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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. First time posting here, but it's been an amazing resource for me so I wanted to give back. There have been several posts about this already and I want to thank especially WESAYSO and SONOF40 for the inspiration. I'm preparing to do more car camping with my FJ cruiser, so in anticipation of sleeping in the cab I needed a way to exit. Here's what I did:

There's already a small access port in the bottom left of the rear door inside panel, so I calipered it and quickly modeled it in Sketchup to form my parts around. I modeled an inset port that has snap fit sides to sink flush into the existing opening. I also modeled a "button" that will gently snap in to the rails on the "port" and keep it traveling vertically, but with a loose fit as to not bind.

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I was surprised this worked perfectly on the first try. But no complaints! I located the metal rod that moves vertically from the exterior handle and modeled a snap fit junction to intercept it with my own aluminum rod. The junction snap fits onto the existing rod and has a topside receiver for the aluminum rod I cut and bent to fit. This was a bit of a gut feeling shape. But in general I came up the length of the straight portion of the existing rod, then bent out and up 45 degrees, then back out at 90 degrees to the original rod. Basically targeting the center top of the existing opening. Then cut the excess off to slide into the rear of the button. The "junction' piece's rotation around the rods allows a little fore/aft play for connection, while keeping a rigid connection in the vertical axis.

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Next, I designed and printed a pull handle and created it to fit into the top left bolt hole that fastens the door cover on. There were naturally negative spaces on the left and right of the port for placing the snap in hole cover. I utilized these to keep the handle from rotating. Kind of a keyway design. One thing I struggled with was that the receiver for those two bolts is a plastic insert and I felt that yanking on the handle over time could weaken that, so I grabbed a 3" 5/16th carriage bolt from the HD that fit perfectly in the square hole of the door with the threads facing OUT. That way I can tighten the through bolt down from the outside for easy removal later. I had to remove the bracket from the door temporarily to install the carriage bolt.

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Lastly, I basically did the exact mod that WESAYSO has posted, but placed the button under the pull handle to protect it from shifting cargo and prying eyes. 10 bucks on amazon for 5 3 position switches with male paddle connectors. Look to their post for details.

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Ultimately, I think this recessed button design is the safest when it comes to shifting cargo. It seems very unlikely that anything would poke into a small opening AND push down, so I feel confident I won't lose my cargo all over the freeway. Here's a video of it in operation. Thanks for reading!


Dallas
 

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Exquisite.

There are a lot of commercially-available options for the door pull, but the recessed latch release is genius.

Any chance you'd share the files for the latch components?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Exquisite.

There are a lot of commercially-available options for the door pull, but the recessed latch release is genius.

Any chance you'd share the files for the latch components?
Thanks FJtest. Happy to. Here's a folder with the original Sketchup files and the associated STL files for print. Note that the FJ's existing rod is 5mm diameter, while I used 1/4" aluminum rod (6mm). If using any other diameter rod, you'd need to modify the clip and the button hole to reflect that diameter.

 

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Super neat mod! And very practical too, I hate getting locked in my FJ when I sleep in the back and having to climb over the front seats. Hahaha.
 

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Thanks FJtest. Happy to. Here's a folder with the original Sketchup files and the associated STL files for print. Note that the FJ's existing rod is 5mm diameter, while I used 1/4" aluminum rod (6mm). If using any other diameter rod, you'd need to modify the clip and the button hole to reflect that diameter. /QUOTE]

Many thanks for sharing such a cleanly-executed adaptation of the original door-opening mechanism. In my opinion, not having the ability to open the door from the inside was a major design flaw.

What material did you use for the rod coupler? That's the only part that's subject to any long-term stress from the interference fit over the rod. A friend of mine has been working with some carbon-fiber filled material that's extremely stiff and resistant to stress cracking, that might be a good candidate material for the coupler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Would you be interested in printing and selling the parts? I'd be interested in the parts.
Hey Norm, If you're not in a huge hurry to get them, I could do that. My work schedule is blowing up but might be able to print a batch next week. Maybe shipping plus 5 bucks for materials or something like that? What colors would you want ideally? I went blue for obvious reasons, but could do black, Grey or orange with the material I have right now.
 

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Black please! (so they are discrete and unlikely to be noticed by a thief if I leave my back window cracked open)
PM sent with contact info.

thank you for agreeing to make parts for me,
Norm
 
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