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If it is not too late, I would like to purchase black/grey. Or whichever version that is easiest to make. Thanks.
 

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Hey everybody.

I just popped up to Yosemite to sleep in my truck and try out my latch and came back to this. I'm flattered. I'm pretty busy, but I'm going to try to make these for everyone if you don't mind being a little patient. If all of you who are interested in a set don't mind sending me a PM with your specific colors listed that would be helpful for me to organize this. Please specify if you would like the Handle. It's the longest part to print, so if it's not desired it'll speed up the process for me significantly. So let's format the request like this:

Handle - Yes/No. If yes, Black, Grey, Red, Orange, Blue, or White?
Port color - Black, Grey, Red, Orange, Blue, or White?
Button color - Black, Grey, Red, Orange, Blue, or White?

The internal linkage will be whatever color was on the printer last, but won't be visible. Finally, as everyone has suggested, $20 seems reasonable for the effort, so that's what we'll do. But I'll go ahead and include the aluminum rod already bent to match mine so you won't need any additional materials to install. All snap fit for the release parts.

Thanks!
Dallas
I would like to get one of these, but can't figure out how to do w private message.
 

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2008 FJ Cruiser
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Hey everybody.

I just popped up to Yosemite to sleep in my truck and try out my latch and came back to this. I'm flattered. I'm pretty busy, but I'm going to try to make these for everyone if you don't mind being a little patient. If all of you who are interested in a set don't mind sending me a PM with your specific colors listed that would be helpful for me to organize this. Please specify if you would like the Handle. It's the longest part to print, so if it's not desired it'll speed up the process for me significantly. So let's format the request like this:

Handle - Yes/No. If yes, Black, Grey, Red, Orange, Blue, or White?
Port color - Black, Grey, Red, Orange, Blue, or White?
Button color - Black, Grey, Red, Orange, Blue, or White?

The internal linkage will be whatever color was on the printer last, but won't be visible. Finally, as everyone has suggested, $20 seems reasonable for the effort, so that's what we'll do. But I'll go ahead and include the aluminum rod already bent to match mine so you won't need any additional materials to install. All snap fit for the release parts.

Thanks!
Dallas
Handle Yes Black, Grey or White (whatever you have loaded)
Port Same as above
Button Same as above

Very nice mod, thank you
 

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Hey @dallassterling - if you’re gonna make a few of these, I will 1000% pay you for a black one. I’m gonna go on a road trip in august and plan on sleeping in the truck, this would be huge. Not in any kind of real rush right now, but yeah, would absolutely Venmo/PayPal you for this!

handle: yes, black
Port: black
Button: black
 

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This is perfect! I've been struggling to come up with a good design for awhile. Unfortunately I don't have a 3D printer either.

If you decide to make a small batch, I'd definitely be interested!
 

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Hey @dallassterling - if you’re gonna make a few of these, I will 1000% pay you for a black one. I’m gonna go on a road trip in august and plan on sleeping in the truck, this would be huge. Not in any kind of real rush right now, but yeah, would absolutely Venmo/PayPal you for this!

handle: yes, black
Port: black
Button: black
I second this!
 

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Mine has arrived. Black handle with carriage bolt, washer and nyloc nut, black trim with a red door latch release, black coupler and the preformed rod.

Dallas recommended this switch;

And references this thread on wiring said switch;

If you don't want to wire a switch in, you can use your FOB to unlock the rear door when you're inside.

Excellent quality, bubble wrapped and boxed well, arrived in 3 days via UPS w/ tracking.

Thank you!
 

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Received mine the other day. Thoroughly impressed with the ingenuity in the door latch release switch along with the handle, all in black. Extremely convenient that it's a drop in unit. Appreciate the quick turnaround and shipping too. Looking forward to installing it this weekend!
 

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2011 FJ Cruiser Iceberg
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Just finished installing mine, as you can see in the second picture I had plenty of help (Tina supervising the mounting)

It was a bitch getting the cover on because I had to have my rack mounted prior to attaching the panel

1164650

1164651
 

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Mine just arrived! Excellent parts, can't wait to install it this weekend.
I think the Dallas Door Mod will be one of those must have upgrades.
Heck, give it a little bit and I bet some new owners will assume it's OEM. 😁
 

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I wish I had these skills but I don’t so I would like to buck up and order a set. Handle yes red, port black, and button red. Thank you for making these available!
 

