Thank you Dallas. You addressed a problem that was in desperate need of a solution and did so with a great design and result. Of the files posted which specific files are for the purpose of the rear door button (not the handle design) . Thank you again for your sharing.Thanks FJtest. Happy to. Here's a folder with the original Sketchup files and the associated STL files for print. Note that the FJ's existing rod is 5mm diameter, while I used 1/4" aluminum rod (6mm). If using any other diameter rod, you'd need to modify the clip and the button hole to reflect that diameter.
3D Printed Rear Door Latch release + lock switch
Hey everyone. First time posting here, but it's been an amazing resource for me so I wanted to give back. There have been several posts about this already and I want to thank especially WESAYSO and SONOF40 for the inspiration. I'm preparing to do more car camping with my FJ cruiser, so in anticipation of sleeping in the cab I needed a way to exit. Here's what I did:
There's already a small access port in the bottom left of the rear door inside panel, so I calipered it and quickly modeled it in Sketchup to form my parts around. I modeled an inset port that has snap fit sides to sink flush into the existing opening. I also modeled a "button" that will gently snap in to the rails on the "port" and keep it traveling vertically, but with a loose fit as to not bind.
![1163413]()
![1163414]()
![1163415]()
I was surprised this worked perfectly on the first try. But no complaints! I located the metal rod that moves vertically from the exterior handle and modeled a snap fit junction to intercept it with my own aluminum rod. The junction snap fits onto the existing rod and has a topside receiver for the aluminum rod I cut and bent to fit. This was a bit of a gut feeling shape. But in general I came up the length of the straight portion of the existing rod, then bent out and up 45 degrees, then back out at 90 degrees to the original rod. Basically targeting the center top of the existing opening. Then cut the excess off to slide into the rear of the button. The "junction' piece's rotation around the rods allows a little fore/aft play for connection, while keeping a rigid connection in the vertical axis.
![1163418]()
![1163419]()
![1163420]()
(SEE EDIT BELOW) Next, I designed and printed a pull handle and created it to fit into the top left bolt hole that fastens the door cover on. There were naturally negative spaces on the left and right of the port for placing the snap in hole cover. I utilized these to keep the handle from rotating. Kind of a keyway design. One thing I struggled with was that the receiver for those two bolts is a plastic insert and I felt that yanking on the handle over time could weaken that, so I grabbed a 3" 5/16th carriage bolt from the HD that fit perfectly in the square hole of the door with the threads facing OUT. That way I can tighten the through bolt down from the outside for easy removal later. I had to remove the bracket from the door temporarily to install the carriage bolt.
![1163424]()
Lastly, I basically did the exact mod that WESAYSO has posted, but placed the button under the pull handle to protect it from shifting cargo and prying eyes. 10 bucks on amazon for 5 3 position switches with male paddle connectors. Look to their post for details.
![1163425]()
Ultimately, I think this recessed button design is the safest when it comes to shifting cargo. It seems very unlikely that anything would poke into a small opening AND push down, so I feel confident I won't lose my cargo all over the freeway. Here's a video of it in operation. Thanks for reading!
Edit: If you'd like to print your own kit, here are the STL files and instructions to bend the rod. I suggest printing in PLA+ or better. Also, print the port face-down, the button lying on it's back with support and the handle on it's side with support.
UPDATE PLEASE READ!
Hey everyone. I was never really thrilled with my pull handle design and after field testing mine for some time now I’ve decided to redesign it. It looked cool, but I feel like it didn’t have the proper strength for hard pulls. I was throwing it in free-of-charge for that reason when people requested a set from me. I’m no longer making this particular part for people, but I’ll leave the file there in the event it’s still desired. The door release mechanism has remained unchanged and appears to be working well for everyone!
Instead I’ve come up with this soft handle design that I think is less intrusive and far more useful. The only time that the handle has truly been necessary for me is when bedding down for the night and needing to pull the door closed, so the distance to handle when standing on the rear bumper wasn’t ideal. The idea behind the soft handle is that you can clip longer webbing/rope to it when you want to pull from inside the truck. I had to source additional hardware and webbing for this design so if you’re interested in one, let me know. I have Black, Blue, Red and Orange webbing available.
