Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I have a few questions about adjustable rear links. I am purchasing some Toytec 2" "Superflex" coils and wanted just a bit more articualtion out of the rear of my FJC.

I was looking at all of the adjustable rear links and kind of got sticker shock on some of the prices. I am a proficient TIG welder with access to heims and johnny joints and was wondering what would be stopping me from making myself a set of upper/lower and a panhard?

There doesn't seem to be any complicated methods of building a set....outside of the fancy billet pieces some make...lol Is there anything I should be made aware of prior to jumping into making these?

What would be preferable, heim or johnny joints or a combination of both? I know johnny joints have the ability to get a couple degrees more rotation than heims, but would it be overkill?

I figure I could probably make all 5 pieces for under $600.00, which is roughly half the cost of kits from various manufacturers. Need some input before I make the plunge.....

Would there be clearance issues with regards to tire rub? I am going to be running 285's


Sorry for all the questions in advance...please bare with me...

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,495 Posts
Do it! They are pretty straight forward. With that amount of lift you don 't need them to ba adjustable. I made mine adjustable but have them set at the stock length. Here is a pic of what I built. I made mine using a heim joint on one end, and a Summit Machine flex joint on the other. It's simalar to a johnny joint Tire rub isn't a concern :cheers:


P1010589 by cnckart, on Flickr

And an installed pic.

Picture 005 by cnckart, on Flickr
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,781 Posts
IIRC, Johnny joints are stronger than Heim joints.

Johnny Joint®

JJ can be rebuilt, greased, and better for DD applications like an FJ.

JJ on both ends has positives and negatives.
It is the strongest way to build it.
It is so strong that it can tend to wallow out the mounting hole on the frame side due to the thin metal there.

Due to this, most manufacturers for the FJC make one end a JJ and the other end a poly bushing (frame side). The poly bushing allows for some cushion to prevent wallowing out the hole and make the ride a slightly more comfy.

They are pretty simple to make assuming you have the tools and skills and parts.
I would just look at what size DOM tubing other manufacturers are using and go from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
What if I gussett the mounting points? I checked the material thickness on a couple manufacturers and they vary wildly. The thickest I have seen was TC's @ 1.25x.375, which I cannot find anywhere in chromoly. I have seen DOM in that thickness, but it is typically made for thread/tapping without the use of a bung. Some manufacturers use JJ's and DOM....IDK I will have to decide what material and thickness to use....maybe 1.50x.120 with bungs welded in......I like the square tubing in the above pic though....good job:bigthumb:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,781 Posts
If it were me, i would cut off the stock frame mounting points for the lower links and weld in some thicker steel.

BellyDoc and Sean K. are kind of the building guru's on here (at least according to me) when it comes to this stuff.


What if I gussett the mounting points? I checked the material thickness on a couple manufacturers and they vary wildly. The thickest I have seen was TC's @ 1.25x.375, which I cannot find anywhere in chromoly. I have seen DOM in that thickness, but it is typically made for thread/tapping without the use of a bung. Some manufacturers use JJ's and DOM....IDK I will have to decide what material and thickness to use....maybe 1.50x.120 with bungs welded in......I like the square tubing in the above pic though....good job:bigthumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
936 Posts
If it were me, i would cut off the stock frame mounting points for the lower links and weld in some thicker steel.

BellyDoc and Sean K. are kind of the building guru's on here (at least according to me) when it comes to this stuff.
X2 on this post. As for the mounting bracket on the frame it needs to be stouter than what it comes from the factory if you plan on wheeling alot IMO. The bolt on armor is better than nothing but it is still mounted on a fairly thin piece of metal, its kinda like putting a bandage on a broken arm.

After talking, listening and reading(mostly on this forum) about LCA's, armoring, suspension, etc., one of the things I'am having done to my FJ this winter is removing the stock LCA bracket and welding in a set of Ruff Stuff mounts that I bought from Stan @ ToyOutfitters (who can be consider a guru also) and a set of his adjustable LCA's. I may not need the adjustability but since I'am also replacing the mounts it might be a good thing to have it. One thing that I can say about these parts is they are stout, if I was to bend/ break either I probable will have bigger issue to deal with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,495 Posts
The thin mounting point is definately a concern. I have added Diggers link armor and have it welded in place. I didn't remove the factory mounts, but that will most likely happen this spring. I would also use a bushing in place of the heim if I were doing these again. You can feel and hear almost every bump once you lose all of the rubber. If mine wasn't a daily driver I probably wouldn't mind so much. They do flex a lot more than the stock stuff.:lol::cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,162 Posts
The Johnny Joints as well as the urethane joints are replaceable. Heim joints generally are not. The other plus of the Ruff stuff mount is that it allows for a 2 5/8" mounting width rather than the 2 3/8" size of the OEM mounts. Most joints you find are available in the 2 5/8" size.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top