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I was wondering what the best and cleanest tool to adjust my donahoe coilovers with? Thanks in advanced.

You should have received the proper tool with your Donahoes unless you bought them second hand?

Check with Icon about getting the tool or you can buy one from Kartek.

ICON VEHICLE DYNAMICS Suspension Systems, Shocks and Lift Kits
Kartek Off Road - Where the Off-Road is On!

You can just make one by cutting the end off of a 3/8" phillips screwdriver. I'm not positive about the ID, measure the hole on the adjusting rings first.

Good luck.
 

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I was wondering what the best and cleanest tool to adjust my donahoe coilovers with? Thanks in advanced.
You should use a spanner wrench. They are available on-line from McMaster-Carr, and other tool sellers as well...
 

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Also to make adjusting the COs easier you can use a long piece of tube to attatch to the spanner wrench to use as a cheater bar. You can use something like a Hi-lift jack handle.:bigthumb:
 

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Get the spanner wrench from wheelers offroad. It won't break like some of the crappy ones. Then stick a bent tube over the end unless you are the incredible hulk. Just apply nice even pressure and DON'T get more than 2 inches of thread above the collar.





 

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I spoke to a guy at Icon yesterday and he said the easiest way to adjust them was to use a screw driver (cut off as stated above) or similar with a cheeter bar.
 

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I used a spanner wrench, I jacked the vehicle up first then it was easy to do. I didn't need any extra "bars" to adjust them. Maybe I was just lucky.
 

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I use a punch and a bar, make sure you jack the front up and take the "Load" off the suspension before turning the adjusting ring. Take a mesurement at stock before the suspension then you'lll have a base line to work from. Did you go with aftermarket UCA's too, if not, don't go any higher then 2" of lift. If your running aftermarket UCA's then you can go to 3"...I hope this helps:)

DR use to send a spanner wrench with the suspensions, not any more.
 

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Hey, I know you know where I live as I sold you your spare tire :)
PM me and I will let you know when you can come over and I will crank them up for you. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you guys for all the help. I kinda had an idea of how to do it but you all have cleared that up for me. I have TC UCA's so im thinking i might give it a pinch above a level stance and i might just have to take mudd up on his offer.
 

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You should use a spanner wrench. They are available on-line from McMaster-Carr, and other tool sellers as well...
I may be misunderstanding the terminology but a curved "spanner" wrench works, but just o.k. You aren't able to turn the ring near as far each turn as you are using a straight bar. The original Donahoe Tool I received was a combo spanner (the curved part) and straight bar. I always used the straight bar side of the tool, it is much more effective. I thought a spanner wrench was a double headed adjustable tool able to span the gap between two holes?

FYI-

I'm sure you know this but there is a set screw on the ring that should be loosened before making any adjustments. A little oil also makes everything go smoother.

DON'T get more than 2 inches of thread above the collar.
I have mine set at 2.60". I don't know of any reason you cannot go above 2" above the ring. The ride will be stiff but it depends on how your front end is weighted. Dylan at Icon (one of the principals and an engineer has inspected the front end travel on my rig and given me the green light.
 

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I may be misunderstanding the terminology but a curved "spanner" wrench works, but just o.k. You aren't able to turn the ring near as far each turn as you are using a straight bar. The original Donahoe Tool I received was a combo spanner (the curved part) and straight bar. I always used the straight bar side of the tool, it is much more effective. I thought a spanner wrench was a double headed adjustable tool able to span the gap between two holes?

FYI-

I'm sure you know this but there is a set screw on the ring that should be loosened before making any adjustments. A little oil also makes everything go smoother.



I have mine set at 2.60". I don't know of any reason you cannot go above 2" above the ring. The ride will be stiff but it depends on how your front end is weighted. Dylan at Icon (one of the principals and an engineer has inspected the front end travel on my rig and given me the green light.
Agreed with the tool. I use a 18" type of pry bar with a 1/2" tapered end to adjust my ICONs. It only takes me about 15 min to adjust them up. that is including the time it takes to jack up each side and adjust.

I also have my C/O cranked upo at about 2.25"-2.30" of exposed threads and have been fine. It does ride a bit firmer, but it is nicer on the street when coming around corners and gives me just a bit more ground clearance
 
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