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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,
I have about $500 to spend on upgrading my car's audio system. I have the JBL 11 Speaker System in a '14. I listen to a lot of country and hip hop/rap. I know very little about car audio. I've been trolling around the forum for a while but I figured I'd post my own thread.

The system has been suffering from this issue. http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...rical/135123-jbl-11-speaker-audio-system.html I tried to get the dealer to fix it but they said that it was not an issue with build quality/warranty but that the speakers couldn't keep up with the bass if I turned it up to 20. I went to a car audio store and they backed up what the dealer said stating that that I was overworking my bass (the JBL sub in the back). They tried to sell me on a set of 10s.

I'm not convinced that the issue is with the JBL Sub in the back but rather with the speakers in the door, because that's where the rattling comes from. I'm tempted to think are the same as those in in the base system even with the JBL upgrade. Is this the case?

If so would upgrading the door speakers fix the problem?

If so which door speakers should I get brand etc?

Besides the door speakers (a good pair would cost about 200?) where should I spend my money?

Its also worth mentioning that unlike the thread I linked there is not vibrating in the body panel. The base shakes the whole door but nothing is loose so I don't think sound deading material is the answer though I may put some in if I upgrade the speakers.

Any and all answers would be much appreciated.
 

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yeah well you really do need to sound deaden the doors and back hatch no matter if you replace speakers or not ... what I would do is replace the head-unit and add good 6x9 speakers in the front doors and tweeters in the dash, then get a decent sub at some point(even a bazooka) you can do it all fairly inexpensive using a single din head-unit and good 6x9s and tweeters here are some links/starting point

head-unit

Pioneer DEH-X7600HD CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEHX7600HD-Receiver-Mixtrax-Radio/dp/B00GS7XWXG

other good choices on head-units would be Alpine or Clarion

6x9s

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refe...&qid=1426383115&sr=1-2&keywords=6x9s+speakers

tweeters

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refe...426383179&sr=1-20&keywords=tweeters+car+audio

or 3.5 for the dash

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-A8...26383404&sr=1-5&keywords=3.5+speakers+for+car

Bazooka Sub powered (means you would not need a amp)

http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-BTA85...9&sr=1-1&keywords=bazooka+subwoofer+amplified

that head-unit would run the front speakers fine but a decent amp would make a huge difference

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-44...6383873&sr=1-1&keywords=alpine+power+pack+amp

EVERYTHING about the factory system is JUNK the head-unit is junk the speakers are junk the sub is junk so i don't recommend mixing aftermarket with the factory system in anyway shape or form ! this is a starting point, everything i listed there would be under 500.00 and the sub and amp aren't a have to right now
 

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ZoSo knows what he's talking about here, I am now the proud owner of a system that I should have had two years ago. Take his advice, he knows how to set these trucks up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the advice ZoSoIV, you clearly know your stuff.

yeah well you really do need to sound deaden the doors and back hatch no matter if you replace speakers or not ... what I would do is replace the head-unit and add good 6x9 speakers in the front doors and tweeters in the dash, then get a decent sub at some point(even a bazooka) you can do it all fairly inexpensive using a single din head-unit and good 6x9s and tweeters here are some links/starting point
I'll add sound deadening material to the build.

As for the head unit I'm not gonna lie I like the Toyota one compared to the after market offerings in terms of ascetics and usability. The aftermarket ones generally seem to have a lot of 'swag' with flashy multicolored displays and such but miniscule, hard to read buttons. The one you listed is somewhat better however isn't the toyota one 2din so wouldn't a single din fit awkwardly or have to be stacked with a CB or other type of receiver which I'm not planning on getting. Also once you factor in making the steering wheel controls work, the satellite radio and Bluetooth for my phone couldn't it get expensive? Instead of upgrading the header could I get the amp you listed and have that compensate? Also churchfield has a section on upgrading the factory header. Is this something worth pursuing?

I like the speakers you linked however should I be looking at a component setup for better quality?

As for the tweeters you linked where should the first pair be installed? in the doors?

As for a sub I think I might save up and get this JL Audio Stealthbox® Custom-fit fiberglass enclosure with 12" W1v3-2 subwoofer Fits 2007-up Toyota FJ Cruiser at Crutchfield.com in the future.

