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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ordered an Icon lift and a new upper a-arm. All the parts have arrived and I am eager to get it in. So I contacted the three different people I know who have done a lift before to see if I can get some help as I have never done one. For various reasons none of them are available anytime soon, and I have this burning need.

Screw it! I decided to do it myself. I mean, how hard could it be right?

I figured I would follow the directions from Icon. I jacked it up, dropped it on stands, removed the front wheels and the next step in the Icon instructions says to disconnect the tie rod end. No problem, pull the pin, take the nut off and the end should slide right out... right?.... no. This was me learning that tie-rods are not just a bolt through a bolt hole.

Fearing doing damage I did not try to use a fork. I saw a boot there and could not see a way to ensure the boot was unharmed, so I grabbed a chunk of wood (hard oak), and my motivator (aka the BFH) and decided to push it out from the top where the nut once was. After putting lots of nice holes in my chunk of wood and not moving a the rod end a bit i decided my ignorance is bad for my trucks health. So I put everything back together.

I then did a bunch of searching here and have seen 5 different options to handle the problem I have. They are:
1. Do exactly what I did.. just more. Maybe leave the nut on and loose while doing it.
2. Use a fork and hope the boot survives and the rod is not scored.
3. Use a pitman puller (or some name close to that)
4. Apply constant downforce on the tie rod and smack the side of the housing with a BFH so the shock-wave will loosen the part. (cool idea, sounds scary)
5. Avoid this by disconnecting the lower a-arm instead.

So... which of these is the proper answer and why? Please keep in mind, I have only 7k miles and don't want to damage parts that are not replaced by the icon kit.

Thanks.
 

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Fork it! Be careful! Also, do leave the nut on, use the block of wood, and beat on it with the BFH as well. Basically, I suggest a combination of options 1 & 2. Put some a55 behind it and you'll get it - might not hurt to put some protection on the CV boot (heavy rag(s). Good luck!
 

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Option 1.) Definetly screw the nut back on but to cover the bottom of the threads place a piece of wood and hammer away....dont forget the WD-40 the son of a dog, If that still doesnt work, Option 4.) tap the side of rod where the bolt is inserted into it, tap-it with force, but make sure your tapping the sides.....If that doesnt work Option Z.) put everything back, drive to a installer....wait and have a beer or 2...Goodluck
 

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wish someone would make an instructional video on how to do this!

T
 

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Excellent attitude!

God bless America!:clap:

I'm sure you will enjoy it once it is installed. Nothing like driving a lifted truck.
You sure you live in NC.?
Sounds like you are my neighbor.


Just try not to hurt the rubber, is is a bit of work, but it is just like replacing ball joints. Ya got to hit it out. It should come out with a few good "love taps".
 

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Option 1 and 2 should do the trick well, just keep on hittin' it with a piece of wood and a hammer, also remember to put the nut on loosely. :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No, I'll have to do that was as well when I replace the upper a-arm, but i was talking about the smaller one at the end of the steering arm. I'm new to the names of all these parts, so I apologize if i use the wrong names.

The part I am talking about is the connection from the end of the steering arm to the..... uhh... steering knuckle?. Anyway, its the other spot that has a pin held nut holding on a press fit connection. I am almost certain this is called the tie rod end, but again... I'm new to these names.

So... nobody likes the pitman puller approach? I thought that would end up as the winning approach.

Is this what your talking about? If so, you can see here that I loosened the nut a bit and if you hit here (firmly a few times) it will drop down against the nut.
 

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i installed my own coilovers and UCAs and i don't remember having to remove the tie rod end...i might be mistaken, but i really don't remember removing it. when you take off the old UCAs and the sway bar links, there is plenty of space to worm your coilovers in.
 

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So... nobody likes the pitman puller approach? I thought that would end up as the winning approach.

i did use a pitman/tie rod end puller for the UCA bolt, but apparently striking the flat part of the spindle works just as well.
 

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I then did a bunch of searching here and have seen 5 different options to handle the problem I have. They are:
1. Do exactly what I did.. just more. Maybe leave the nut on and loose while doing it.
2. Use a fork and hope the boot survives and the rod is not scored.
3. Use a pitman puller (or some name close to that)
4. Apply constant downforce on the tie rod and smack the side of the housing with a BFH so the shock-wave will loosen the part. (cool idea, sounds scary)
5. Avoid this by disconnecting the lower a-arm instead.

So... which of these is the proper answer and why? Please keep in mind, I have only 7k miles and don't want to damage parts that are not replaced by the icon kit.

Thanks.
I've installed at least 5 or 6 lifts so far (starting to lose count) and have used several of the methods above but find #5 to be the easiest and no chance of damage to parts.
 

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:ninja:Number 3 for me. Go to any parts store and pick up a tie rod puller. It is cheap and there will be no damage to anything. I am very good with the old BFH, but in this case I used the puller and (maybe I shouldn't say it)I put the impact wrench to the puller, it came right out. BUT I DON"T recommend ANYBODY TO USE A PULLER WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH, ok. just me, on my own garage on my own car.:ninja:
 

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Smack the spindle part next to the tie rod. The spindle is extremely strong, you won't hurt it. I've removed tierods that have been in place 30-40 years this way. With the pickle fork you have a 50/50 chance of ripping the boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Smacking the flat spot with a BFH was the answer I followed and I'm glad I did. Took roughly 90 seconds to pop each joint to remove the upper a-arms., and that included the time to pull the cotter pin, loosen the nut, smack the thing, and then finish removing the nut.

Thanks guys!
 

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I've installed at least 5 or 6 lifts so far (starting to lose count) and have used several of the methods above but find #5 to be the easiest and no chance of damage to parts.
I agree fully on this, but if you have new upper controll arms you kinda have to remove the top anyway. lol
 
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