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Nice work getting it sorted out. Could you maybe post some links for others who may want to do this( you mentioned TacoTunes ). I'm not looking to upgrade my stereo( yet ), but I'm sure many other members may find great value in the links you post. Nice work!


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Sure thing, sorry for not posting it before
http://tacotunes.com/product-category/toyota-fj-cruiser-component-speakers-subwoofer-amplifier-installation-diy/

With specific pictures on removing door panels here: http://tacotunes.com/toyota-fj-cruiser/how-to-install-speakers-in-fj-cruiser-and-remove-door-panels/

And removing headn unit here: tacotunes.com/toyota-fj-cruiser/remove-stock-stereo-install-new-aftermarket-head-unit-fj-cruiser/

Crutchfield also provides a Master Sheet on these same topics, but there are some gaps, so having some additional references/pictures is not a bad thing.

TacoTunes also seems to offer several several types of adapters, etc for speakers and tweeters that would probably be a step above what Crutchfield provides free (if at all as in the case of dash speakers for an FJ), and that if I was purchasing elsewhere and knowing what I know now, I might order next time.

Also, if you are looking for trim panel removal tools, Harbor Freight has the set for $5 right now. Much cheaper than Crutchfield sells them for: http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html
 

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Quick question-
With the XD500/1 and a 2-way component system. Is there anyway I can add a pair of full-range speakers to the rear suicide doors? If so, how would those hookup?

Thanks!
 

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i wouldn't run components and rear speakers off the XD 500/3 via to low of an ohm load , you could how ever run them off the aftermarket headunit power ..... Myinstaller did this is my Civic system because he thought I needed rear speakers I told him not to worried about it but he did anyway and I never use them lol
 

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Discussion Starter #166
what you wanta bet guys that MaharSperling NEVER bought a aftermarket headunit? so did you MaharSperling ?
Hey ZoSo, if you put money down that I never bought the headunit you would be rich because between college and saving up for a downhill mountain bike I couldn't spend on the car. 2? years later I some money saved up that I'm willing to spend. Planning on keeping my FJ till it dies so I don't mind the investment. I've been re reading the whole thread and I'm ready to do the head unit.

The guy who installed my speakers carries alpine and the iLX 207 seems pretty solid. 4v preouts, capacitive screen, hd radio and SiriusXM. I liked the look of the 107 better and the idea of not having to connect the phone but reading the first review on the 207 convinced me. Barring any objection I'm ready to go with that.

Also want to do amps, sub and speakers in the d pillars. Will do some research and be back with questions.
 

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Hey ZoSo, if you put money down that I never bought the headunit you would be rich because between college and saving up for a downhill mountain bike I couldn't spend on the car. 2? years later I some money saved up that I'm willing to spend. Planning on keeping my FJ till it dies so I don't mind the investment. I've been re reading the whole thread and I'm ready to do the head unit.

The guy who installed my speakers carries alpine and the iLX 207 seems pretty solid. 4v preouts, capacitive screen, hd radio and SiriusXM. I liked the look of the 107 better and the idea of not having to connect the phone but reading the first review on the 207 convinced me. Barring any objection I'm ready to go with that.

Also want to do amps, sub and speakers in the d pillars. Will do some research and be back with questions.
great choice on the headunit ..Alpine is always my first choice in headunits on the speakers since you want a sub you might want to consider a 2 way component speaker setup and a sub with a 3 channel amp like the JL XDv2 500/3 ...rear speakers not needed but if you have to have them 3-1/2 fit back there and you could run them of the headunit ...otherwise keep what you have add a sub like the JL 10" TW3 or JL W3 ...far as amps go you have a couple options their use the Alpine 4 channel power pack up front and a mono amp for the sub or go with a 5 channel amp like the JL XD 700/5 to run everything and the headunit to run the rear speakers
 

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Discussion Starter #168
great choice on the headunit ..Alpine is always my first choice in headunits on the speakers since you want a sub you might want to consider a 2 way component speaker setup and a sub with a 3 channel amp like the JL XDv2 500/3 ...rear speakers not needed but if you have to have them 3-1/2 fit back there and you could run them of the headunit ...otherwise keep what you have add a sub like the JL 10" TW3 or JL W3 ...far as amps go you have a couple options their use the Alpine 4 channel power pack up front and a mono amp for the sub or go with a 5 channel amp like the JL XD 700/5 to run everything and the headunit to run the rear speakers
Glad we are in agreement about the headunit. I talked to the installer and we are set for next thrusday.

Definitely want to do D pillar speakers as I like to put my seat back and listen when I'm parked and the difference between the JBL in the pillars and the JL C2 3.5s I have in the dash is annoyingly noticeable. Was thinking about getting tweeters for the dash and moving the JL 3.5s from the dash to the D pillars.

