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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all!

Decided to trade-in my FJ and trying to figure out if I am expecting too much out of my resale or if I'm spot on.

The dealer offered me $24,500, but I'd really like to see 27-28 (even though I've see way higher resale). I understand it's a dealer so they will low ball a little. Does this seem like a good deal?

Here is a little about my FJ:
2012 Red Trails Teams
68,000 miles
3in lift
Front Toytec Coilovers
Camburg UCAs
Rear Icon Stage 5 Long Travel w/ Remote Reservoirs
Metal Tech Rear Links
Cooper MTPs 305/70/16 (33s)
TRD Rims 16in
Custom Front Steel Tube Bumper
Airaid Cold Air Intake
LED Headlights
Mini Custom Distro Box (like the SPOD)
52in Curved Lightbar
Pioneer Touchscreen Headunit
CAB Radio
Front Skid Plate
Typical Trail Teams Interior (roofrack, backup camera, etc)

I think I can get them up to 26-27, maybe. I'm sure a private sale would be higher, but I can't do the waiting game for a seller and pay the higher cost monthly payment on new truck. Thanks for any help!!
 

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Also, you get a tax benefit from trade in. I see you’re in Hawaii so 4% on the amount of your car? If you can get them up to 27k then Add 4%... that’s another $1080 so you’re up to your 28k.

Good luck. Remember. The important number is the difference in the cost of the new truck and the trade.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Whatever dealer trade offer looks like "on paper" dealer is giving you "actual cash value" which is lower than "wholesale", as they arebit actually discounting "new" vehicle that much, if at all? Be sure you know what manufacturer incentives, including 0% financing that need to be figured into equation, I always sell my own vehicle and never trade; but I do have another vehicle to drive, which you may not?
Others are right when they tell you the "difference" paid between trade in and purchase price of new is the number to consider and determines how much sales tax is owed which can be considerable, depending upon state/county rates. Another thing to consider is
"dealer doc fees", which is just additional profit for dealer principal/owner and can be as high as $500, or more: but a clerk making maybe $15 an hour is real cost and an experienced one should take less than an hour to process. The presence of and amount of this fe varies a lot among dealers and some charge none, should always be considered "negotiable"!

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome thanks for all the great info everyone!
 

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I have been doing this for a living for a very long time. my advice to you is:

before you go to the dealership do these 2 things. if you have a CarMax in your area take your trade to them and get an appraisal. also find and join a credit union and secure financing through them. when you go to the dealership you want the most experienced salesman you can find, NOT the new guy. he has very little power with the sales mangers, this is bad for you.

start buy keeping the trade out of the equation. only negotiate the sale price of the vehicle, do not talk about payment yet. once you have a firm price Including any extras (bed liner, step rails, extended warranties etc.) taxes, tags, processing fee. don't accept "they will go over that in the business/finance office" line. you want to negotiate all aspects of the deal on the sales floor. This is called "step buying" and will allow you to maintain control through the process.

once you have the price of the truck then talk about your trade. do not disclose the CarMax appraisal yet, let them give you a number. if it is the same or higher than what you have roll with it. if not pull out the "other dealer" appraisal and ask them to match it. unless it is unusually high they will do this.

now move to financing, again let them quote you a rate. if it the same or lower roll with it. if not show them what you have from your credit union. they may not be able to match it, banks set rates NOT dealers. look at the difference in the rate, if it is just 10-15 basis points then it might be worth using their financing to avoid the hassle of going to the credit union and bringing back a check.

before you walk into the business/ finance office you need to know:

1) what are you paying for the truck
2) how much are you getting for you trade
3) what is your interest rate.
4) how much are you expected to put down if anything
5) term of your loan.

after that it is just math and you have maintained control. if it changes in the office don't hesitate get up and walk out and find your salesman. tell him what happened and that you expect your agreement to be honored.

the hardest part of this is to maintain a smile and good humor through the whole process. if you act like a dick they will treat you like a dick. you catch more flies with honey than with vinegar. hope this helps
 

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As a trade in, wether it is stock or modded the trade in price is gonna be the same. In some cases like CarMax they will offer way less if it’s modded.

If possible I’d put all your factory parts back on and part out your mods on the forums.

