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There is an offset there, however doesnt seem to be under much stress.
I'm still seeing a 34mm offset on my '14, and you definitely want to avoid stressing the cooler, which is assembled with scores of individual brazed joints between all the stacked plates.

The 2-piece Aussie bracket set is kind of undesirable from a design standpoint, as it allows mounting stresses to be applied to the cooler. Much better would be a design with a one-piece mounting plate, with the cooler bolted to the face of the mounting plate. The one-piece plate becomes a structural member between the upper and lower engine-bay crossmembers, with the cooler just sitting on top of it.

Here are some photos showing how I found the 34mm offset. First, I clamped a hardened steel rod to the face of the lower crossmember, where the lower bracket is attached. This provided a extended reference plane for the lower crossmember.

Then, I bolted the upper bracket to the upper crossmember, and simply measured the gap between back side of the rod and the face of the upper bracket with a digital caliper.

To correct the offset, you can add cylindrical spacers between the brackets and the cooler at either the top or lower bracket, or split the difference and add spacers at both top and bottom.

The first photo shows the overall setup, with the vertical rod and the upper cooler bracket.

The second photo shows the bottom of the vertical rod clamped to the face of the lower crossmember with a 6mm bolt and fender washer.

The last photo shows the offset measurement being made.
 

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The upper one is the inlet to the stock trans cooler. Leave that one be. Go from the lower (outlet) one to your new trans cooler, then from your new trans cooler to the steel line that takes it back to the trans. (where the lower hose went to)

When I put my 679 in I was able to use just the hose that came with the kit....its a little tight, and far to the right side, but it worked. I had purchased 10' of hose and it ended up just being too small ID to work for me.

Did you add additional fluid? If so how? How much?
 

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The upper one is the inlet to the stock trans cooler. Leave that one be. Go from the lower (outlet) one to your new trans cooler, then from your new trans cooler to the steel line that takes it back to the trans. (where the lower hose went to)

When I put my 679 in I was able to use just the hose that came with the kit....its a little tight, and far to the right side, but it worked. I had purchased 10' of hose and it ended up just being too small ID to work for me.

Did you add additional fluid? If so how? How much?
Can’t say for sure. I did a pan drain and fill so I added whatever it took and did the check procedure to set the level
 

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As far as I know I believe they type I have is the only 1 piece type bracket .
Yup, I've got that one too, but it doesn't fit on a '14 with a stock front bumper. One of the upper bumper mounting brackets interferes with the front of the cooler.

Yours fits because you have an aftermarket bumper.

(And what bumper is that?)
 

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Metal Tech Phantom . I am not sure about a 14 seems kinda odd that it would hit on a stock bumper .
 

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Metal Tech Phantom . I am not sure about a 14 seems kinda odd that it would hit on a stock bumper .
I haven't done a meticulous year-by-year, P/N-by-P/N comparison of frames and front bumpers, but '10 - '14 should all be very similar except for the addition of the emissions air pump on the '13 - '14 models, which required very minor changes to some of the bracketry in the engine bay.

Regardless of how the cooler gets mounted, you need to ensure sway space behind it for the AC condenser, which is very flexibly mounted. I also want to ensure that there is at least 1-1/2" of clearance between any portion of the bumper and the cooler so that any minor off-road "oops" involving the bumper doesn't result in a punctured cooler and total loss of all transmission fluid. I don't know of anyone who carries around 3 gallons of extra transmission fluid "just in case".

Also, I'm a little concerned about trapping air in the cooler with the WA bracket design putting both the inlet and outlet fittings at the bottom. I'd love to view the cooler with an infrared thermal-vision system to make sure that fluid was passing through ALL the plates, without any dead zone at the top.
 

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My 2011 has the same offset. So I put the Kaon brackets in my vice and now have a custom set of brackets that reduce the offset to 12mm. I also drilled a hole for the hood latch cable bracket and rolled the metal back on the hood latch support so it's not touching. All of the holes line up perfect and there's no stress on the cooler.
 

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