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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 fj. I’m adding a trans cooler and wanted to know which line coming out of the radiator is the return line to the transmission. I’d like to add the cooler after the radiator.

If anyone has a good diagram or tips , that would be awesome !

I know there’s a few thread that used to have pics but photobucket killed them all.

Thanks
 

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I can’t remember which line mine was but start the engine cold and stall the converter (hold the brake give it some throttle) for a few seconds and one line will be much hotter than the other.
That’s a for sure way to tell which line is from the transmission and which line is from the heat exchanger in the radiator. Obviously I’m sure you know this, but be sure no one is standing in front of the car, don’t be inside your garage and use common sense so the fj doesn’t lunge forward and hit someone or something.

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The upper one is the inlet to the stock trans cooler. Leave that one be. Go from the lower (outlet) one to your new trans cooler, then from your new trans cooler to the steel line that takes it back to the trans. (where the lower hose went to)

When I put my 679 in I was able to use just the hose that came with the kit....its a little tight, and far to the right side, but it worked. I had purchased 10' of hose and it ended up just being too small ID to work for me.
 

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Thanks for all the help guys.

I purchased this cooler . It’s a little pricey but I liked the stock mounts. Figured I’d share if anyone was interested.

https://www.kaon.com.au/store/p30/FJ_Cruiser_Transmission_Cooler_Kit.html


It looks nice how it mounts but my only concern is the info on the page. 2011-2016 fj cruisers? Unless the fj was still made until 2016 in some countries that I’m not aware of. And don’t you have a 2010?


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It looks nice how it mounts but my only concern is the info on the page. 2011-2016 fj cruisers? Unless the fj was still made until 2016 in some countries that I’m not aware of. And don’t you have a 2010?


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The FJC is still sold here in the Philippines and I have a 2016 model, its also sold in the middle east as well. For cooler I went with Hayden 679 but any major make will do from B&M, Tru Cool or Derale. Always the lower pipe, you want the stabilized usually heated oil from radiator to the auxiliary cooler to cool down further before it goes back to the tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I called and talked to them . Probably going to have an absurd phone bill. Anyways 2010-2016 are the same and the cooler will fit with the same brackets.

I got it on sale for 168 with brackets
 

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I called and talked to them . Probably going to have an absurd phone bill. Anyways 2010-2016 are the same and the cooler will fit with the same brackets.

I got it on sale for 168 with brackets
Get yourself a Hayden 679, I managed to fit mine using the brackets included with it, cost me $65 on Amazon.
 

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I got those custom brackets from australia amd used a tru cool trans cooler. The brackets were made for the 07-09 FJ. I hav a 2010 and had to modify them a bit, but its a clean way to do it
Have to relocate the temp sensor, but hes got a perfect oval hole for it to snap into. Its mounted, and ill plumb it prob next weekend.
 

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Here is my Hayden 679 install I routed it after the radiator, that means the lower hose that comes out of the radiator to the transmission now goes to the cooler and then from the cooler to the transmission.
 

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Here is my Hayden 679 install I routed it after the radiator, that means the lower hose that comes out of the radiator to the transmission now goes to the cooler and then from the cooler to the transmission.


Curious what those red things are?


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Thanks for that link Thomkat. I just ordered a set of the brackets for the Tru cool 4454 I have had sitting in the garage. I've been to lazy to fab anything and this is beyond anything I could cobble together. Once they get here I am going to have to figure out what to do about the hood release cable bracket. It looks as though it might cover one of the holes where the bracket bolts to the core support. Not an issue for right hand drive models. I'll come up with something.
 

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Plumbed my tru cool today. Used the aussie brackets. Had to modify them a bit to fit my 2010, specifically drilling another hole for the hood release cable bracket, raising the mounting hoke for the bottom bracket, and cutting out a section to accomodate one of the existing supports.

I used a braided hose sleeve over the 3/8 tubing, and shrink wrap over the ends. Re-used the 2 original clamps, bought new spring clamps (instead of worm drives) for attaching hose to the cooler.

If anyone needs clamps, hose, or the hose sleeve, i have leftovers because i had to buy more than needed. Also have a bunch of the plastic retainers that attach the radiator cover and the two that go on the ends of the front grill. They shatter when you remove them sometimes. (Not free, but cheap, and ive got everything.)

Did a drain and fill today as well. The cooler took about half a quart of new fluid.

Havent driven but a few miles. The grill will stay off for a bit so i can make sure there arent any leaks. Im expecting to see a significant difference in fluid temps and will be monitoring with the scangauge.

20190613_112502_1560465358635.jpg
 

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Plumbed my tru cool today. Used the aussie brackets. Had to modify them a bit to fit my 2010, specifically drilling another hole for the hood release cable bracket, raising the mounting hoke for the bottom bracket, and cutting out a section to accomodate one of the existing supports.
Cgates -

I've been evaluating the Kaon brackets as well for my '14, but aside from the interferences and necessary modifications you mentioned, there's another serious issue that you didn't cover. As far as I can tell the radiator support structure is the same on all 2010+ FJs, so the issue I am seeing should also be present on your truck.

By design, the bottom cooler bracket mounts on the face of the lower radiator support crossmember, and the upper bracket mounts to the upper radiator support crossmember.

However, the face of the upper support is set back 34mm from the face of the lower support. If you simply bolt the cooler to the brackets, and then bolt the cooler/bracket assembly to the radiator supports, something has to bend to accommodate the 34mm setback. If you don't use spacers somewhere to "correct" the 34mm offset, then the cooler will be under tremendous mechanical stress when all the bolts are tightened, and will probably quickly fail at the brazed joints.

Did you notice this during your install, or is your '10 somehow different from my '14?
 

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There is an offset there, however doesnt seem to be under much stress. If this bothered someone, the lower bracket could be cut short, allowing mounting to a different location on that support. Just have to drill some holes, and take the bumper off. Looks like the spacing between the trans cooler and the ac condenser would be unequal in that case, but not much of a concern

Still havent gone many miles, but all seems to be ok thus far with temps but not enough driving to really say something like "this kept my trans temps 50 degrees cooler blah blah blah"

Heres another angle, difficult to see much, but
 

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Discussion Starter #20
anytime !

I took one bolt out of the hood release cable to make room for the other bolt from the cooler . It works fine still .. i moved my horn and temp sensor the the extra hole that was on the bracket on top and it fit perfect.

I drove 700 miles yesterday and my trans temp was 130! for the majority of the way until the mountains and then it got to 168 but never higher ...

A cooler is a MUST have !!!!!
 
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