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So I recently read the latest off road article on 2 different lift kits for a Tacoma and a 4 Runner. The Tacoma was outfiitted with a Rough Country 3 inch coilover kit and the 4 Runner was outfitted with an Old Man Emu kit. The magazine article raved about how well the Tacoma drove on road, tracking very solid with no wandering issues reported. The 4 Runner used a more basic Old Man Emu kit. What I find interesting is NIETHER installs were outfitted with Upper Control Arms, which many people believe are required for a properly driving vehicle because of caster going out of spec.

What is even more interesting to me is that there is an article regarding how crucial proper wheel offset is for a properly driving vehicle. I am new to my research on lifting my FJ, but have always had the thought in the back of my head that many driveability issues with lifting the FJ while using stock Upper Control Arms resulted from use of wide offset wheels upon install of the lift. Since many people install their new wheels and tires at the same time as the lift kit the alignment is automatically suspected to be the cause of the wandering.

When I used to ride sport quads (ATV) we used to install longer suspension on the front then use a wheel that was more inset to reduce handlebar feedback while adding travel. Basically the more of the wheel that could be inside the axis of the ball joints the better. The results were less fatigue to the rider due to less effort needed at the handlebars to keep the quad tracking straight.

Am I wrong in thinking that if I use a 2.5 front top spacer on front with a 1.25 coil spacer in the rear of my FJ while retaining the OEM TRD wheels, OEM Bilsteins, STOCK Upper Control Arms with a 285/75/16 BFG AT tire that my truck will practically drive like it does now in stock form after the alignment is reset as close to spec as it will go with the stock Upper Control Arms? My goal is to lift my FJ but retain the driving charactaristics as close to stock as possible.
 

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Spacers suck, get the OME setup from Metal Tech and worry about the UCAs later if you feel the need. Tons of Peeps here run this exact setup without issue. Spacers put stress on the stock UCAs and will ruin them, I speak from experience.

Metal Tech will send you a fully built OME coil over ready to install so you dont have to mess with a spring compressor. The do ask that you send your old coil overs to them so they can use to top hats on the next set and they provide a shipping label for return.

https://www.metaltech4x4.com/m-10-old-man-emu.aspx
 

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Spacers suck, get the OME setup from Metal Tech and worry about the UCAs later if you feel the need. Tons of Peeps here run this exact setup without issue. Spacers put stress on the stock UCAs and will ruin them, I speak from experience.

Metal Tech will send you a fully built OME coil over ready to install so you dont have to mess with a spring compressor. The do ask that you send your old coil overs to them so they can use to top hats on the next set and they provide a shipping label for return.

https://www.metaltech4x4.com/m-10-old-man-emu.aspx
x2

If you are doing the install yourself, getting them this way from metal-tech will save you roughly 50 bucks from having to have the top retaining plate swapped at a auto shop. Not to mention the fact that you need to make sure you know how the thing should align or you are going to have a heck of a problem getting them back in. I have swapped 6-7 suspensions out, this is a crucial step.

And spacer lifts do suck. You are simply re-using the stock suspension that was not made for offroad use. OME are a great value for the price and designed for offroad use.
 

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Spacers suck, get the OME setup from Metal Tech and worry about the UCAs later if you feel the need. Tons of Peeps here run this exact setup without issue. Spacers put stress on the stock UCAs and will ruin them, I speak from experience.

Metal Tech will send you a fully built OME coil over ready to install so you dont have to mess with a spring compressor. The do ask that you send your old coil overs to them so they can use to top hats on the next set and they provide a shipping label for return.

https://www.metaltech4x4.com/m-10-old-man-emu.aspx

Or you can sneak into the back bay of Midas and offer the mech a twelver of Corona to assemble the strut assembly for you. :cheers:

Disclaimer: Will not work in some or most of Utah. Your results may vary.

However I do concur that the OME setup is far superior since you're not extending the length of the strut assembly by much, you're just putting on a stiffer spring which sags less under the weight of the car. It will still need aligned, and yes, when I took mine back to get it aligned they ran the caster as far is it could go but I really do not see any change in driveability.... but then I'm usually driving on sheet ice and snow, which likely reduces turning resistance so get back to me in June...
 

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I have Bilstein 5100 adjustables up front set on the highest level and 2" rear Toytec lift springs and still riding on the stock TRD wheels and my FJ still wanders when driving on the highway. I am gonna say that your theory is no good on the issue.
 

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I have Bilstein 5100 adjustables up front set on the highest level and 2" rear Toytec lift springs and still riding on the stock TRD wheels and my FJ still wanders when driving on the highway. I am gonna say that your theory is no good on the issue.
I'm not sure which post you are responding to, but What is the maximum height on the adjustable you have? If they are cranked all the way up, your drive-ability issues may be from the inability, to really get your front end in alignment spec. Your truck will wander , if that's the case. You may want to take some of the lift out of the front and have it re aligned. With the coils, cranked all the way, you also loose droop and it puts your cv's at a steep angle, all the time . Were you just trying to get rid of the front rake, by cranking it all the way?
thanks
Don
 

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It really does not matter. The 5100's do not work the way you think and no I was not trying to eliminate the "rake". I have a front and rear lift, read my original post again. My earlier response was to the OP regarding the idea that a wider track + lift = wandering. From all my research I have found it is due to the limited adjustability of the uppper A arms when lifted. I actually only have about 2.5 inches of lift up front and 2 in the rear and if I dropped the front down one notch I would have to pull the rear lift springs out and put the factory back in. My FJ has been setup ths way for nearly 2 years and has been off road a half dozen times without any issues and the cv's look just fine.
 
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