2010 Brick build

2429 Views 33 Replies 4 Participants Last post by brickedfj, 5 d ago

brickedfj

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago (Edited)

Hello! Decided to make a build thread to keep track of stuff

Suspension:
-OME struts w/885’s
-OME shocks w/895e’s
-Dobinsons UCA’s
-Metalcloak rear lower control arms
-War fab tie rod sleeves
-Drt fab spindle gussets (need to install)

Armor:
-Coastal off road winch bumper with smittybilt x20 10k winch.
-1 3/4 OD DOM .120 homemade sliders
-RCI full skids
-Marlin Crawler LCA HD Brace/ cam gussets

Wheels/ Tires:
-Method 16x8 0mm offset 4.5bs
-315/75R16 Yokohama Geolandar MT g003

Future mods:
-4.88’s
-ARB front locker
-Tundra rack?

Here it is so far

Front lift install

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5

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brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #2 · 3 mo ago

Rear is in! So front is a little higher. Hoping with settling/ bumper/ winch/ skids/ sliders it’ll be more level.
Worst case I get heavier weight springs.

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darksidetourist57

· #3 · 3 mo ago

I used 885 and 895 springs, got very close to 3" in front and it all came out pretty level. With the addition of a Coastal Offroad bumper (in aluminum), Warn M8000 winch (synthetic line), 20" led bar and a pair of 4" pods I haven't noticed the front end sagging at all, but I also haven't bothered to take a tape measure and check.

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brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #4 · 3 mo ago

darksidetourist57 said:
I used 885 and 895 springs, got very close to 3" in front and it all came out pretty level. With the addition of a Coastal Offroad bumper (in aluminum), Warn M8000 winch (synthetic line), 20" led bar and a pair of 4" pods I haven't noticed the front end sagging at all, but I also haven't bothered to take a tape measure and check.

Same bumper I went with but I went steel. So an additional 30-40lbs.

How are your cv angles? Did you do new upper control arms?

darksidetourist57

· #5 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

brickedfj said:
Same bumper I went with but I went steel. So an additional 30-40lbs.

How are your cv angles? Did you do new upper control arms?

While up there, the cv angles have so far survived fine. I've had 1 torn boot which we replaced. And yes, SPC uca's went in when we did the lift. A piece of advice- grease the ball joints often.

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brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #6 · 3 mo ago

darksidetourist57 said:
While up there, the cv angles angles have so far survived fine. I've had 1 torn boot which we replaced. And yes, SPC uca's went in when we did the lift. A piece of advice- grease the ball joints often.

I didn’t order uca’s yet as I wasn’t sure if I would really need them. Going to see how alignment goes and go from there.

Yeah guess I’ll have to watch my boots. Inner is my concern, outer looks fine. I have two new Toyota cv’s ready to go. Send off the others to cvj for high angle boots when they tear.

Sanderhawk

· #7 · 3 mo ago

You look like you need a front end alignment your front tires look like they are not level

darksidetourist57

· #8 · 3 mo ago

brickedfj said:
I didn’t order uca’s yet as I wasn’t sure if I would really need them. Going to see how alignment goes and go from there.

Yeah guess I’ll have to watch my boots. Inner is my concern, outer looks fine. I have two new Toyota cv’s ready to go. Send off the others to cvj for high angle boots when they tear.

With close to 3" of lift you will need them. People typically find that more than 2" and stock alignment settings (especially caster, which gives a vehicle higher speed stability) can be difficult to reach. You can use the lower control arm adjustment cams to move the wheel/tire forward a little to clear the body mount with taller tires, but now (without aftermarket uca's that have more caster to start with) coming close to stock alignment #'s becomes very difficult, and you really do need at least 2 1/2 degrees of positive caster if you want your FJ to be easy to drive on the highway. I've driven a car with not enough caster and at highway speeds you're constantly over-correcting. By the time you reach your destination on any long trip (more than an hour or 2) you're already half- worn out. It's also dangerous- there's a reason all cars and trucks are built with the front alignment specs they come with.

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brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #9 · 3 mo ago

Sanderhawk said:
You look like you need a front end alignment your front tires look like they are not level

Yeah had the steering wheel turned to the right a bit that's all. Does make it look like that though.

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brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #10 · 3 mo ago

darksidetourist57 said:
With close to 3" of lift you will need them. People typically find that more than 2" and stock alignment settings (especially caster, which gives a vehicle higher speed stability) can be difficult to reach. You can use the lower control arm adjustment cams to move the wheel/tire forward a little to clear the body mount with taller tires, but now (without aftermarket uca's that have more caster to start with) coming close to stock alignment #'s becomes very difficult, and you really do need at least 2 1/2 degrees of positive caster if you want your FJ to be easy to drive on the highway. I've driven a car with not enough caster and at highway speeds you're constantly over-correcting. By the time you reach your destination on any long trip (more than an hour or 2) you're already half- worn out. It's also dangerous- there's a reason all cars and trucks are built with the front alignment specs they come with.

Yeah I think I will order some. Lots of options out there. I actually cleared my 33's without a Body mount chop or lift so that's good.

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brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #11 · 3 mo ago

Alignment actually went pretty well. Not that far off caster specs. Probably get some new uca’s anyways

100% have the needle bearing vibe. New ecgs bushing should be here Friday. Going to install that and a new wheel bearing on that side while it’s apart.

bubbadogg77

· #12 · 3 mo ago

Nicely mod'd FJ.

I'm in the same boat, only I'm lifting up to 2", not sure if I'll upgrade the UCAs. Good to hear your alignment went well with 3" of lift.

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brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #13 · 3 mo ago

Prepped/ took apart everything for the ecgs bushing replacement. From what I can tell all the needle bearings are intact. So that’s good.

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darksidetourist57

· #14 · 3 mo ago

brickedfj said:
Alignment actually went pretty well. Not that far off caster specs. Probably get some new uca’s anyways

100% have the needle bearing vibe. New ecgs bushing should be here Friday. Going to install that and a new wheel bearing on that side while it’s apart.

Where did the alignment specs end up?

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brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #15 · 3 mo ago

darksidetourist57 said:
Where did the alignment specs end up?

Everything green but caster out. 1.7 or so vs the paper saying 2.3 is green. Drives fine but going to get some uca’s anyway.

brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #16 · 3 mo ago

Needle bearing was intact. Little lip damage which I imagine happened during removal.

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darksidetourist57

· #17 · 3 mo ago

brickedfj said:
Everything green but caster out. 1.7 or so vs the paper saying 2.3 is green. Drives fine but going to get some uca’s anyway.

1.7 degrees caster is quite low, and you'll probably find it a little more tiresome to drive on long highway trips if you have a heavy foot...

brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #18 · 3 mo ago

darksidetourist57 said:
1.7 degrees caster is quite low, and you'll probably find it a little more tiresome to drive on long highway trips if you have a heavy foot...

Yeah not ideal. No big trips soon. Plan is to finish everything by mid spring- early summer.

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brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #19 · 3 mo ago

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brickedfj

Discussion Starter · #20 · 3 mo ago

Done for the day. Need to do the outside welds and finish inside. Grind welds and paint. Then winch install.

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