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What mileage/kilometers did your front wheel bearings fail?

  • Less than (20,000miles/32,000km)

    Votes: 2 3.2%
  • (30,000miles/48280km) to (40,000miles/64,374km)

    Votes: 1 1.6%
  • (40,000miles/64,374km) to (50,000miles/80,467km)

    Votes: 3 4.8%
  • (50,000miles/80,467km) to (60,000miles/96,561km)

    Votes: 3 4.8%
  • (60,000miles/96,561km) to (70,000miles/112,650km)

    Votes: 2 3.2%
  • (70,000miles/112,650km) to (80,000miles/128750km)

    Votes: 3 4.8%
  • (80,000miles/128,750km) to (90,000miles/144,840km)

    Votes: 4 6.5%
  • (90,000miles/144,840km) to (100,000miles/160,930km)

    Votes: 9 14.5%
  • (100,000miles/160,930km) to (120,000miles/193,120km)

    Votes: 13 21.0%
  • Greater than (120,000miles/193,120km)

    Votes: 22 35.5%

  • Total voters
    62
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Front bearing replacement DIY 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser



46K miles wheel bearings are bad. Quoted ~1200 dollars to replace both fronts bearing assemblies.

I am posting this since we would like to prevent others from mistakes/omissions in other posts. We are not mechanics so this write up will be geared for the very shade tree DIY’er. This is not a dig at other write ups as they were probably more proficient in mechanical knowledge. There are many ways to accomplish this task here is our path and suggestions. We were successful and hope this helps you to be also.

Parts and tool list are what we used, there are other options (i.e. manufacture of bearings, capability of press etc… I do not plan to list all alternatives. Again if you have a better way, excellent, please share it and make a write up. Anything to make this easier. 

Finally the procedure will be front loaded, no need to dig through the post for the final revisions. This was the downfall for most of these threads on the internet (for us). They all stop at the point where we ran into serious issues, and we assume they had greater knowledge they did not share or they we frustrated like we were and abandoned the write up. We provide video links to the press out and press in. No FJ cruiser video was found in our search for pressing and removing front bearings. You will get to see and hear the press in action.

Hyperlink Acknowledgements-


Last Great Road Trip: Great video on half shaft replacement.


Skinum : Write up on wheel bearings link

SemperFNJ For and additional look into front suspension removal see my write up for front differential seal replacement. CONTAINS EXPLODED VIEW DIAGRAMS


Bonomonster cheaper alternative to the dealer if someone can't assemble their own hubs. Check out here Wheel Bearings/Hubs 4x4 for sale *complete* BEST PRICE EVER save $$ - Tacoma World Forums[/QUOTE]






Parts list
Lithium Grease
Moog Steering & Suspension bearing assembly p/n 515040 [Front Axle Bearing Assembly]
National Oil Seal P/N710477 [Steering Knuckle Oil Seal]
O-Ring seal (Toyota P/N 90301-92003)

Tool list
Screw Driver (flat head)
Pliers
Hammer
20 ton Shop Press (Harbor Freight Central Hydraulics - item#32879)
Jack stands
Chocks
Sockets (mm) 11, 17, 19,24, 35
Wrench (mm) 17
Bungee cord
Mallet
Vice
10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set (Harbor Freight Tools U.S. General - item#95853)
Pry bars
Dremmel with grinding wheel for metal or similar grinder,


Procedure (Simple outline Print this out!)

Perform at your own risk.
1. Get FJ into 4H before parking.
2. Use chocks to secure vehicle
3. Lift vehicle easiest to do one wheel at a time, set up jack stands and chocks.
4. Remove wheels using 19mm socket
5. Remove dust cover (flat head screwdriver + hammer)
6. Remove cotter pin (pliers) and castle nut (hand).
7. Remove Hub Nut (35mm Socket note 4x4 should be engaged stopping hub rotation)
8. Unsecure brake line holder (11 mm socket) (We did not need to remove the ABS sensor plug, in case you feel worried about damaging it go ahead unplug it)
9. Have bungee cords ready (for brake caliper)
10. Remove brake caliper (17mm) secure to upper control arm with bungee cord.
11. Pull off disc rotor
12. Unscrew the 4 retained bolts on bearing assembly 17mm wrench. These bolts are retained use the open end of the wrench.
13. Pull off bearing assembly (may need pry bar) Note retain rubber O-Ring seal 90301-92003.
14. Pull off brake dust cover note position (take photo).
15. Take picture of bearing assembly and hub. So you can verify orientation prior to reassembly.


