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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've tried a couple searches for this specific topic, but to no avail.

I recently acquired a 1968 bone stock FJ40, not in 'showroom' condition, but all original, no mods, purrs like a kitten and it doesn't leak one drip. It is my "Garage Queen" - but it does get driven every couple days or so.

So here's my question - after 43 years the lubricants that are being made today have changed quite a bit as compared to the original. I am going to have the differentials & TC drained and changed this week and am wondering if anyone here would have some recommendations or warnings about what type/grade/weight/brand etc to use or to avoid on this age of vehicle.

I have used a local shop, The Toy Doctor, for my FJ Cruiser and an oil change on the 40; the shop is a Toyota certified service facility, but I would like to know some stuff before I just go in and turn it over to them with a blank check.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Jerry:cheers:

P.S. Here's a pic
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75W-90 full-synthetic gear lube in the diffs, transfer case, and transmission. It will make your transmission noticeably quieter. I use Amsoil Severe Gear in mine. The cast-iron F motors still like 20w-50 instead of the newer lower-viscosity oils. Don't forget to add some grease to the Birfields every oil change too.
 

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x2 on gear oil Man that look clean:bigthumb:
 

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Use regular old 75-90 gear oil. Conventional is fine. You currently don't have any leaks - adding synthetic might cause leaks. Your gaskets are probably hard and brittle. These are little mini tractors - you don't need anything fancy.

I've never 'topped off' the grease in my birfs every other oil change. If your axle seals are solid then you are good to go.

20w-50 is fine in an F. I run 10w-30 in my 2F but it is freshly rebuilt. (1976 FJ55 with a 2F from a 1983 FJ60.)

Have fun with your new 40!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the quick responses guys - looks like we have 2 votes for the synthetic, and one specifically against it; looks like I have some research to do.

I might add that I have not, nor do I plan on off-roading this vehicle (hell it doesn't even go out in the rain - which is why it has zero body cancer, that and the fact it was an Arizona Desert Rat for 33 years).

I also have no intention to 'restore' it, it's all there, original paint & glass, all the #'s match, orig upholstery on jump seats and everything works right down to the dome light. Anyway, no restoration - I'm just planning on keeping it running and only upgrading/replacing items as needed.

3 items needing attention: Needs new headliner; need to replace complete air cleaner/breather assembly that was modified by previous owner; need to replace heater & blower assembly removed by Ariz owner.

Collectively your responses have raised a couple questions - "Birfields"? are you referring to the front drive assemblies? And how do I tell if I have an 'F' or '2F' motor? And what's the diff?

Thanks again for all the info, you guys make this forum invaluable. Hopefully some day I can return the favor.

Thanks again, Jerry:cheers:
 

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Feel free to post up pics but if you have a 1968 FJ40 then you have an F motor. You'll have a stamped valve cover, and external oil tube.

You can use synthetic if you want but it is more expensive and these are not high performance machines - they are very very basic.

A new headliner can be purchased as a FJ40 headliner or you can strip out the old and install a new one yourself with the correct adhesive and some decent fabric.

Used parts can be picked up online from a 'well known Land Cruiser website.' :)

Post up on more heavily used Land Cruiser websites and the overwhelming answer will be to stay conventional on 25s, 40s, 45s, 55s, 60s, 62s and 80s transition to some liking synthetic, and then often synthetic on newer motors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I hear ya on the "very very basic" description - if it was any more basic the steering wheel would have been an option! They sure are fun to drive without all the computerized "help".

I kinda feel the same way about using synthetic in this basic motor. When I had the motor oil changed they recommended conventional 20-50, so that's what I got - and I feel that if the conventional gear oil has worked this long, why change? So I guess it's gonna be the conventional 75-90 gear oil all the way around.

Headliner I found at SOR.com

The air intake assembly and heater motor/blower is a different story. Still searching.

Thanks for your input. Here's a few more pics of my GQ.

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

Jerry:cheers:
 

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"Birfields"? are you referring to the front drive assemblies?
"Birfield" is the proper name for the CV joints on the front axle (that Toyota licensed from Birfield) that drive the front wheels. It's your truck; you don't have to do any maintenance on it that you don't feel like I guess, but if you look in the factory service manual it says to add grease to the Birfields every time you grease the rest of the drive train and chassis. There is a square-headed pipe plug on the top of each one specifically for this purpose. The grease in the Birfield is slowly used up every time you turn; the felt wipers smear a little bit of grease on the outside of the ball to keep it lubed and rust-free. Your choice to do this maintenance or not; advice on the internet is worth exactly what you pay for it. I recommend that you buy the factory service manual though. You can find them on ebay, IH8MUD, or you can still buy re-prints brand new from Toyota Materials Distribution.