![Tool Font Electric blue Cylinder Auto part]()
![Automotive tire Hood Tire Blue Bicycle tire]()
One other thing! I know it’s not obvious, but if you’re new to the forum and you need to DM me for a request, you must FIRST post a reply in the forum here or anywhere and your DM capability will be unlocked.
Dallas
There's already a small access port in the bottom left of the rear door inside panel, so I calipered it and quickly modeled it in Sketchup to form my parts around. I modeled an inset port that has snap fit sides to sink flush into the existing opening. I also modeled a "button" that will gently snap in to the rails on the "port" and keep it traveling vertically, but with a loose fit as to not bind.
I was surprised this worked perfectly on the first try. But no complaints! I located the metal rod that moves vertically from the exterior handle and modeled a snap fit junction to intercept it with my own aluminum rod. The junction snap fits onto the existing rod and has a topside receiver for the aluminum rod I cut and bent to fit. This was a bit of a gut feeling shape. But in general I came up the length of the straight portion of the existing rod, then bent out and up 45 degrees, then back out at 90 degrees to the original rod. Basically targeting the center top of the existing opening. Then cut the excess off to slide into the rear of the button. The "junction' piece's rotation around the rods allows a little fore/aft play for connection, while keeping a rigid connection in the vertical axis.
(SEE EDIT BELOW) Next, I designed and printed a pull handle and created it to fit into the top left bolt hole that fastens the door cover on. There were naturally negative spaces on the left and right of the port for placing the snap in hole cover. I utilized these to keep the handle from rotating. Kind of a keyway design. One thing I struggled with was that the receiver for those two bolts is a plastic insert and I felt that yanking on the handle over time could weaken that, so I grabbed a 3" 5/16th carriage bolt from the HD that fit perfectly in the square hole of the door with the threads facing OUT. That way I can tighten the through bolt down from the outside for easy removal later. I had to remove the bracket from the door temporarily to install the carriage bolt.
Lastly, I basically did the exact mod that WESAYSO has posted, but placed the button under the pull handle to protect it from shifting cargo and prying eyes. 10 bucks on amazon for 5 3 position switches with male paddle connectors. Look to their post for details.
Ultimately, I think this recessed button design is the safest when it comes to shifting cargo. It seems very unlikely that anything would poke into a small opening AND push down, so I feel confident I won't lose my cargo all over the freeway. Here's a video of it in operation. Thanks for reading!
Edit: If you'd like to print your own kit, here are the STL files and instructions to bend the rod. I suggest printing in PLA+ or better. Also, print the port face-down, the button lying on it's back with support and the handle on it's side with support.
UPDATE PLEASE READ!
Hey everyone. I was never really thrilled with my pull handle design and after field testing mine for some time now I’ve decided to redesign it. It looked cool, but I feel like it didn’t have the proper strength for hard pulls. I was throwing it in free-of-charge for that reason when people requested a set from me. I’m no longer making this particular part for people, but I’ll leave the file there in the event it’s still desired. The door release mechanism has remained unchanged and appears to be working well for everyone!
Instead I’ve come up with this soft handle design that I think is less intrusive and far more useful. The only time that the handle has truly been necessary for me is when bedding down for the night and needing to pull the door closed, so the distance to handle when standing on the rear bumper wasn’t ideal. The idea behind the soft handle is that you can clip longer webbing/rope to it when you want to pull from inside the truck. I had to source additional hardware and webbing for this design so if you’re interested in one, let me know. I have Black, Blue, Red and Orange webbing available.
One other thing! I know it’s not obvious, but if you’re new to the forum and you need to DM me for a request, you must FIRST post a reply in the forum here or anywhere and your DM capability will be unlocked.
Dallas
261 - 280 of 324 Posts
Follow up, 1 year later: the RP internal remote latch lever, and pull handle are both still working great, but I found one improvement for the handle. The concern is that it kept coming loose, and re-tightening the nut eventually cracked its base. So, I added a steel collar to take the load instead of just the plastic.
Background: resin under continuous load will creep over time (or bend and crack), the column loading from the center nut/washer caused mine to become loose and cracked the handle (as did using it to pull the door closed).
Adding the steel collar allows the steel to take the nut / screw torque (and the door pulling force) and the epoxy holds the resin handle to that (similar to how an OEM would do it, except they’d use a knurled spacer and insert it with heat).