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Installed, works perfect, thanks Dallas!

Combined with the window mod this makes sleeping and err, recreating back there, waaaaaayyyyyy better.

Clicking the pieces together had me stymied until I circled back to your excellent instructions. I hate doing documentation so much as a software engineer it always feels awkward to RTFM but once again, rumors confirmed, it can save you grief.
 

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Hey everyone. First time posting here, but it's been an amazing resource for me so I wanted to give back. There have been several posts about this already and I want to thank especially WESAYSO and SONOF40 for the inspiration. I'm preparing to do more car camping with my FJ cruiser, so in anticipation of sleeping in the cab I needed a way to exit. Here's what I did:

There's already a small access port in the bottom left of the rear door inside panel, so I calipered it and quickly modeled it in Sketchup to form my parts around. I modeled an inset port that has snap fit sides to sink flush into the existing opening. I also modeled a "button" that will gently snap in to the rails on the "port" and keep it traveling vertically, but with a loose fit as to not bind.

View attachment 1163413 View attachment 1163414 View attachment 1163415

I was surprised this worked perfectly on the first try. But no complaints! I located the metal rod that moves vertically from the exterior handle and modeled a snap fit junction to intercept it with my own aluminum rod. The junction snap fits onto the existing rod and has a topside receiver for the aluminum rod I cut and bent to fit. This was a bit of a gut feeling shape. But in general I came up the length of the straight portion of the existing rod, then bent out and up 45 degrees, then back out at 90 degrees to the original rod. Basically targeting the center top of the existing opening. Then cut the excess off to slide into the rear of the button. The "junction' piece's rotation around the rods allows a little fore/aft play for connection, while keeping a rigid connection in the vertical axis.

View attachment 1163418 View attachment 1163419 View attachment 1163420

Next, I designed and printed a pull handle and created it to fit into the top left bolt hole that fastens the door cover on. There were naturally negative spaces on the left and right of the port for placing the snap in hole cover. I utilized these to keep the handle from rotating. Kind of a keyway design. One thing I struggled with was that the receiver for those two bolts is a plastic insert and I felt that yanking on the handle over time could weaken that, so I grabbed a 3" 5/16th carriage bolt from the HD that fit perfectly in the square hole of the door with the threads facing OUT. That way I can tighten the through bolt down from the outside for easy removal later. I had to remove the bracket from the door temporarily to install the carriage bolt.

View attachment 1163421 View attachment 1163422 View attachment 1163424

Lastly, I basically did the exact mod that WESAYSO has posted, but placed the button under the pull handle to protect it from shifting cargo and prying eyes. 10 bucks on amazon for 5 3 position switches with male paddle connectors. Look to their post for details.

View attachment 1163425

Ultimately, I think this recessed button design is the safest when it comes to shifting cargo. It seems very unlikely that anything would poke into a small opening AND push down, so I feel confident I won't lose my cargo all over the freeway. Here's a video of it in operation. Thanks for reading!


Dallas

Just wanted to give a shout out To Dallas for the genius design of the 3 D printed door release mechanism, work perfect and look very stock.
As far as the momentary switches to unlock , lock and pop out rear window I did a little different. I used the covers that hide the 10mm screws that need to be removed when taken off the panel and installed my switches in them instead of drilling a hole in the back panel . the one button switch unlocks the door from inside and then using the door releas e mechanism that Dallas provided open the door from the inside. the other momentary switch installed on the other side will lock door with one push and if you hold it down pop rear window . The wiring was done the same way as Dallas did his install .

Here are some pics

Hey everyone. First time posting here, but it's been an amazing resource for me so I wanted to give back. There have been several posts about this already and I want to thank especially WESAYSO and SONOF40 for the inspiration. I'm preparing to do more car camping with my FJ cruiser, so in anticipation of sleeping in the cab I needed a way to exit. Here's what I did:

There's already a small access port in the bottom left of the rear door inside panel, so I calipered it and quickly modeled it in Sketchup to form my parts around. I modeled an inset port that has snap fit sides to sink flush into the existing opening. I also modeled a "button" that will gently snap in to the rails on the "port" and keep it traveling vertically, but with a loose fit as to not bind.

