Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help me please. I have a 3" Toytec lift and decided I liked the look of the 35" Toyo MT's better than the 33's. I have chopped everything I could find to give me more room under the wheel wells but she still rubs with any suspension articulation on turns. I wouldn't mind going with a 6" lift (i'm thinking RC) but I was wondering if there are any other options I haven't tried tried yet. Would the Bushwacker pocket flares and Spider Trax wheel spacers be a better try first? Has anyone had any luck with this setup? Any input would be welcome. Thanx, FJit
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,479 Posts
What's the backspacing on the wheel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,165 Posts
You might have to do more fender well trimming and hammering as well as removing the factory fender flares. Also if your wheels doesn't have a small enough backspacing, you might have to get spcers.:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,128 Posts
You gotta make sure you cut the body mount correctly. I'm going to be doing it for third time to get it right.


Also, backspacing really matters, make sure it's correct!


Lastly, Look into extended front bumpstops. You need them. Other wise your tires will begin pushing your fenders towards the sky. :bigthumb:

:rocker:

I'm doing just fine with my not-quite-but-almost 35"s.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
I am looking at getting 35's with Thugs, what is your backspacing to run those 315's?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not sure of the back spacing. I will check with Schwab and get back to ya on that. I have no problem with clearance because of the sidewall. My main concern is with the body mounts. Yes I have chopped them, but it still rubs at full lock and with articulation. If I do go with spacers I am concerned that my rubbing will just be pushed out and I will start rubbing on the fender flares. This is where my question about the Bushwacker Pocket flares comes in. Do they just extend out or will they actually add space to wheel wells? Also, is it OK to hammer down the seam where the fender is welded together (back by the body mount)? Will hammering this have any negative structural impact? Thanx again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,479 Posts
Fjit, this problem with 35s comes up all the time. Take a moment and look over Toledo FJ's thread on his wheel/tire issues. You're facing the same issues and you'll find the solution in that thread. You need to get the right backspacing and an aggressive body mount chop. Adjusting the caster forward also helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Looking further into it, I am leaning more towards the 305/70/17's from Nitto. I currently have the Dura Grapplers (295's) but might go with the Dune's.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
im running 35's with the ar thug style wheels, spidertrax wheel spacers, and fabtech 6" lift, and STILL had rubbing untill i did the body chop...so, not sure what to tell you will work with a 3" lift
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,712 Posts
Yup. I was having issues due to the caster angle. I'm only running 285s on Spyderlock wheels with 3.5 in of backspacing. AthenaCelest is rolling on 35s with the OME lift. She pulled her fender flares. Might try PMing her or waiting for her to chime in here. The Light Racing UCAs allow for a good deal of adjustment and they are under $400 bucks. They may help add caster to move the wheel further foreword.

Dominic,
Can you describe or post pics/link to what you consider to be the right way to do the body chop?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,538 Posts
Ive had 35"s since you were born......




Your mom wears 35”s..


Use a 4.5 back space, 9" wide wheel...front body mount clear cut, some trimming to the plastic on inside of flares, minor dead-blow "shaping" to the rear inner fender, fold over the body seams on front and rear , get an after market bumper to clear fender wells...
..remove mud flaps…
Enjoy.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top