Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
I'm having similar issues and will put the truck on a lift tomorrow. This all started after I installed new rear springs and Bilstein 5100s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
After looking at the new Sway-A-Way rear springs we found that they were not seating all the way in the cups on the frame. Diameter too large or out of round, they don't bottom out in the cups. Now I know why MountainView said they were too big. They bind and pop. Victor knocked them up into the cups with a punch. I'm going back on Monday to see if they are still seated. I may be changing to these, Eibach 1" lift, which is all I want:

Lifting the front end was easy. The rear end rides well but the popping sounds are not right. I'm willing to bet that alot of the aftermarket parts don't fit right. The Sway-A-Way springs were not cheap either. I think I'm re-learning a lesson: Leave it stock or be ready to accept the consequences.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
After looking at the new Sway-A-Way rear springs we found that they were not seating all the way in the cups on the frame. Diameter too large or out of round, they don't bottom out in the cups. Now I know why MountainView said they were too big. They bind and pop. Victor knocked them up into the cups with a punch. I'm going back on Monday to see if they are still seated. I may be changing to these, Eibach 1" lift, which is all I want:

Lifting the front end was easy. The rear end rides well but the popping sounds are not right. I'm willing to bet that alot of the aftermarket parts don't fit right. The Sway-A-Way springs were not cheap either. I think I'm re-learning a lesson: Leave it stock or be ready to accept the consequences.
Interesting, I installed the SAW springs a couple months ago with zero issues, they’re silent.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Yes, it does seem to happen on extension. Shocks are Bilstein 5100’s and rated for my 2” lift. However, I haven’t ruled them out. I may try switching my shocks - left to right, just see what happens. The spring is still a possibility.

I want to emphasize - I am not talking about a little thud. It is a very loud bang, to the point you can almost feel it from the drivers seat. It sounds like someone is hitting the undercarriage with a sledge hammer or like a very heavy object was dropped onto the right rear, interior bed of the FJ, transmitting the impact directly into the body of the vehicle, as opposed to a sound one might hear coming from outside - if that makes sense. This is why it doesn’t seem to me to be a mere control arm bushing. I have searched underneath the vehicle to see if there was anywhere that showed evidence of a suspension part contacting with the frame, but found nothing.
This may sound ridiculous, maybe it is, but when I first picked up my FJ I had the same issue. Turned out to be the guide where the rear door latches was worn down and the door is actually slamming up and down. I was searching the rear suspension as well and it was LOUD.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Interesting, I installed the SAW springs a couple months ago with zero issues, they’re silent.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
These definitely don't fit right and Toytec wants to look at them. The shop is probably going to yank them and put Eibachs in. Toytec also offered me other springs because they know they don't fit right. The shop has been on the phone with them a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
This may sound ridiculous, maybe it is, but when I first picked up my FJ I had the same issue. Turned out to be the guide where the rear door latches was worn down and the door is actually slamming up and down. I was searching the rear suspension as well and it was LOUD.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
The only issue with this theory is, it never happened until I installed the new Springs. Having said that, I will investigate the door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
After looking at the new Sway-A-Way rear springs we found that they were not seating all the way in the cups on the frame. Diameter too large or out of round, they don't bottom out in the cups. Now I know why MountainView said they were too big. They bind and pop. Victor knocked them up into the cups with a punch. I'm going back on Monday to see if they are still seated. I may be changing to these, Eibach 1" lift, which is all I want:

Lifting the front end was easy. The rear end rides well but the popping sounds are not right. I'm willing to bet that alot of the aftermarket parts don't fit right. The Sway-A-Way springs were not cheap either. I think I'm re-learning a lesson: Leave it stock or be ready to accept the consequences.
Hmmm. The plot thickens 🤔 I don’t have the Sway-a-Way springs, however. Mine are Toytec.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Hmmm. The plot thickens 🤔 I don’t have the Sway-a-Way springs, however. Mine are Toytec.
I'm working with another shop that says they can custom cut and grind my springs to fit the way I want. They would make my passenger side spring shorter to reduce drivers side lean. I have reservations about them cutting and grinding coils. A bit scary :eek:
They say it's a standard practice:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
I'm working with another shop that says they can custom cut and grind my springs to fit the way I want. They would make my passenger side spring shorter to reduce drivers side lean. I have reservations about them cutting and grinding coils. A bit scary :eek:
They say it's a standard practice:
Yikes! We’re starting to talk real time and money, here. FYI, Toytec sells a 10mm leveling spacer for the rear springs - $17. Seems like a simpler and cheaper solution then cutting springs.