View attachment 1163413 View attachment 1163414 View attachment 1163415

I was surprised this worked perfectly on the first try. But no complaints! I located the metal rod that moves vertically from the exterior handle and modeled a snap fit junction to intercept it with my own aluminum rod. The junction snap fits onto the existing rod and has a topside receiver for the aluminum rod I cut and bent to fit. This was a bit of a gut feeling shape. But in general I came up the length of the straight portion of the existing rod, then bent out and up 45 degrees, then back out at 90 degrees to the original rod. Basically targeting the center top of the existing opening. Then cut the excess off to slide into the rear of the button. The "junction' piece's rotation around the rods allows a little fore/aft play for connection, while keeping a rigid connection in the vertical axis.

View attachment 1163418 View attachment 1163419 View attachment 1163420

Next, I designed and printed a pull handle and created it to fit into the top left bolt hole that fastens the door cover on. There were naturally negative spaces on the left and right of the port for placing the snap in hole cover. I utilized these to keep the handle from rotating. Kind of a keyway design. One thing I struggled with was that the receiver for those two bolts is a plastic insert and I felt that yanking on the handle over time could weaken that, so I grabbed a 3" 5/16th carriage bolt from the HD that fit perfectly in the square hole of the door with the threads facing OUT. That way I can tighten the through bolt down from the outside for easy removal later. I had to remove the bracket from the door temporarily to install the carriage bolt.

View attachment 1163421 View attachment 1163422 View attachment 1163424

Lastly, I basically did the exact mod that WESAYSO has posted, but placed the button under the pull handle to protect it from shifting cargo and prying eyes. 10 bucks on amazon for 5 3 position switches with male paddle connectors. Look to their post for details.

View attachment 1163425

Ultimately, I think this recessed button design is the safest when it comes to shifting cargo. It seems very unlikely that anything would poke into a small opening AND push down, so I feel confident I won't lose my cargo all over the freeway. Here's a video of it in operation. Thanks for reading!


Dallas
Hey everyone. First time posting here, but it's been an amazing resource for me so I wanted to give back. There have been several posts about this already and I want to thank especially WESAYSO and SONOF40 for the inspiration. I'm preparing to do more car camping with my FJ cruiser, so in anticipation of sleeping in the cab I needed a way to exit. Here's what I did:

There's already a small access port in the bottom left of the rear door inside panel, so I calipered it and quickly modeled it in Sketchup to form my parts around. I modeled an inset port that has snap fit sides to sink flush into the existing opening. I also modeled a "button" that will gently snap in to the rails on the "port" and keep it traveling vertically, but with a loose fit as to not bind.

View attachment 1163413 View attachment 1163414 View attachment 1163415

I was surprised this worked perfectly on the first try. But no complaints! I located the metal rod that moves vertically from the exterior handle and modeled a snap fit junction to intercept it with my own aluminum rod. The junction snap fits onto the existing rod and has a topside receiver for the aluminum rod I cut and bent to fit. This was a bit of a gut feeling shape. But in general I came up the length of the straight portion of the existing rod, then bent out and up 45 degrees, then back out at 90 degrees to the original rod. Basically targeting the center top of the existing opening. Then cut the excess off to slide into the rear of the button. The "junction' piece's rotation around the rods allows a little fore/aft play for connection, while keeping a rigid connection in the vertical axis.

View attachment 1163418 View attachment 1163419 View attachment 1163420

Next, I designed and printed a pull handle and created it to fit into the top left bolt hole that fastens the door cover on. There were naturally negative spaces on the left and right of the port for placing the snap in hole cover. I utilized these to keep the handle from rotating. Kind of a keyway design. One thing I struggled with was that the receiver for those two bolts is a plastic insert and I felt that yanking on the handle over time could weaken that, so I grabbed a 3" 5/16th carriage bolt from the HD that fit perfectly in the square hole of the door with the threads facing OUT. That way I can tighten the through bolt down from the outside for easy removal later. I had to remove the bracket from the door temporarily to install the carriage bolt.

View attachment 1163421 View attachment 1163422 View attachment 1163424

Lastly, I basically did the exact mod that WESAYSO has posted, but placed the button under the pull handle to protect it from shifting cargo and prying eyes. 10 bucks on amazon for 5 3 position switches with male paddle connectors. Look to their post for details.

View attachment 1163425

Ultimately, I think this recessed button design is the safest when it comes to shifting cargo. It seems very unlikely that anything would poke into a small opening AND push down, so I feel confident I won't lose my cargo all over the freeway. Here's a video of it in operation. Thanks for reading!


Dallas
 
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