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Discussion Starter #1
Airdam wiring with Remote through the Rack. UPDATED 3-14

I have read lots of threads about to drill or not to drill through the roof and pillar, installs etc. I have decided to try a different route and would like some input on it before I get started this weekend.

1. I plan on running 1/0 gauge to the rear of my FJ into a fused distribution block because I plan on adding a power inverter, future amp and have a 2" portable winch that will need power if I get stuck.

2. I want to run 8" gauge from the four HID lights through the front upper rack and out the back. Then run it down the slot in the back hatch and then drill a hole into the area where the Jack is located. I will put the wire in plastic slit sheath for protection. I will also grommet the whole and seal it once the wire is put into the distribution block. It will have a separate fuse for the lights maybe a 20amp off the distribution block.

3. Then I want to hook up a separate fused off distribution block remote switch block and have the remotes located up front somewhere I can reach easily with no wires or holes to drill.

4. The Ground for the HID is a question I can run two 8 gauge wires very easily and will have a ground Block for the 1/0.

Do you think one of the roof rack bolts could act as a ground location with 8 gauge it seems ideal since its all right there?

5. Here are some pictures to give you an idea of my above thoughts. The block will go where the tool bag is located on top of a piece of dyno mat.

You will not offend me if you think this is stupid I'm just looking for extra ideas tips or safety. Thank you.
:cheers:











 

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That's a long wire run, but I don't see why it would be a problem if using the correct guage. I can tell you that you will not want to ground to the roof rack though. Post up pics when she's all done! :cheers:
 

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I just wired my second set of 520's and ran the wires down the front a pillar on the passenger side. Looks like garbage and the exterior panel that goes on the pillar doesn't seat all the way now.

I also ran my duallys yesterday and ran them down into the jack area by poking a small hole in that rubber piece you posted last pic. Then I ran the wiring behind the panels and under the door sill.
Wish I had ran my front lights like that to begin with.
 

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I have an All-Pro Airdam with 2 Piaa lights upfront. Drilled a hole under the left front rack foot to run the wire. Easy and no leaks. You way sounds good, but thats a lot of wire. Let us know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Anyone with the HID 4" know the power draw? I'm assuming its low because most HID systems draw less than OEM lights. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The reason I ask is I have some 10 Gauge speaker wire that is heavy insulated and has two wires in one sheath. The run should be close to 15 feet what do you think? Four 35 watt lights I have enough wire to run it twice so two lights per 15 foot run? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why such heavy gauge wire running to the lights?
I'm a safety freak just want to do it right. So I'm taking by your comment 10 gauge is over kill? That makes me happy I want to go heavier do to the length of the run:cheers:
 

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I would say so. I have 14 gauge on all my lights and have never had a problem. Lights don't draw a huge amount of power, but I guess it's cheap insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Started the wiring today one screw up with drilling the wrong tube could have kicked myself but I will fix it tomorrow with JB weld and paint:( So far the project is going good just waiting for the 0 gauge wire to show up for the distribution block Via mail the rest is done other than some touch up stuff. Here are some pics.

If anyone wants another pic just ask it's relatively easy to do I'll get the rest in here when my power wire comes in tuesday or wednesday. Be Good.



I ran power wires under the lights so you can't see them at all and added a fuse per pair of lights in the airdam for extra safety.








Here You can see the Hole I miss drilled :( Still kicking myself I will probably seal it with JB weld paint and move the cross bar back to cover it.



 
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