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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the castle nut on my knuckle by the UCA disintegrated as I was removing it. Is there a special socket that could remove it? I’m basically stock in my driveway so it has to be a driveway solution. Thanks!
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Plenty of penetrating oil over several day. Try Gearwrench Bolt Biter extraction sockets. They work well.
 
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If you are taking it apart to replace the ball joint, then that means both the nut and stud are expendable: angle grinder with a cutter wheel to zip them both off flush with the control arm, and then the ball joint will come right off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you are taking it apart to replace the ball joint, then that means both the nut and stud are expendable: angle grinder with a cutter wheel to zip them both off flush with the control arm, and then the ball joint will come right off.
I’m replacing the UCA and the shock plus coil. I’d like to save the knuckle. Angle grinder is an interesting idea. Could that cut through the nut? Wow. I’ll try it as my last resort. Very likely it will come to that. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Should I remove my shock when I'm using the angle grinder - or just cover the shock with piece of wet thick cloth? Leaning towards the thick wet towel because of the time + effort to remove that again.
 

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I had the same thing happen to my knuckle. I hammered a size smaller socket onto the castle and impacted it off. Lost a $5 socket as opposed to a $400 knuckle. Fire also helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bolt extraction sockets didn't work. Issue is that there none of the "castle" left on the bolt. It's now just the base of the bolt. Angle grinding looks like my only hope. Even if I did hammer on a smaller socket, there's nothing but a smooth surface there.
 

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Just cut it off. Save yourself the stress. And why bother covering a shock if you are replacing it? Have a small hand sledge to pop the ball joint loose once you cut it off. Bonk the side of the knuckle a few times and it will pop out. Support the lower CA so it all just doesn't drop out tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you are taking it apart to replace the ball joint, then that means both the nut and stud are expendable: angle grinder with a cutter wheel to zip them both off flush with the control arm, and then the ball joint will come right off.
Thanks for pointing me in that direction. Used the angle grinder to cut off the entire bolt end with the nut. Had to bang the crap out of it to get to drop, but it's good now.
 

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The 'correct' way to deal with a damaged, un-wrenchable, or seized nut with zero risk of damage to the male threaded member (including no heat exposure) is with a tool specifically designed for that purpose, a nut splitter.

Available in many different styles and sizes.

In a pinch, a 1" cold chisel will also work, using it to bite into the remaining flange on the castle nut and driving it CCW to try to get the remains of the nut to 'unscrew' from the ball joint stud.

If you cut the stud off with an angle grinder, you may have difficulty knocking out the tapered part of the stud that will be left in the knuckle.

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