Here's how I did it:
Back Door Handle updates:
1) I added a radius to the sharp edges (with a file), just for comfort while using it.
![Wood Bicycle part Thumb Electric blue Auto part]()
![Finger Bicycle part Bumper Wood Electric blue]()
2) bore out center hole from 15/32” -> 1/2” so that commonly available hardware store spacers will fit.
I used a pair of 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD x 1" long galvanized steel spacers as the inner steel collar.
3) because the spacers are 1" long I used two of them and then increased the depth of the counterbore (visible in the photo above) +1/8” deeper, so the resulting center hole length is 2” long (original was 2 1/8”). I used a 3/4” spade bit (not pretty, but effective enough as a face bore in this case). Make sure the spade bit does not have spikes at the ends of its wings (you want a flat for the washer to lay on).
4) buy 2 of 3/8” x 1/2” x 1” galvanized steel spacers
![Wood Rectangle Electric blue Font Sleeve]()
5) score little “x” shapes into the outsides of the spacers, all around their outer surface with a hack saw for the epoxy to key to
![Automotive tire Wood Rim Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system]()
![Water Automotive tire Wood Gas Bumper]()
6) epoxy the spacers into the center hole (make sure the washer is seated fully onto the new counterbored surface). I used a suitably sized socket to push down on a bolt through the center hole, and then squoze the epoxied assembly lightly in a vice until the epoxy cured. The goal is for no gap between the spacers, the washer at the bottom of the counterbore and the other end of the handle, so the steel column takes all of the load.
![Wood Automotive tire Button Electric blue Recreation]()
7) re-assemble. The result should be stronger and more long lasting (and more resistant to damage from normal use)
Norm
Background: resin under continuous load will creep over time (or bend and crack), the column loading from the center nut/washer caused mine to become loose and cracked the handle (as did using it to pull the door closed).
Adding the steel collar allows the steel to take the nut / screw torque (and the door pulling force) and the epoxy holds the resin handle to that (similar to how an OEM would do it, except they’d use a knurled spacer and insert it with heat).
Here's how I did it:
Back Door Handle updates:
1) I added a radius to the sharp edges (with a file), just for comfort while using it.
2) bore out center hole from 15/32” -> 1/2” so that commonly available hardware store spacers will fit.
I used a pair of 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD x 1" long galvanized steel spacers as the inner steel collar.
3) because the spacers are 1" long I used two of them and then increased the depth of the counterbore (visible in the photo above) +1/8” deeper, so the resulting center hole length is 2” long (original was 2 1/8”). I used a 3/4” spade bit (not pretty, but effective enough as a face bore in this case). Make sure the spade bit does not have spikes at the ends of its wings (you want a flat for the washer to lay on).
4) buy 2 of 3/8” x 1/2” x 1” galvanized steel spacers
5) score little “x” shapes into the outsides of the spacers, all around their outer surface with a hack saw for the epoxy to key to
6) epoxy the spacers into the center hole (make sure the washer is seated fully onto the new counterbored surface). I used a suitably sized socket to push down on a bolt through the center hole, and then squoze the epoxied assembly lightly in a vice until the epoxy cured. The goal is for no gap between the spacers, the washer at the bottom of the counterbore and the other end of the handle, so the steel column takes all of the load.
7) re-assemble. The result should be stronger and more long lasting (and more resistant to damage from normal use)
Norm
How much for the 3D printed rear door latch?Hey everyone,
Just posted my design for my sleeping platform if anyone is interested. It basically was the inspiration for this latch design. Just got around to writing it up. Maybe it'll inspire you, too!
Low profile sleeping platform design
Hey fellow FJ fanatics! With the surprise success of my 3D printed rear door mod... 3D Printed Rear Door Latch release + lock switch I thought I’d share another of my FJ projects in case it fits the bill for anyone else’s needs. I wanted to make my FJ sleepable while keeping it flexible for my...www.fjcruiserforums.com
Dallas
A video has been done by @LiL13izzy7
3D Printed Rear Door Latch release + lock switch | Page 5 | Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum (fjcruiserforums.com)
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Everyone needs to read the thread. Lots of info, links and videos to assist you.
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261 - 280 of 324 Posts
