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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For all those owners who do not have the 115V AC or Sub Woofer option but always wanted a 12V outlet in the rear then this install guide is for you. Diamond Dave did the install awhile back but today I decided to finish the Job and in the process add a step by step install guide. So follow along and I hope this helps out.

Time: >15min

Items:
Aux 12 volt outlet. You can buy them cheap at Walmart, Autozone, Pepboys, Checkers, etc.. or go expensive and buy an OEM Toyota one.

Tools:
Flat head screw driver
Phillips screw driver
Wire tap
1-1/8 drill bit

Step 1: Using a flat head screw driver pry the blank cover off.
Step1.JPG

Step 2: Grab a hold of the top cover and just yank it out. It is not held very tight and there are no screws.
step2.JPG

Step 3: This is the view you will see. Notice the sub wire harness. Locate the white wire with the blue stripe. This wire has a contant 12V supplied to it even with the vehicle off.
step3.JPG

Step 4: Take your wire tap and tap the white with blue stripe wire with the red positive lead wire of your Aux 12 volt outlet.
Step4.JPG

Step 5: Locate the ground screw just inside of where the blank cover was that you removed from step 1. Unscrew and connect the ground wire from the Aux 12 volt outlet.
step5.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Step 6: In the back of the blank cover you will see numbers on the columns. Locate the number "6" column and and the second square from the bottom. This gave me an almost perfect alignment of where to cut the hole. This is much easier than doing it from the front. Be careful and work with real slow RPM. Please note that you will not drill like what is shown in the picture. This is just for reference while I took a picture.
Step6.JPG

step7.JPG

Step 7: Notice the notch on the 12v aux outlet. This is used to keep it from rotating. Mark the location.
Step8.JPG

Step 8: With a flat head screw driver you just want to flick it a bit in that location to give it a small indentation.
Step9.JPG

Step 9: Now push the 12 volt outlet into the hole until it clicks into place.
Step10.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I also have these two items that have come in handy. One hooks directly to the battery with little jumper cables. The other uses the 4 flat trailer connector but it will only supply constant power if you have the parking lights on. This has come in handy when I want to use my laptop outside of the truck or when I take out my ARB Fridge and put it outside during tailgate events. Both were picked up at Walmart.


P1040498.JPG
 

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I just added this this afternoon. Super easy! Thanks!

toby
 

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I have been wanting to do this. Thanks for the write up. I want to add these in the driver's side glove/junk box as well. I saw a write up for that a while back. Thanks again!
 

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In step 6. be sure not to drill through your rear mat and deck (HA HA). A wood block under the cover plate works better. I did this mod months ago for the Engle 45. Also did one for the GPS in the lower dash cover plate near the driver's knee. One more INSIDE the driver's side dash (top) box for the radar detector. This location is also good for many GPS units. No problems with the power cord interfering with closing the cover.
 

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For those of you thinking of adding an inverter to this, be careful, this blue/white cable is rated and fused at max 20Amps. This gives you about 240W total as a 12V supply, but probably max 215W as with a 110V invetrer. It is a good option for small amperage items, but not higher powered items, such as compressors or refrigerators...or blow dryers :rofl:
 

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I would assume this hot wire for the sub is fused on the block So If I overload it it will blow the fuse before i smoke my fj. am I correct?
 

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For those of you thinking of adding an inverter to this, be careful, this blue/white cable is rated and fused at max 20Amps. This gives you about 240W total as a 12V supply, but probably max 215W as with a 110V invetrer. It is a good option for small amperage items, but not higher powered items, such as compressors or refrigerators...or blow dryers :rofl:
The ARB/Engel Fridge only draws 2.7 amps from a 12V source.

I had mine plugged in for 8 straight days using this mod.
 

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Thanks Tenn, I appreciate your help I just was not sure if the factory connection was different that just tapping on the power source for the sub. Or if the factory connection was the same.. very helpful info..:bigthumb:
 

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Excuse my lack of knowldge on this, but does this mod provide the same amount of power as the stock outlet? Is it drawing from the same source? And what about the switch on the center console?
 

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Can't believe this thread reappeared today. I just started the 12v mod for my Weaco fridge and was ready to run wiring all the way up front to tie into power there. Thanks speedy. This just saved, for me, hours of time.

One thing that hopefully is obvious but not stated - the 12v is an "always hot" connection? Need that for the fridge.

1 more thing - I have the inverter with the 110 outlet and I'm assuming that does not alter this mod?
 

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Can't believe this thread reappeared today. I just started the 12v mod for my Weaco fridge and was ready to run wiring all the way up front to tie into power there. Thanks speedy. This just saved, for me, hours of time.

One thing that hopefully is obvious but not stated - the 12v is an "always hot" connection? Need that for the fridge.

1 mor things - I have the inverter with the 110 outlet and I'm assuming that does not alter this mod?
It is always hot, I use it for my ARB fridge all the time and it does not interfere with the 110 inverter.
 

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I just got an ARB fridge. Unfortunately, my '14 Ultimate has no sub or wiring harness where this one is. I do have the AC outlet. Any suggestions? I really prefer to not run all the way to the battery from the back of the vehicle.
 

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I was excited to read about this simple mod but when I looked under the top panel in my 2014 .... nothing! No wires, no connectors, no grounding screws. I have the off road package so maybe not all FJ’s are wired for the sub!
 
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