If that makes sense then the question becomes silk or metal? What are your suggestions? The tweeters in the speakers I already have are all silk and i'm running the mids and highs turned up on the factory headunit. Most songs sound pretty good but in a few the vocals and highs don't come through well or cut through the base.

Amps I'm thinking of the power pack and a mono. Aside from being able to run a 3 channel amp would there be any advantages to a component setup over the 3 way 6x9s and tweeters in the dash that I'm thinking about now?

Both the JL subs look nice but I'm a little unsure about which box. Subthump would probably be easiest and the W3 seems to be ok with the limited space. Still some people on here have been calling them junk. If that is the case I'm not terribly excited about spending $500 on a case form Wicked CAS. I remember seeing a user on here called Golf something who made custom cases. Is he still around?
 

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I have JL Audio C2 0.75" tweeters in the dash, I like them a lot, very clean and clear (I can't stand harsh treble).

You should be able to find an equalizer preset on your Alpine that will work well; I don't have the same head unit as you are getting but the Rock n Roll or Hip Hop settings sound best to my ear on my Alpine (note: I don't have a subwoofer).
 

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Glad we are in agreement about the headunit. I talked to the installer and we are set for next thrusday.

Definitely want to do D pillar speakers as I like to put my seat back and listen when I'm parked and the difference between the JBL in the pillars and the JL C2 3.5s I have in the dash is annoyingly noticeable. Was thinking about getting tweeters for the dash and moving the JL 3.5s from the dash to the D pillars.

yes good idea , tweeter work best in the dash anyway

If that makes sense then the question becomes silk or metal? What are your suggestions? The tweeters in the speakers I already have are all silk and i'm running the mids and highs turned up on the factory headunit. Most songs sound pretty good but in a few the vocals and highs don't come through well or cut through the base.

yes Silk Dome tweeters are the way to fly , a few choices vvvv


https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PS110TW/Alpine-SPS-110TW.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KST2504/Kicker-44KST2504.html

or the JL Audio C2, C3 or C5 soft dome are great


Amps I'm thinking of the power pack and a mono. Aside from being able to run a 3 channel amp would there be any advantages to a component setup over the 3 way 6x9s and tweeters in the dash that I'm thinking about now?

component speakers give you more of a well balanced system with superior sound quality

Both the JL subs look nice but I'm a little unsure about which box. Subthump would probably be easiest and the W3 seems to be ok with the limited space. Still some people on here have been calling them junk. If that is the case I'm not terribly excited about spending $500 on a case form Wicked CAS. I remember seeing a user on here called Golf something who made custom cases. Is he still around?
with the TW3 air space for that is Overall Diameter (A) A1: 11.2 in / 284 mm
A2: 10.5 in / 267 mm
Mounting Hole Diameter (B) 9.625 in / 244 mm
Bolt Hole Circle Diameter (C) 10.5 in / 267 mm
Motor Outer Diameter (D) 5.1 in / 130 mm
Mounting Depth (E) 3.25 in / 83 mm
Driver Displacement 0.019 cu ft / 0.54 L

fairly easy to build...a Stealth Sub Box is another option pricey though

Car Audio - Stealthbox®

Car Audio - Stealthbox® - Toyota - FJ Cruiser

and yes Golf Echo is still around and has built many fiberglass sub enclosures for the W3 etc , you could PM him ...that Sub Thump box not sure on that one my buddy has one and it rattles may be his sub setup not sure ATrend makes a great prefab BOX


https://www.atrendusa.com/10ame-10-single-shallow-sealed-downfire

call and check the airspace though ^^^

thought i saw a Stealth Sub for sale on the forum , you might look in the for sale section
 

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Discussion Starter #171 (Edited)
with the TW3 air space for that is Overall Diameter (A) A1: 11.2 in / 284 mm
A2: 10.5 in / 267 mm
Mounting Hole Diameter (B) 9.625 in / 244 mm
Bolt Hole Circle Diameter (C) 10.5 in / 267 mm
Motor Outer Diameter (D) 5.1 in / 130 mm
Mounting Depth (E) 3.25 in / 83 mm
Driver Displacement 0.019 cu ft / 0.54 L

fairly easy to build...a Stealth Sub Box is another option pricey though

Car Audio - Stealthbox®

Car Audio - Stealthbox® - Toyota - FJ Cruiser

and yes Golf Echo is still around and has built many fiberglass sub enclosures for the W3 etc , you could PM him ...that Sub Thump box not sure on that one my buddy has one and it rattles may be his sub setup not sure ATrend makes a great prefab BOX


https://www.atrendusa.com/10ame-10-single-shallow-sealed-downfire

call and check the airspace though ^^^

thought i saw a Stealth Sub for sale on the forum , you might look in the for sale section
Ok, here is what I'm thinking

JL C2 components in the doors and dash

alpine PDR-F50
I'd rather go with alpine for the amp as the guy carries alpine and gives a discount if you use his parts. Should be enough for the components and if I decide that 250 isn't enough for the sub I can always buy a separate mono amp, unbridge and get speakers for the back seats or use it for the D pillars

I'm getting in touch with Golf Echo and will ask the guy at my shop if he can make a custom box when I take it in for the headeunit.

also, if I understand correctly, bridging the amp means that I will need a 4ohm sub?
 