Thanks again for all for all your advice. I'm exited to start on this :grin
 

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if you do the sound deadening yourself it can be done fairly inexpensive 80mm thick is about 100.00 for 50 square feet and the 50mm is about 80.00 for 50 sq ft

Rattle Trap 50 sqft Car Audio Sound Deadener Super Stick Super Thick Formula | eBay

you don't need both the 3.5 and tweeters just one of the other which would go in the dash where the factory speakers are now

the Toyota head-unit is made to fit the factory hole it is not really a two din, the, why i listed the single din was because of your low budget it will fit fine with a dash kit



Scosche TA-2074B Dash Kit Fits select 2007-up Toyota FJ Cruiser vehicles ? single-DIN radios at Crutchfield.com

the component yes would be better sound quality , but you"re talking 1500.00 and up to do it right , the factory head unit isn't going to give you a correct signal to make components and sub sound very good, factory head-unit has no factory preout and a very poor output signal , to use an amp with the factory head unit you would need a line out converter which creates noise and a poor signal , i would not recommend using the factory head unit as i said in the my other post a good system is only as good as it weakest link

and idea on what you will spend on a two way component system with a sub , about 1200.00 dollars plus the cables install, sub enclosure etc , so your probably pushing around 2 grand

speakers

CTX65CS Image Dynamics 6 5" Pro Component Speakers Mids Crossovers Tweeters New | eBay

sub

http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-10W3...e=UTF8&qid=1426439701&sr=1-2&keywords=jl+10w3

plus enclosure cost

amp

Amazon.com : JL Audio XD500/3 500W 3-Channel XD-Series Car Amplifer : Audio Component Amplifiers : Automotive

and head-unit , Double Din with sub preouts , since you don't like the single din?

Pioneer AVH-X1600DVD DVD receiver at Crutchfield.com

this one has NO bluetooth or Sat radio and is 2 volt preouts ^^^

one that does, no bluetooth though has sat radio and 4 volt preouts

http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_113DDX271/Kenwood-DDX271.html?cc=07&tp=20217

sat radio, bluetooth a 2 volt preouts

http://wwv.crutchfield.com/g_168550/In-dash-Video-Receivers.html?tp=20217

4 volt preouts and sat radio and bluetooth

http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_113DDX392/Kenwood-Excelon-DDX392.html?tp=20217

look though the list

http://wwv.crutchfield.com/g_168550/In-dash-Video-Receivers.html?tp=20217

remember ANYTHING that you have or think you want to keep factory is very poor quality compared to the things listed and will compromise a system, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
 

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Discussion Starter #10
All right so I've been thinking about this a bunch, I talked to some friends who have done car audio and I talked to the store that will probably do much of the installing. Anyway I ended up second guessing myself a bunch and tripling my budget. I should have the funds for the full build by the end of the summer (also doing wheel spacers and a level with bilsteins).

Right now to fix the problem with the base in the doors I plan on putting in
JL Audio C2-650X Evolution? C2 Series 6-3/4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com
And dynamating or rattletrapping the doors.

I also want to switch out the speakers in the dash seeing as I have the cash right now. I could put tweeters in there but I'm not sure the stock head unit could support them as ZoSo said. I could try putting in 3.5 speakers
JL Audio C2-350x Evolution? C2 Series 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com
but Crutchfield says that they dont fit. I chatted with one of the guys online and he said that there wasn't enough room between the cover and where the speaker would be mounted to fit the tweeters. Is this really the case? if so could I neatly cut a hole the cover to make them fit?

I plan on installing the dash speakers myself and letting the shop do the doors, is this a logical for someone with limited skills? Will I need a different bracket or harness for the dash speakers?

In the future (end of summer) I plan on putting in a clean sweep (I want my stock head unit!), 2 10s or a 12 and the appropriate amps. (I'll probably make a separate thread for that part of the build)

Am I on track here? Am I an idiot? Am I horribly misguided? Thanks ZoHo and VWhillbilly for your help so far.
 

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I think you are on track.
I don't know about the fitment of 3.5" speakers in the dash.

If I mess with mine I'll so some A pillar pods like ZoSo has in his, they are sweet.
 

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The 3-1/2 come with grills if you have to cut the factory grills so that will work , if it were me I would just let the installer do it all , another option in put tweeters in the APillars and unhook the factory dash speakers...the factory head unit will have a hard time running aftermarket speakers a lot of folks end up with no bass because of the weak factory head unit can't run them correctly so that's a gamble without an amp off the bat ... I still think you should replace the factory head unit that JL Clean Sweep is 300.00 why not put that in a good head unit? the amp and sub I linked will work , you really don't need a separate thread for that we can help
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'd rather put the speakers in the dash than drill holes in the A pillars for the component setup because I think that it will cost me less since the shop wont have to do any rewiring also it leaves me the option of putting a tweeter in there later or pods if I want to. As for a pillar pods they look sweet but I'm not convinced they are going to be worth the $$$ right now considering my budget. As for the head unit for $300 I could make a aftermarket one do everything the stock one does and more. That said I cant make myself like any of the ones I've seen so far. Next time I go to the shop I'll look at some of the offerings and see if I can't change my mind. That said the clean sweep should fix all the problems with the stock head unit so really I'd be spending the same amount of money either way just one option would look different. Right now I think I'll just put in the two sets of speakers I've linked and see if I have any problems. Those problems will dictate where I spend my money next, amps, cleansweep and amps, amp and sub in the back etc.
 

