[FJB301]

Would like to get 6.5" components for the front. My only question is on the tweeter install. I want them on the dash. How do you route the wire to the woofer? Pics would be great or instructions.
Thank you.

 

[AZFJ25]

Depends on if you are using an Amp with the install. If so, you will need to rewire, easy. If using the factory hanress, then you will need to buy adapter for the tweeters. Do a search and it will pop up. I'm doing a complete speaker swap, with Amp and running new wires and keeping factory deck. Good luck!

 

[FJ&TJ_Dude]

You could piggy back the stock wire going to the door speaker and keep the tweeter and crossover under the dash then run the wire to your amp easily through the floor sills

 

[FJ Florida]

Would like to get 6.5" components for the front. My only question is on the tweeter install. I want them on the dash. How do you route the wire to the woofer? Pics would be great or instructions.
Thank you.

In an ideal world, you would run new wiring to replace the factory wiring. It's a fair amount of work, but you only have to do it once. From the amplifier (or in-dash unit) you would run a left pair of wires and a right pair of wires to the left and right crossover modules for the speakers. These crossover modules will need to be mounted somewhere - you should be able to find room in the dashboard somewhere. From each crossover module, you will have a high (tweeter) output and a low (mid/bass) output. Its very easy to fish new wires to the dash locations inside the FJ. Getting the wires fished from the crossovers and into the doors will be more tricky, but ideally you would do it to replace the factory wiring. You could splice into the factory wiring that runs to the doors and use it from the crossover modules to the door locations, but in an ideal world, replace it if you can.

Hope this helps.

Oh, you might want to consider some midrange on the dashboard - putting all your mids on the floor isn't really ideal. Then again, we don't live in an ideal world.

-FJ Florida-

 

[FJ&TJ_Dude]

Just out of curiosity can the human ear pick up the difference in sound quality with the stock max 2 feet of wire and an upgraded speaker and amp coming off the cross over or is it really worth the extra work to run new lower gauge wire to the door speaker?

 

[FJ Florida]

Just out of curiosity can the human ear pick up the difference in sound quality with the stock max 2 feet of wire and an upgraded speaker and amp coming off the cross over or is it really worth the extra work to run new lower gauge wire to the door speaker?

Short answer: some people, not a big difference.

Long, academic answer and experiences: read on.

It's probably closer to four feet from the speaker to where I think I would mount the crossovers. I would say that some people could tell the difference based on the factory wire combined with reuse of the factory connectors, which are pretty bad. When you start messing with things that inject resistance, capacitance, inductance, and noise into a system, which speaker wires can and do, even a small detail like this can cause a result of an unexpected magnitude. The devil is in the details.

The construction and configuration of the wire can make a difference, not just the wire gauge. Cat-5 computer cable is a typical example of how the construction and configuration of a wire can affect its performance, even though it's for computers - just an example that most people are familiar with. In a dead silent audio listening room, I have deliberately shortened very, very heavy speaker wires from 6 feet to 3 feet and noticed a difference. I also once changed from $10 per foot (plus terminators) Monster Cable that was like a garden hose to a homemade braid that I made from 8 solid conductors hung from the ceiling, braided, and heat shrunk. The braided cables I made were awesome - significant enough to keep those homemade braided wires for over a decade. Kimber Cable braid sounds different from straight OFC wire. Silver plated OFC sounds different from solid silver, both of which sound different when insulated with Teflon. Wires that reject noise (shielded or braided) can really make a difference just based on their configuration. Interference picked up by speaker wires can wreak havoc if it gets back into the amplifier's negative feedback circuitry. Seriously high quality amplifiers will not allow this to happen, but lesser amplifiers may. From Kimber:

"They tried to cure the problem by encasing the speaker cable in a steel conduit, and while that helped the noise it also had the unintended result of lowering the fidelity of the audio. This was due to the steel interacting with the magnetic field of the speaker cable."

Read more here: Kimber Kable - About I always have resources, right? :lol:

New wire (I would use braid from start to finish honestly) soldered to the speaker with silver solder and heat shrunk with self-sealing heat shrink would be ideal. We don't live in an ideal world, however. Also, in a harsh automotive environment like the FJ, is it going to be a big difference? No. Absolutely not. You get as close to ideal as you can and then leave well enough alone.

Oh, and when soldering wire to a speaker, it's best to use a wire with alligator clips to ground the speaker terminal to a ground source such as a metal faucet with metal pipes to help protect the speaker against stray currents, and be very careful to solder quickly so not too much heat travels down the wire to the speaker. Trust me on this one because it has cost me $ before.

[/end long academic answer]

-FJ Florida-

 

[DOfj]

The tweeter should be within 18" of whoofer so mounting in the dash would be a stretch. Anyways a good component system comes with a crossover and you would wire the speaker input to crossover and then run new wire to the woofer and tweeter.

The higher end component systems are 3 way setups. [email protected] 6.5, [email protected]+/- & 2 tweeters

 

[FJ Florida]

The tweeter should be within 18" of whoofer so mounting in the dash would be a stretch. Anyways a good component system comes with a crossover and you would wire the speaker input to crossover and then run new wire to the woofer and tweeter.

The higher end component systems are 3 way setups. [email protected] 6.5, [email protected]+/- & 2 tweeters

I thoroughly and whole-heartedly agree, but I would (ideally) like to see less than 12 inches. A door panel mount for the tweeters might be an option, but I would have to go do some measurements and line-of-sight estimations. Three way is ideal I think, to get the mids off the floor.

-FJ Florida-

 

[Briman42487]

I thoroughly and whole-heartedly agree, but I would (ideally) like to see less than 12 inches. A door panel mount for the tweeters might be an option, but I would have to go do some measurements and line-of-sight estimations. Three way is ideal I think, to get the mids off the floor.

-FJ Florida-

best imaging can be achieved with a kick panel setup. the FJ has so many flat surfaces that kill imaging with reflections. interesting enough though, i dont get much cancellation from the many parallel surfaces.

 

[FJ Florida]

best imaging can be achieved with a kick panel setup. the FJ has so many flat surfaces that kill imaging with reflections. interesting enough though, i dont get much cancellation from the many parallel surfaces.

The hard, reflective interior of the FJ makes any installation tricky. I had success with the imaging though. Sometimes you would swear there is a speaker in the center of the dashboard. I think given the speaker locations and the hard reflective surfaces of the FJ, the weapon of choice is to get the midrange and treble off the floor. A little bit of rear fill from 3.5's in the rear pillars didn't hurt either. They image perfectly - too bad they are behind me.

-FJ Florida-

 

[NestahEdition]

I mounted the tweeters in the A-Pillar covers. The crossovers are mounted inside the front door panel.

I'm still using the FJ original/factory speaker wires. I disconnected the roof exciters, front dash and D-pillar speakers. My OEM Navi unit and the JBL amp are driving the front door and rear (seat) panel component (4-ohms) speakers.

 

[FJ Florida]

I mounted the tweeters in the A-Pillar covers. The crossovers are mounted inside the front door panel.

I like the tweeters in the A pillars. Nice job. I'd love to do that combined with a pair of dome midranges in the dash some day when I have the time and money. :rocker:

-FJ Florida-

 

[Babyota_13_885/2500]

I mounted the tweeters in the A-Pillar covers. The crossovers are mounted inside the front door panel.

I'm still using the FJ original/factory speaker wires. I disconnected the roof exciters, front dash and D-pillar speakers. My OEM Navi unit and the JBL amp are driving the front door and rear (seat) panel component (4-ohms) speakers.

Do you have these expired pics of your tweeter install in the a-pillar?