And how do I tell if I have an 'F' or '2F' motor? And what's the diff?
If your truck is stock like you said, you have an F motor since the 2F didn't come out until 1974. It's possible a previous owner may have dropped in a 2F if the original F needed rebuilding, that's a fairly common upgrade. If your oil filter is on the driver's side of the engine, you have an F. If the oil filter is on the passenger side, in front of the distributor, then you have a 2F. There are other differences but that is the easiest way to tell.

The 2F has a better oiling system and a better valve cover that is easier to seal. Other than that, there is little practical difference. There is nothing wrong with an F or any reason to change it, unless it needed re-building and you could buy a good 2F for less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks 1911 for the info, I've read several of your previous posts on FJ40's, greatly appreciate you sharing your years of knowledge.

I don't know that much technically about vehicles, but I do know that the CV joints on a front or 4WD need to be checked quite often. I appreciate the clarification and location of the plugs. I assume you can use a handheld grease gun for those?

I do have the original owner's manual (kinda like a funny little comic book) but it seems that maybe a service manual might be in order.

As far as oil filter location, there is an updated filter located on the firewall (driver's side) with metal flex tubing that leads to the driver's side of the engine block if I remember correctly. I suspect one of the previous owners was aware of the poor OEM oil filter system & dodged a bullet with this system. And the engine seems strong enough (particularly for it's age); oil pressure is low at a warm idle, but as soon as the rpm's are raised minimally it shoots up to mid range.

Thanks again 100x, Jerry :cheers:
 

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I appreciate the clarification and location of the plugs. I assume you can use a handheld grease gun for those?
Yeah, a standard nozzle fits perfectly inside the hole after you remove the plug. Don't fill the cavity all the way full; about 3/4 full is good enough. Needs some air space for the grease to move around and settle down in where it's needed.


And the engine seems strong enough (particularly for it's age); oil pressure is low at a warm idle, but as soon as the rpm's are raised minimally it shoots up to mid range.
FJ40 oil pressure gauges are notoriously poor, nothing more than an idiot light really. As long as there is any deflection at all you are usually good. I ended up replacing mine with a calibrated Autometer gauge. Didn't change anything but it made me feel better. :)


Thanks again 100x, Jerry :cheers:
No problem, you're welcome Jerry.
 

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Use regular old 75-90 gear oil. Conventional is fine. You currently don't have any leaks - adding synthetic might cause leaks. Your gaskets are probably hard and brittle. These are little mini tractors - you don't need anything fancy.

I've never 'topped off' the grease in my birfs every other oil change. If your axle seals are solid then you are good to go.

20w-50 is fine in an F. I run 10w-30 in my 2F but it is freshly rebuilt. (1976 FJ55 with a 2F from a 1983 FJ60.)

Have fun with your new 40!
X2, I wouldn't use synthetics either. That's a good looking rig with no rust! God bless Arizona! :cheers:
 

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Nice looking 40!

For what it's worth, I use conventional oils all the way around in my 40 and plan to stick with them.
 

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I hear ya on the "very very basic" description - if it was any more basic the steering wheel would have been an option! They sure are fun to drive without all the computerized "help".

I kinda feel the same way about using synthetic in this basic motor. When I had the motor oil changed they recommended conventional 20-50, so that's what I got - and I feel that if the conventional gear oil has worked this long, why change? So I guess it's gonna be the conventional 75-90 gear oil all the way around.

Headliner I found at SOR.com

The air intake assembly and heater motor/blower is a different story. Still searching.

Thanks for your input. Here's a few more pics of my GQ.




Jerry:cheers:
BEAUTIFUL truck!!! Do you have any interior pics?

Congrats!!!

:cheers:
 

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I hope you don't mind me hijacking your post but its been three years so I'm reviving it.

I have a 1974 fj40 which (according to Wikipedia, creditable source, I know) has the F.5 engine. I read it is the F in every way except it has the oiling system of the F2. If thats true should I use oil recommended for the F2? If so, what oil do you recommend for this vehicle.

Any input is appreciated!
 

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You might find more info and get it faster on IH8mud. A lot of the guys with the FJ40 aren't here much anymore and this is mainly the newer FJ Cruiser info where IH8mud is setup for the older Land Cruisers.
 
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