I am really hoping I can identify my issue, without having to tear the whole rear suspension apart and putting it back together, only to find I haven’t solved the problem. I guess I was hoping for a definitive answer to this problem, but it’s beginning to look like it could be any number of things. Something to do with the spring and the way it’s seated, or not, seems to be the front runner. I need a warm day to work on it. It’s been mid-30’s during the day and I can’t get the FJ in my garage 🥶

Again, I appreciate all the feedback and ideas from everybody.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
I'm working with another shop that says they can custom cut and grind my springs to fit the way I want. They would make my passenger side spring shorter to reduce drivers side lean. I have reservations about them cutting and grinding coils. A bit scary :eek:
They say it's a standard practice:
Just no...

Either the springs were installed incorrectly or they shouldn’t have passed QC and should be replaced by whoever sold them.
Plus, it takes half hour tops to install each side, so this is an easily resolvable situation.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
YES and NO,

If you change front or rear or both you have to re-align the truck or live with the results.

If your doing a lift maybe you are assuming that all of the new and guaranteed parts your using are 100% correct. Given that you have time and know what to look for you might be surprised to find that some of the parts don't fit. Or that instructions indicating that springs are not the same size are missing. So you might put the whole thing together and find out that a whole bunch of things are not what you thought they were and you are not a professional mechanic. So you call the guys who sold you the parts and they don't know how to put it together either.

The new shop I'm working with fixed it. Certain things should only be done by guys who have the knowledge and the tools.

This is applies only to my build and my situation:
1. The rear AFE springs were not the same height. My left was lower than my right by 1/4". This caused the truck to lean even more than it normally would. To compound problems the first shop did not seat my springs correctly. They tried to use spacers to compensate. DO NOT USE SPACERS!
2. The lean got even worse when the first shop installed the spacers on the left rear side. The spacers kept raising the back end but did very little to adjust the lean. The AFE springs do not compress much under static load. I put 700 pounds in the back this weekend and the back end barely moved.
3. The new shop I went to started by measuring, taking parts off, measuring them, and then they dumped the spacers. We swapped the rear springs. That eliminated the lean and without spacers brought the rear end down to level.
4. Next we did the same thing with the front end and dropped the Bilstein 5100s to the second notch. This allowed the Eibach springs to extend to normal compression.
5. With no lean and the truck level we started the alignment. We got the Caster near 2.0 and everything else dropped in to spec.

The truck drives amazing. No more pops, or lean, or too much lift. It glides over speed bumps and pot holes. FYI I spent 8 hours with these guys but it was worth every penny. Nothing had to be modified or cut (after pictures attached).

1119297


1119302


1119300


1119301
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Glad to see you had it figured out and it was just a simple installer error, like I suggested ;-)

Btw, I am considering doing the same to my fronts and drop it to the 2nd, though I really do appreciate being able to see stoplights...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Thanks! Me too. This whole exercise was extremely frustrating and it didn't need to be. I will try to take pictures of how the springs are setup now. I reset the front shocks to the second ring because I have 1.6" lift Eibach springs. The total amount of lift I got with the 5100s is 2.75". The third ring is too much pre-load for my springs. It's fine for stock springs. The Eibach springs improved my handling, control, and ride where the stock springs were really struggling. The 5100s with stock springs improved the ride but they didn't eliminate body roll or braking dive.

Tom's Automotive saved me. He had a big off road shop in San Gabriel but business dried up when LA off road trails started to close. Toytec wants Tom's contact info. Tom knows how to set up Jeeps and FJs because he owns them. He also knows the shops in OC that can do everything that he cannot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
This is how the springs should look when properly mounted. They should not bulge or bow. The pigtail on the rear spring is wound into the perch on the axle and the flat on top fits into the groove in the upper cup holding the rubber coil bumper. The front spring is a coil over that surrounds the shock. Notice how the bottom coil fits into the shocks spring retainer. I didn't take before pictures but my springs were not seated like this. They were random.

1119351


1119352
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Top