This is where all write ups seem to end and differ to machine shop. We were quoted 100 dollars to press 2 bearing assemblies onto the hub. If you like to DIY here is the process of pressing bearings. Buying the tools was right for us and still came out far ahead of the quote.

If you stop here you and do not pop out the ½ axle you will only replace the outer seal, FYI both likely have failed.


16. Remove the (2) bolts on lower control arm (24mm socket). This is needed because you have to replace the seal on the side of the half shaft. This requires popping out the half axel from the knuckle assembly (EASY TO DO Plastic mallet). Grease the seal and set axel back in place. Re-secure the lower control arm (24mm). When you re-tighten the 35mm hub nut this axle will pull the seal in tight.

17. Set up press. Purchased “drop metal” from local supply (ARLO Metals St. Pete FL) to create arbor system to push out hub from bearing.
18. Use 50mm bearing pusher set to touch the inner bearing track only (see photo)
19. Press out the hub spindle from the bearing assembly (see video)
20. This is unlikely to come out in one piece; the FJ has large races and bearings that typical bearing extractor kits cannot help. This is why we purchased “drop (scrap) metal”.
21. When the press pops out the hub you will see the inner bearing is loose, but the outer bearing, outer seal, and race are still attached.
22. Using pry bars my wife and I easily removed to remaining bearing and seal.
23. Remove the race from the hub by grinding into the race slowly until it pops/snaps. The popping is the race relieving the pressure and now you can slide the race up off the hub.
24. Retain the 4 bolts from the previous assembly.
25. NOW LETS PRESS ON THE BEARING ASSEMBLY ONTO THE HUB
26. Check orientation of bearing assembly (ensure correct orientation check the photo) Replace retained O-Ring seal.
27. Place greased outer seal on bearing assembly (loose by hand). We found that using a pry bar after pressing will work best. The mallet approach can get you in trouble by bending the seal.
28. Set up Hub, seal, and bearing assembly, retaining bolts (taped) in the press. We used arbor supports that prevented the studs of the hub from being compressed. (see photo/video)
29 Use a 72mm bearing pusher in the press. Press in bearing until stops (video)
30 Secure hub in vice and pry up the inner seal against the bearing assembly.
31. Clean up all areas prior to reassembly
31. Reverse steps to assemble truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
17. Set up press. Purchased “drop metal” from local supply (ARLO Metals St. Pete FL) to create arbor system to push out hub from bearing.


OLD Front Bearing Assembly with hub


20 TON Press set to push hub out of bearing assembly


18. Use 50mm bearing pusher set to touch the inner bearing track only (see photo)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
20. This is unlikely to come out in one piece; the FJ has large races and bearings that typical bearing extractor kits cannot help. This is why we purchased “drop (scrap) metal”.
21. When the press pops out the hub you will see the inner bearing is loose, but the outer bearing, outer seal, and race are still attached.





Inner bearing


Bearing assembly housing

Hub with seal, bearing, and race attached
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
23. Remove the race from the hub by grinding into the race slowly until it pops/snaps. The popping is the race relieving the pressure and now you can slide the race up off the hub.
24. Retain the 4 bolts from the previous assembly.






I ground away with care, the race will make a ping sound when it snaps from pressure, you can then remove the race. If you are having trouble some chisel the cut area to make it snap.






Race is off to the races ****groan***
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
25. NOW LETS PRESS ON THE BEARING ASSEMBLY ONTO THE HUB
26. Check orientation of bearing assembly (ensure correct orientation check the photo) Replace retained O-Ring seal.