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Ok, here is what I'm thinking

JL C2 components in the doors and dash

alpine PDR-F50
I'd rather go with alpine for the amp as the guy carries alpine and gives a discount if you use his parts. Should be enough for the components and if I decide that 250 isn't enough for the sub I can always buy a separate mono amp, unbridge and get speakers for the back seats or use it for the D pillars

I'm getting in touch with Golf Echo and will ask the guy at my shop if he can make a custom box when I take it in for the headeunit.

also, if I understand correctly, bridging the amp means that I will need a 4ohm sub?
I'm cool with that Alpine amp , yes you can run it in 3 channel mode , two channels for the front components speakers with the passive crossover and bridging the two rear channel to mono for the sub ...ATTEN : you will need a 2 ohm sub ! NOT a 4 ohm
 

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Discussion Starter #173
I'm cool with that Alpine amp , yes you can run it in 3 channel mode , two channels for the front components speakers with the passive crossover and bridging the two rear channel to mono for the sub ...ATTEN : you will need a 2 ohm sub ! NOT a 4 ohm
Ok, I'll get the headunit in on Thursday, talk to the guy and go from there. Haven't heard from Golf Echo but worst case scenario I'll give the sub thump box a try.

I'm super excited to see how it will sound. Thanks a bunch!
 

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Discussion Starter #175
Got the head unit in yesterday. Listened to it a few times and fiddled with the EQ. Front speakers have improved a good bit. Also traced the remaining rattling in the front to the panel that holds the window switches. Clips were loose so we put the soft side of a Velcro strip in there and its sorted.

Bought a JL TW3, sub thump box and JL XD 500v3 amp off the for sale section here. Scored some C2 components off eBay. Will get the rest of the system installed in early march. Currently it sounds pretty good except when the volume is up and the song has a strong lows. Then the JBL sub has to work hard which kinda sounds like its farting. Super excited to see what the amp, new box, and sub do. If the components make a big difference I will be very pleasantly surprised.

I plan to put rattle trap on the loose plastic near the passenger side wheel well as that noticeably rattles. Aside from there, where should my priorities be?
 

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sound deaden the front doors I’d do 10 to 15 sq ft per door I did 25 sq ft per door .... from their after you get the components sub and amp installed it’s all about TUNING setting up the amp correctly etc , the shop should know the correct setting if they don’t I DO so that’s gotta be right period .... get with me on that when the time comes
 

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Discussion Starter #177
sound deaden the front doors I’d do 10 to 15 sq ft per door I did 25 sq ft per door .... from their after you get the components sub and amp installed it’s all about TUNING setting up the amp correctly etc , the shop should know the correct setting if they don’t I DO so that’s gotta be right period .... get with me on that when the time comes
Front doors are already done. Should I do the rear? Any other spots? I'll be in touch about the tuning.
 

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Sound deadening made a huge difference even with the stock FJammer system in mine. I plan on deadening the whole interior, so far I've only finished doing four out if five doors, I still have the P side half door, roof, floor and firewall. I may also do the front fenders and wheel wells, basically any body panel facing the wind.

Just doing the four doors made a big difference but just in the sound system, but even the cabin feels better when driving. I can't wait until it's all finished.

So the more you deaden, the better off overall you will be. In fact, I would start there before buying any audio gear because it improves everything, which in turn gives you more value for you audio dollar when you finally install the gear.


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Discussion Starter #179
Sound deadening made a huge difference even with the stock FJammer system in mine. I plan on deadening the whole interior, so far I've only finished doing four out if five doors, I still have the P side half door, roof, floor and firewall. I may also do the front fenders and wheel wells, basically any body panel facing the wind.

Just doing the four doors made a big difference but just in the sound system, but even the cabin feels better when driving. I can't wait until it's all finished.

So the more you deaden, the better off overall you will be. In fact, I would start there before buying any audio gear because it improves everything, which in turn gives you more value for you audio dollar when you finally install the gear.


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Got it. Will give the passenger doors a try and go from there
 
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