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I did this 3 years ago, fixed it until recently. I have noticed a few times that it is coming back. It has to do with the short throw and angle of attack of the shaft.
 

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I just recently had the driveshaft replaced in my 2012. I bought it back in December and noticed the thunk shortly after. I tried greasing it good but didn’t help. I bought an extended warranty when I bought it and they covered the new driveshaft. But even after having it replaced I still get the bump. It’s nit quite as bad as before but it’s still there. I mainly notice it when I come to a complete stop and I take my foot off the brake.

Anyone got any other ideas to eliminate the issue? Or is there something else I can look for since I have a new shaft? Sometimes it just feels like something is loose. Thanks for the help.
 

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I have an appointment tomorrow with Joel at Drive Lines Inc in Mission Viejo. He said he's fixed a lot of Toyota drive systems. They get a lot of lifted trucks. He said the Toyota update made the situation better but did not eliminate the problem. When he rebuilds drive shafts he drills a small relief hole behind the spiders to equalize pressure. This reduces the suction on the splines which get bound up. While he's in there he checks the preloads on the TC yoke and rear pinion yoke. The U-joints get replaced and he checks the shaft for true / balance. He said lot's of Toyota 4x4's have similar issues.
 

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I'm going to have to call drive lines inc. i bought my fj last year from a dealer in long beach and a bit of research showed it had 2 owners who lived in the area and combined they put 87k on the clock. i began to notice the clunk in the hotter months here in southern nevada and it would go away during the winter. so i guess the outside temp has an effect on the grease inside the slip joint which is probably crap since i performed a complete fluid change on the front and rear diff and the t case and the fluids haven't been touched since japan in 2010. rear diff and t case were not too bad but the front diff was black like used oil so i know the shafts haven't been lubed. luckily judging by its condition when i inspected the undercarriage at the dealer who just took it in for trade and closely when i got home, this baby was a full time city driver. next up is complete lube job on the shafts and I'm thinking to use lucas NLGI #2 or valvoline dura blend or amsoil. any thoughts?
 

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The guys who turned me on to Drivelines Inc are at J&S Gear Co. They do a lot of Toyota gear changes and drive FJ's. They got under my truck and said "you don't need gears. The rear drive line needs to be rebuilt." I had a low howl that was intermittent between 35 and 50 MPH, and the bump. Once the drive shaft heated up it went away. I can't really blame the drive shaft because the previous owner never greased it. Rebuilt the drive shaft, all problems solved.

Update March 2019:
I had a company called Drive Lines rebuild my drive shaft and add the hole. After 6 months the bump came back, not as bad. I went to J&S Gear Co and they told me to buy a new re-engineered drive shaft from Wholesale Import Parts which is just down the street. It has a vent hole in the top of the slip yoke and cost me $281.60 with free shipping. Everything is greaseable and replaceable. One year warranty. I'm sure it will wear out too but they had some words of advice - use moly grease and lube it every oil change. https://www.wholesaleimportparts.com...shaft_2010.php
 

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Here's an update! I got tired of the rebuilt driveshaft binding so I bought a brand new one from Wholesale Imports just down the street for $300.00 (FYI free shipping). They had a drive shaft ready for me in two days. The build quality is really impressive. For now no more bump, vibration, or weird sounds. Take a look at the build (pictures). My mechanic was impressed.

The U-joints are Spicer and clipped in so they can be replaced. All joints have zerk fittings and the slip yoke is vented in the middle.

If anyone wants my old drive shaft they can have it for the cost of shipping or pick up locally! It is pretty beat and still usable, just not new. I think it would have done better if it had been lubricated as scheduled.
 

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