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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok... first off im a Jeep guy... and the reason why Im on here asking for help is that my girl friends 2014 FJ is giving her fits. It wont stay running and the hotter the external temp gets, the more it dies.

Being Captain "Save a hoe" I've told her that I got this... when in fact im out of my league when it comes to Yota Tech.

My first diagnosis was fuel pump... luckily there was a recall and the dealer was able to replace at no charge. I thought i had a win on this but no luck.
Second diagnosis wad the MAFS and while we were at it, changed out the oil.

This was fine for a bit but again no wins.
Problem is still persistent.

I've chatted with some other mechanic friends and one of them mentioned that her resignator may have a crack in it. Now, i only know of the resignator on what on my muffler system but he was telling me that this would be in line with the intake. Is this right?

The problem with my girlfriend FJ is that she is running AEM cold air intake and that resignator has been deleted.

Im a bit miffed guys and im running out ideas on what is causing this rig to die. Any help would be appreciated.


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Greetings! First thing you may want to do is plug a code scanner into it.
 
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How's the coolant level? Still plenty in the overflow?
Air filter is clean?
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Greetings! First thing you may want to do is plug a code scanner into it.
I have 2 obd 2 readers both using JScan and torque and ive been having issues with pulling info off if her FJ. Im playing catch up today but will look into my settings later.

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Is the check engine light on?
 

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2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser, 6 speed manual, completely stock
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Check the coolant temperature sensor (different from the thermostat).

I had a 1994 Toyota Camry that would hesitate and stall when warm. No one could figure out the problem including the dealer and my trusted mechanic at the local shop. We started throwing parts at it after the problem stumped all the professionals. We were close to selling the car over it but decided to check some internet forums for similar problems. After some reading we discovered...

The coolant temperature sensor was going bad causing the computer to think the engine was cold when it was actually warmed up. This bad sensor caused the computer to adjust the air/fuel mix which caused hesitation and stalling. $35 and 15 minutes of testing and wrenching in the driveway fixed the issue. Never had the problem again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Check the coolant temperature sensor (different from the thermostat).

I had a 1994 Toyota Camry that would hesitate and stall when warm. No one could figure out the problem including the dealer and my trusted mechanic at the local shop. We started throwing parts at it after the problem stumped all the professionals. We were close to selling the car over it but decided to check some internet forums for similar problems. After some reading we discovered...

The coolant temperature sensor was going bad causing the computer to think the engine was cold when it was actually warmed up. This bad sensor caused the computer to adjust the air/fuel mix which caused hesitation and stalling. $35 and 15 minutes of testing and wrenching in the driveway fixed the issue. Never had the problem again.
That actually something new I haven't heard of before. I will look into it.
Thanks

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Yup. Well aware of it. We had a new one put in and it didn't solve the issue

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Has the battery and alternator been checked and all ground points and battery connections are clean?

Edit has the cats been checked to make sure they are not plugged up?.

Edit 2... check the spark plug coils make sure they are not cracked and in spec.



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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Has the battery and alternator been checked and all ground points and battery connections are clean?

Edit has the cats been checked to make sure they are not plugged up?.

Edit 2... check the spark plug coils make sure they are not cracked and in spec.



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Alt and Battery were one of the first things i checked. The battery is 2yrs old and was low but held a charge at 90% after i cleaned the terminals. Alternator was working at 14.2v.

I haven't checked the O² sensors on the catalytic converter yet nor have I checked the coils. At this point I'm on a budget and I get what you are saying "keep it simple" right? But I also just dont want to throw a bunch of money on unnecessary repairs.

I've got a friend who is coming over later this week with his new reader. Apparently he made a deal with Satan aka the Snap-On dealer and claims that this should read anything. Will see...

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Take it to AutoZone or wherever, they will read the codes for free. Until you do that, it's all just guessing.
 

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@Buckskinner38 I've had an issue in the past after I removed the intake resonator thing and swapped it with a K&N plastic pipe.
If the hose clamps come loose on that plastic pipe, and it pulls air that hasn't been through the (stock) airbox, then it dramatically loses power and stalls. There is what I believe to be an air flow sensor on the engine side of the stock airbox. Make sure that sensor is inline, and plugged in. Also check that there is no air leakage/crack between that sensor and the throttle body (which contains the main MAF sensor).

In the name of eliminating possible issues, is it possible to roll back to stock for the airbox & resonator thing?

Sorry to hear about the jeep thing ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Exactly did you do to the "MAFS"?

And (maybe a jeep thing) you're a self-styled "Captain save-a-hoe"? I thought this was your GF's FJ?
It got replaced. The voltage never increased during a throttle up.
And yeah, just an expression of speech. Dont tell my girlfriend i called her a hoe.
Hold to the Bro Code. Vegas rules apply.

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