I did this on my 2010 GTI a few years ago. CarMax wanted $10k cause it was modded. Autotrader has a similar thing where you rate the car yourself and they offered $16k. Then I took all my mods off and parted that out. At the end of the day I was at $21k after selling a few of the mods... the rest of the mods I couldn’t sell like the rims and the big turbo I installed in my wife’s VW CC.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have been doing this for a living for a very long time. my advice to you is:

before you go to the dealership do these 2 things. if you have a CarMax in your area take your trade to them and get an appraisal. also find and join a credit union and secure financing through them. when you go to the dealership you want the most experienced salesman you can find, NOT the new guy. he has very little power with the sales mangers, this is bad for you.

start buy keeping the trade out of the equation. only negotiate the sale price of the vehicle, do not talk about payment yet. once you have a firm price Including any extras (bed liner, step rails, extended warranties etc.) taxes, tags, processing fee. don't accept "they will go over that in the business/finance office" line. you want to negotiate all aspects of the deal on the sales floor. This is called "step buying" and will allow you to maintain control through the process.

once you have the price of the truck then talk about your trade. do not disclose the CarMax appraisal yet, let them give you a number. if it is the same or higher than what you have roll with it. if not pull out the "other dealer" appraisal and ask them to match it. unless it is unusually high they will do this.

now move to financing, again let them quote you a rate. if it the same or lower roll with it. if not show them what you have from your credit union. they may not be able to match it, banks set rates NOT dealers. look at the difference in the rate, if it is just 10-15 basis points then it might be worth using their financing to avoid the hassle of going to the credit union and bringing back a check.

before you walk into the business/ finance office you need to know:

1) what are you paying for the truck
2) how much are you getting for you trade
3) what is your interest rate.
4) how much are you expected to put down if anything
5) term of your loan.

after that it is just math and you have maintained control. if it changes in the office don't hesitate get up and walk out and find your salesman. tell him what happened and that you expect your agreement to be honored.

the hardest part of this is to maintain a smile and good humor through the whole process. if you act like a dick they will treat you like a dick. you catch more flies with honey than with vinegar. hope this helps
Tonka thank you! I have generally followed this tactic as my Dad did this as well. With this trade-in I followed the same tactic, but they offered just under what I wanted. Yea they reason I want 27-28 vs the 24,500 they offered is that is the exact offset of the price I want then adding in my down payment. What I will do is try to maintain control, but composure so it stays a calm and cool situation. So far they have treated me very nice, so I will just haggle a little more until I feel they won't budge. Appreciate they great insight!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As a trade in, wether it is stock or modded the trade in price is gonna be the same. In some cases like CarMax they will offer way less if it’s modded.

If possible I’d put all your factory parts back on and part out your mods on the forums.

I did this on my 2010 GTI a few years ago. CarMax wanted $10k cause it was modded. Autotrader has a similar thing where you rate the car yourself and they offered $16k. Then I took all my mods off and parted that out. At the end of the day I was at $21k after selling a few of the mods... the rest of the mods I couldn’t sell like the rims and the big turbo I installed in my wife’s VW CC.
Panda thanks! I still do have my factory suspension, sway bars, etc minus a couple parts like my front bumper. Depending on my timeline and work, I may have to try this to maximize the trade-in. Since I had to order the truck (Colorado ZR2) that I am getting, when it comes in I will go to Carmax and see what they will give me. The got the Chevy dealer offer in writing, so if anything I can always fall back there. Piecing it out will be very tedious, but like you said will net me more money in the long run. Thank you!
 

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Tonka thank you! I have generally followed this tactic as my Dad did this as well. With this trade-in I followed the same tactic, but they offered just under what I wanted. Yea they reason I want 27-28 vs the 24,500 they offered is that is the exact offset of the price I want then adding in my down payment. What I will do is try to maintain control, but composure so it stays a calm and cool situation. So far they have treated me very nice, so I will just haggle a little more until I feel they won't budge. Appreciate they great insight!
your welcome, hope it helps
 

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I used to be a carmax kinda guy for getting a quick offer to have in hand but they have gotten ridiculous for low balling. The last time I went in they offered $3K under wholesale for a 2015 tacoma. The sales guy said their location alone they see several thousand cars a year so why not low ball. They can afford to be picky. If the only ones you take in are the low balls it means more profit for you. And then they sell for full retail. Get you coming and going.

