was possibly not made for the increase in current. The other thought is to keep the 120 amp fuse and only blow the fuse if something out of the ordinary happens. Otherwise yes, its a completely direct swap, no mods needed.
 
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