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Discussion Starter #1
Was planning on welding a roof rack to hold a forward facing lightbar and scene lighting all with actuators that raise and hide the lights like what has been done before just my design will be better and use newer quieter motors. My only problem is how I'm going to deliver the power needed. I want the wire to be thick enough to power all of the loads. I want to be sure enough in my work that I could leave it on and know something isn't going to go wrong. Obviously I'll have safety features wired in. My current ideas are Dual A pillar wiring, drilling through roof, or rear battery with some sort of loom to the roof. The idea is to refrain from holes as much as possible. An interesting idea I though was using solar panels and having the acc battery cut completely off from the vehicles factory wiring.
 

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Was planning on welding a roof rack to hold a forward facing lightbar and scene lighting all with actuators that raise and hide the lights like what has been done before just my design will be better and use newer quieter motors. My only problem is how I'm going to deliver the power needed. I want the wire to be thick enough to power all of the loads. I want to be sure enough in my work that I could leave it on and know something isn't going to go wrong. Obviously I'll have safety features wired in. My current ideas are Dual A pillar wiring, drilling through roof, or rear battery with some sort of loom to the roof. The idea is to refrain from holes as much as possible. An interesting idea I though was using solar panels and having the acc battery cut completely off from the vehicles factory wiring.
So I am not quite following your train(s) of thought here but hopefully I can provide you a few simple links to complete your project.

What you're trying to do shouldn't take more than a couple custom length 4 AWG wires from your battery to a Blue Sea Fuse Block, then wiring your accessories from the fuse block.

Boiling down your project it seems like you want to...
1) Wire a lightbar
2) Wire actuators for light bar motor
3) Not drill holes for wiring
4) Safely fuse all of your connections
5) Possibly run a dual battery setup

Links to some solutions:
1) Custom length battery cables to run from OEM battery to Blue Sea Fuse block (positive and negative) = https://www.powertrays.com/collecti...products/battery-cables?variant=3654414958615
2) Blue Sea Fuse Block = https://www.powertrays.com/collecti...-blade-fuse-block-with-cover-and-negative-bus
3) Tray to house your fuse block for clean wiring = https://www.powertrays.com/collections/fj-cruiser
4) Dual Battery System = https://www.offgrid4x4.com/collecti.../5th-gen-4runner-complete-dual-battery-system
5) Run your light bars wires under the A-Pillar for a "no holes drilled" solution (google FJ a-pillar removal for videos)

Honestly if you have a good deep cycle battery you won't need a dual system for what you are doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've seen the A pillar video my only worry is that I'm installing more than one light bar and possibly a few actuators. With the the wires of the light bars and the actuators I'm worried that the A pillar panels will just keep popping their plastic clips off and bulge. I've read on the forums that people have had problems with this. I just wonder if there's any other ways I can get the wires to the roof while keeping it clean. Are you confused about the actuators? I am just planning on having light bars on a pivot that are kept in place below the roof rack with a actuator and maybe gas. When I want to use the lights I can then control the actuator and raise the lightbar above the airdam and other covers. I wonder if I could piggyback on some of the other wiring somewhere? Like the satellite radio I have a diagram I took a picture of at the shop.
 

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As long as your wires fit under the A-Pillar plastic I don't expect them to fly off. Those clips holding down the A-Pillar are very strong and you'll end up breaking a majority of them when removing... common thing so just buy some new ones before you start.

If you are running a bunch of wires from the roof, a good option is to use the Marine grade grommets like the pic below... drilling a hole in your roof is required.

That's cool you want to run actuators for a custom hide-a-way light bar but keeping things simple is the name of the game for me. There are already great light bar bracket options from vendors such as Resz fabrication that have already taken out the guess work = https://reszfab.com/product/fj-cruiser-50-inch-led-light-bar-mounts-brackets-fjc/

Again, it's your rig so get creative and show us the final results!
 

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Although interesting, I'm not sure of the practicality or reliability of using a servo-motor-driven linkage to raise and lower the lightbar, but ....

Before you can design your wiring harness (and where it will be routed), you need to know what gage wiring is required for the length of the run. To determine what gage wire is required, you need to know what your electrical loads are.

So:
1. What is the current draw of your light bar?
2. What is the current draw of your actuator motor(s)?
3. Will the actuator motor(s) and light bar ever need to be powered simultaneously?

One way to simplify the wiring is to run one pair of heavy-gauge wires up to the roof (B+ and ground), and some much smaller gauge control wires. Then, have a small sealed relay box up on the roof that allows you to remotely select power for either the actuator motors or the light bar.

How do you intend to implement linkage limit switches and motor reversing functions?
 

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G'Day,
another simple way to get power to the roof...is using a hollow bolt.. in the rack feet.
Stock bolt is an M8 x 35mm ..so depending wire gauge...you could slip it thru a hollow bolt or two ( on different feet )

Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Although interesting, I'm not sure of the practicality or reliability of using a servo-motor-driven linkage to raise and lower the lightbar, but ....

Before you can design your wiring harness (and where it will be routed), you need to know what gage wiring is required for the length of the run. To determine what gage wire is required, you need to know what your electrical loads are.

So:
1. What is the current draw of your light bar?
2. What is the current draw of your actuator motor(s)?
3. Will the actuator motor(s) and light bar ever need to be powered simultaneously?

One way to simplify the wiring is to run one pair of heavy-gauge wires up to the roof (B+ and ground), and some much smaller gauge control wires. Then, have a small sealed relay box up on the roof that allows you to remotely deliver power to either the actuator motors or the light bar.

How do you intend to implement linkage limit switches and motor reversing functions?
Yup having relays is a good idea. I wouldn't be using servos I would be using linear actuators which already have a preset min and max limit. The linkage will just be a pivot on one corner of the lights and have the actuator on the opposite corner so that when pushed it rotates around its mounted axis. I dont have lights pick out at the moment but ideally the motors would lift the lights then hold and then the lights would kick on both can be manual or I could just have the power out of the relay for the actuators turn off the lights everytime the only annoyance of that would be if I'm adjusting it while it's up because I would lose light during that time. Not sure if i had it all figured out i wouldn't be asking you guys :jester: thanks for the help.
 
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