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remember the aftermarket head-unit you yeild you much better sound quality than using that factory head-unit.. the Clean Sweep will NOT correct the poor SQ of the factory head-unit and as for the door speakers you're still better off with 6x9s than the 6-1/2s...one good 10" sub is all you need one 10" on each side will really run up the cost of the system , say it will cost you 500.00 for sub an encloser you can double that to 1000.00 doing two subs plus you will need a bigger mono amp to run them , thats why i push folks to get ONE good quality sub its all you need in a open SUV and it keeps the cost of the total system down.. A Clarion CZ702 has everthing you need bluetooth etc plus 5 volt preouts and its 119.00( a third of the cost of the Clean Sweep) and would yeild you 100 fold better sound quality than the factory deck with the Clean Sweep ... SOME FACTORY DECKS ARE PRETTY GOOD SQ DECKS IN WHICH THE CLEAN SWEEP WOULD BE A OK OPTION BUT THE TOYOTA FACTORY HEADUNIT IN THE FJ IS NOT ONE OF THEM!

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020CZ702/Clarion-CZ702.html?tp=5684

plus you could run this head-unit with aftermarket speakers for now without having an aftermarket amp,

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Huh, I actually like the look of the Clarion. I'll see if the shop has it but I'm seriously considering it now, so thanks for that I guess.

As for 6X9 vs 6 1/2 there seems to be a general agreement that 6 1/2s sound better when you have a sub and don't want to spend a ton of money.
are 6 1/2 better then 6x9 - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum
Is this correct? if so why are you recommending 6X9s? if not why not?

As for the sub Wicked CAS makes a single enclosure for a 12 as does JL but for a 10 they seem to only have enclosures for 2 10s. Could I just go with a 12 in the future with an amp?
 

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if you were doing components yes the 6-1/2 would be the norm since you're doing full range speakers the 6x9s will give you more output and it's less modding they fit right in since that's what is in there now, I'm not convinced the 6-1/2 sound better than 6x9s at all , either are fine though personal preference , yes one "12 sub will be more than fine ...a good amp is important and quality speakers
 

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I definitely agree with pumping up the budget to do it right the first time. Even if you have to wait a little while, it's worth it.

I also agree with replacing the HU. I don't know why JBL or Toyota would let such garbage out the door. Get a new head unit!!!!!! It really sucks when you spend $1000> on a new system that looks exactly like the old system. If you're getting distortion at 20 now, you'll STILL have distortion at 20 later unless you swap the head.

I am sure the JBL system is better than the FJammer stocker system, but I wouldn't want either without pre-amp outputs.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Alright so I visited the store today and talked to the guy there. He trashed my plan of doing the speakers in the doors and dash, swapping out the head unit and putting in dynamat. He said that if I wanted to improve sound quality and fix the distortion in the base coming out of the door speakers (my goals in the build) I needed to put in a different sub. His logic was that the sub in the JBL system couldn't cope with the base at higher volumes so it was causing distortion the the door speakers. He basically demoed the point by playing some nice 150+ dollar 6.5s, at 19 and hearing distortion, then plugging in a sub and playing them and 11 and hearing no distortion. In my mind the shop is does not make sense. I think that if we swap out the speakers that are being distorted with ones that can handle the signal and build a good surrounding for them with dynamat the problem will go away. I'm curious as to what you guys think. I would also note that he was slightly disrespectful and impatient with me, probably because I didn't really agree with him, am young, and don't have a bunch of money to give him. I think I am going to try to get a second opinion from another shop before I commit to anything.
 

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I'm curious as to what you guys think. I would also note that he was slightly disrespectful and impatient with me, probably because I didn't really agree with him, am young, and don't have a bunch of money to give him. I think I am going to try to get a second opinion from another shop before I commit to anything.
Me thinks you need to find another shop that wants your business.
Sometimes these shops get tired of folks indesicions and think they know the only way to do audio, still your money so do what you want.

I have Alpine HU with JL Audio speakers, sub, and 2 amps. I saved for a while to go this route. Excellent sound.
 
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