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Discussion Starter #1
So I work at a toyota dealership here in Cali and had been waiting for a good Fj to come in on trade and just had not seen any come in at all. Finally saw a 2014 with 30k in magma and good condition come in. It's an auto 4wd, back up camera and blue tooth, but no other bells and whistles. But now there's an 07 attitude black manual 4wd with all the bells and whistles and only 60k for 2/3 the cost. I would really love your ally opinion.

Any pros/cons of one vs the other? Only about 25k difference in mileage.
 

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Go 2014. Updated motor, rear axle, back up cam, bluetooth, fenders, ability to turn daylight running lights off on switch.

Auto's get better mpg too!
 

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Backup camera and Bluetooth are not a big deal as I will put a navi head unit it.

What's the deal with the motor and rear end. I do plan on creating a "crawler" out of which ever I go with.
 

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2007 is single vvti. 2014 is dual. Some 2007 had brittle rear gears. They redesigned the fenders after the 2007-2009s had fender bulges (in some cases they rip). I have a 2007 with all the bells and whistles. My dad has a 2013 TT, with all the bells and whistles. I don't see enough difference to want to spend a mess more, getting the newer one. There's a couple of nice features on his, but nothing mine doesn't have...that is aftermarket...and better. I will give that his has a little more power, though. Gas mileage is only slightly different.
 

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The newer one will offer as additional enhancements, a tighter turning circle, larger more robust ring gears, map lights, side visors, auto-dimming mirror, more HP, and better fuel economy among the other things listed below.
 

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I think you post both of the window stickers of both vehicles and then we can make a more informed opinion. But off the top of my head:8 year old vehicle vs 1. I think that says a lot. The VVTI engine in the 14 is far superior to the 2007 engine. Fender bulges is also a big issue that others have mentioned. I would look that up so you can see what they mean.
 

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The newer one will offer as additional enhancements, a tighter turning circle, larger more robust ring gears, map lights, side visors, auto-dimming mirror, more HP, and better fuel economy among the other things listed below.

I didn't know the turning circle changed... When was that?


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You say the 14 is an AT with no bells....does it have the locker? If not, pass.
 

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If this were a typical vehicle it would be simple but technical advances aside, depreciation becomes a factor.

With a slow depreciating FJ, I'd say go with the '14 if you swing the bucks. ( an '07 should be less than 1/2 the bucks of a '14 in a typical vehicle)

We bought our '13 new mainly because the used FJs were too pricey ( we had no modding plans, however)
 

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You'll get a better return on investment from the 14. Plus there were issues with early 2007s. Since the 2007 is well out of warranty, if you experience any of those issues, you'll be paying out of pocket. Not worth the risk in my opinion.

However, if the 2014 doesn't have a rear locker, then it's not worth buying.
 

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What's the deal with the motor and rear end. I do plan on creating a "crawler" out of which ever I go with.
If you're building a crawler, you want the 2014. The early FJ's had weak rear differentials and fender bulging issues that were fixed later on. They upgraded the engine in 2010, and you will find rock crawling to be much easier with an automatic transmission.

FYI, you don't have to go as new as 2014 for any of this, if price is an issue. Any 2010+ will do.
 

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However, if the 2014 doesn't have a rear locker, then it's not worth buying.
^^^ good point. Let me amend my previous comment, "any 2010+ will do" to add "with a locker".
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here they are

2014 Magma AT 4x4
$32k
35,000 miles
BT
Backup Camera

2007 attitude black MT 4x4
$21k
62,000 miles
A-trac
Locker
Subwoofer

Can put a pioneer head unit in it that will give what the 2014 has....

I didn't worry about the locker because I know I can put a Detroit or ARB in it (or at least think I can right?), I grew up wheeling a manual jeep. Never wheeled an automatic. Also the 325$ a month payment vs 450$ a month.
 

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Yes you can use an air locker, but the OEM one works really well for what it is. Plus without locker you get no ATRAC and that is also amazing to have offroad.

And the 07 is Black Diamond. ;)

I wouldnt get THAT 14. If you dont care a bit about ripping into diffs, get the 07. You can always upgrade the gears. You may want to change the ratio anyway. They are not all made of glass...they just over-hardened some of the early 2006 build-date 07s thus making them more brittle.

use that extra monthly cash for upgrades!


BUT, since they dont make them anymore it would be best to find the newest one you can afford, but with the locker. It really is pretty damned important for offroading these things.
 

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I was in the same spot recently. Ended up with a 07, 52k miles for $24k. The PO appears to have always garaged it, never took it offroad, maintenance regularly at the dealer etc. The 12/13/14 years were all well into the low/mid $30k range locally; I would rather spend the difference in price on mods, and honestly, a difference of 10 or 20 k in miles on one of these rigs is negligible in a Toyota.

I looked really hard at the 8.0 vs 8.2 rear diff issue specifically. I planned all along to re-gear, so the issue became whether the 8.0 housing with substantially inferior. Two FJ specialty shops told me that they have not seen an FJ come back with broken gears where they have been replaced with good quality 4.56's running 33"s. That was the deciding factor for me. My concern was that I might be buying the equivalent of a Jeep Wrangler with a Dana 35 rear end... but that is NOT the case ... the 8.0 is pretty decent.

If I were building a hard core rock rig, I would be putting in Dana 60's anyway (with an SAS front) so all the talk about 8.0 vs 8.2 would be equally irrelevant.

HTH
 

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Ask the guys with a '07-'09 with the frame issues if they would rather have a '14. I would say the '14 since they upgraded the FRAME/motor/rear end '10+
Frame- The OP appears to be in Roseville CA. As far as I can tell the frame issue pops up with guys dealing with road salt. The OP might be dealing with an occasional trip to Tahoe etc, but that's about it.

Motor- I drove several 07- 09's and 10-11's before I bought my 07. Honestly, I could not tell a difference in torque, despite the hp difference. Maybe its there, but it is subtle.

Rear end- see my post above.

All that said, I would have loved to have bought a 2010+, but the price difference was just not justified at least for my purposes, and I would rather spend it on mods.

HTH
 

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If this were a typical vehicle it would be simple but technical advances aside, depreciation becomes a factor.

With a slow depreciating FJ, I'd say go with the '14 if you swing the bucks. ( an '07 should be less than 1/2 the bucks of a '14 in a typical vehicle)

We bought our '13 new mainly because the used FJs were too pricey ( we had no modding plans, however)
In actual dollars or by percent? In either case, the 07 may yield a better deal as far as depreciation is concerned. The OP is indicating that he can get a 07 for $11k less than the 14. Hard to say for sure but I would imagine that most of the "heavy" depreciation is already rung out of an 8 YO vehicle. 11k is ALOT of delta in this case.
 
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