As for the wholesale value they offered, I can't speak to HI but in the continental US that's a good offer. I've got access to manheim dealer auction information and on the mainland average is $22K. A dealer typically doesn't value your add ons at purchase but of course will value them when they sell. Part of the game.

BTW, the market has been unusually soft for FJs lately. If you can hold off until spring it usually picks up.

Good luck.
 

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I tried CarMax, when getting rid of Lightning for FJ, they made what I thought was a ridiculous offer, given low mileage and condition of L
Several guys in car club mentioned they took their car back to selling dealer, who knew and serviced vehicle and was better price than CarMax or trade by thousands. So I went back to selling dealer and they offered me 4k more than CM on my, at the time, 11 yo L
As I have said, I always sell vehicle myself; but this was to be exception that proves the rule. I did, and stiil do. volunteer for local
German Shepherd Rescue and was initially pressured into fostering this beautiful; but un-neutered male, a year old. Had this terrific
dog that I trained myself (both military and police background) Very protective; but very social with those friendly to him and me and cracked up my customers as Gunter loved to talk on the phone. Anyway, he loved riding in L and went everywhere: but one day took him to vet as he had huge bloody stool and tests showed he had pancreatic cancer that had spread to spleen. Nothing could be done for him and reluctantly agreed to put him to sleep, so he wouldn't suffer. as you can imagine I was inconsolable and became very sad every time I drove the L, Wanted something completely different than L and saw 11 FJ TT at Toyo dealer across the street from Ford Shop wher I purchased L. This is why I deviated from usual policy of selling old car myself, then buying, Some of you may think I'm crazy fr doing this over a dog and OK if you do, don't really care.

Very long way around to telling you o try your or another Toyo dealer who may well give you better price on your 12 TT.
 

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I just bought one of these 3 months ago with almost the same mileage, but mine was completely stock. I did not pay much more than what they are offering you for a trade in so to me it sounds like a great deal on a trade in value. Of course location, condition, your mods, etc will all impact what they are giving you, but it sounds fair to me. Like others have said, just watch their tactics as they know how to work the numbers to make you think you are winning (what you want for your trade), but then they get you elsewhere to offset the extra they gave you for the trade. Best of luck!
 

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I think I can get them up to 26-27, maybe. I'm sure a private sale would be higher, but I can't do the waiting game for a seller and pay the higher cost monthly payment on new truck. Thanks for any help!!
There's a very comparable truck to yours (miles + mods) on AutoTrader for just under $28K. I don't know how the market adjusts for being on Hawaii versus the continental US, but let's assume that's your starting point. The dealer probably lists yours for $29,995 then deals it down to $28K.

At which point, it's a question of how much more you can get private-party versus from the dealer and utilize the sales tax benefit. For a trade-in price of $26K that's about ~$2000 (assuming 8% rate) in sales tax benefit off the new vehicle. So trading it in for $26K is worth as much to you as selling it private-party for $28K. If you were here in the US, your truck private-party for $28K would have me pointing buyers to better deals.

I'd swap as much of the original parts back on as you've got, trade it in and sell the mods. Once that's done, any trade above about $25K should be considered a good deal. Good luck!
 

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With Carmax, it all depends on how well your trade will sell on their lots, and how many they have. They do not use standard Manheim black book, NADA, KBB, etc., they use their own sales numbers. I have sold 2 cars to Carmax, each time they beat the dealer offers by over $2,000, only because those cars were in demand on their lots, and they sell quickly. Certain vehicle though do not sell well for them, hence the low ball offer. It is always a good decision just to have an appraisal done by Carmax anyway, as it takes maybe an hour, and it is a guaranteed value for 7 days.
 

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There is no Carmax in Hawaii, so he's not going to have that option unfortunately. I just moved from there. Like others have said, try and sell the mods to make up the difference. Unless you can get a good private party sale, you pretty much are stuck with Servco and Tony Group dealers...and they all pretty much suck! I wish I was still there or else I'd be willing to help you! Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
 
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