27. Place greased outer seal on bearing assembly (loose by hand). We found that using a pry bar after pressing will work best. The mallet approach can get you in trouble by bending the seal.


28. Set up Hub, seal, and bearing assembly, retaining bolts (taped) in the press. We used arbor supports that prevented the studs of the hub from being compressed. (see photo/video)


29 Use a 72mm bearing pusher in the press. Press in bearing until stops (video)



30 Secure hub in vice and pry up the inner seal against the bearing assembly.
31. Clean up all areas prior to reassembly
31. Reverse steps to assemble truck.

No pics or video (30-31)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for making such a great in depth write up. There's actually much more to pressing these in and out than I thought. I'm not sure what the cost is of doing it yourself, but there is also a much cheaper alternative to the dealer if someone can't assemble their own hubs. Check out here

Wheel Bearings/Hubs 4x4 for sale *complete* BEST PRICE EVER save $$ - Tacoma World Forums
Wow this is excellent, thanks for the link, I will move it to the front in acknowledgements.
 

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I'm sorry, but I had to laugh while you operated the press to remove the hub. You were standing to the side and looked scared as hell! haha.

The one thing I would suggest people take note of is the original hub itself where the seal rests against it. Yours was looking pretty rough after you took everything apart. A scored hub can cut a new seal pretty quick. Hopefully you haven't had that problem. If you want to just get the whole thing in once piece you can order right here and save a butt load of time and money.

Toyota Tacoma, 4-Runner, FJ Cruiser and GX460 Custom Wheel Bearing Assemblies
 

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I had to replace in one in the 2007 FJ ....looks like the same bearing I have replaced both sides (TWICE) in my 2005 Taco 4x4....I have always bought Toyota parts for my trucks since 1979.....I went to Summit Racing and bought the bearing ( made by MOOG) 1/4 the price as OEM for my FJ as the OEM are not up to par. First time not using a OEM part on my Toyota's ....we shall see.

NOTE~~did not buy no OEM part because of price!!! Just wanted to find better bearing assembly.
 

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Been hearing that low winding noise now at 130K in my '07, going to change out both front wheel hub and bearings with compete assemblies, contemplating wether to go with koyo bearings or cheap asian ones.....any recommendations????? I hope it goes easy since they are complete assemblies
 

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Been hearing that low winding noise now at 130K in my '07, going to change out both front wheel hub and bearings with compete assemblies, contemplating wether to go with koyo bearings or cheap asian ones.....any recommendations????? I hope it goes easy since they are complete assemblies
I know which ones I would choose...

Mid States Off Road

pre-pressed-wheel-bearing-hub-assemblies-now-available

:wink

I just put a set on my truck, today. I've just about got it down to a science.
 

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Thanks for the Post, I was surprised how easy this was to do. I used the Midstate offroad replacement parts as well.It really isn't much harder than doing a set of rotors and brake pads. (except the hammer and pry bar part.) I cant believe the local dealership wanted $1200.00+ to do each side!
 

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Nice write-up Semper !

During my Lift, Diff upgrade last weekend I went with the complete Blue Pit Bearings new HUB assembly - great quality and complete.
But yea - EXPENSIVE (at $280 per side)
Still - an easy swap and all new components, seals, rings, bearings, studs....

I dig your nitty-gritty detail and approach, sometimes thats just what you need

So for those who need the easy and expensive route -- but will nice end-result -- the Blue Pit assembly is another way to go too.

Dog
 

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Or you can buy a harbor freight 20 Ton press for $150 and a set of Koyo wheel bearings for $60 each (OEM supplier), a few seals for $5 each and do it for less and have a press for future projects at the end of the day.

I use my press more than I thought. Think about replacing the bearings on belt pulleys for $5 per bearing instead of $50 per pulley. So many times it would have cost me way more if I have to buy the complete assembly. My 20 ton press has paid for itself over and over again.
 

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**knock on wood**

Still on OEM's
~150,000K mi
Same for brakes and clutch
 
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