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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Maybe I could tell a story of my FJ Cruiser build too.

So, let´s start. I bought my FJ year ago from Germany. It was imported from US in 2006. Manual transmission and Upgrade package 1. About 45 tml in the clock.

First mod, TRD shift knob:

I changed the speedometer to Canada version with km/h scale (part.no 83800-35G70):

Then inside out:

Sound insulation to the roof:

...and floor and everywhere else too:

New 8" speakers (Rainbow SLX 220.20 X-Plain) to the front doors (I made spacers of 22 mm MDF):

Amplifier (Ampire MX-4):

And it´s mounting points (I welded studs for it to the floor):

New radio (JVC KW-AVX840), first mounting with stock brackets. Not good, too much out, tilt would raise the lower edge. (sorry very bad celly pics):

Then with modified brackets, much better:

Next step, CNG conversion. First I installed nozzles to the intake manifold:


Injectors:

Lovato Easy Fast CNG parts installed, the ECU is inside (programmable by laptop). TRD CAI is installed too (stock will not fit any more):

Gas bottle holder, made of stainless steel. The charcoal canister is moved back:


There it is:

The CNG filling valve:

Finnish regulations demand side signal lights, so I installed them to the same spot as they are installed in Aussie/Japan FJs, same lights too (part no. 81730-20192):

I made BMC too for the tires which I ordered:

I painted the frame and axles with POR15 and sprayed rust protection wax everywhere.
I got the long waited goods from USA (includes 5 tires/wheels, RC 6" lift kit, LR UCAs, ARB compressor, Magnaflow muffler and some other smaller stuff):

But the most important thing first, I got the car registered in Finland:
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Re: CNG äFJii buildup

Now it is under construction again, I modified the RC 6" lift kit to lift only 3". Why? Because I want the true 3" lift (and the 3" suspension lift is maximum allowed in Finland), real space for bigger tires, the steering rods are ligned and CV angles are almost the same than stock. The RC 6" kit´s crossmembers lower the lower A-arm´s mounting points 3", I shortened the strut spacers to the same 3" (77 mm).

I didn´t liked the front differential mounting style, so I modified it:

Test fitting:


I also had to modify the sway bar brackets, they pushed the sway bar too much forward:

The front suspension includes Light Racing UCA´s too.

Next bigger modification is rear air spring suspension. I bought a pair of OEM Land Cruiser 120/Lexus GX470 rear air springs, part no: 48080-35011 and 48090-35011.
Because FJ shares the frame with 120-serie, there are mounting points already for air springs at rear. So these fit directly to the frame without modifications. The spring plates on the axle are different of course, but there is 10 mm hole in the middle of the plate, so I just bolted spacers on them.

I have planned simple system which consist of ARB CKMA12 compressor, up-down electric-pneumatic valve on the dash + three ARB solenoid valves, so that I can connect the bags also together (for off-road use).

I bought the cheapest oem air line (diam. 3/16") because I wanted the oem style connection and cut it half (both ends are identical, Toyota specific ends), so I got the proper start for the air line. The rest is ARB 5 mm air line to the solenoids inside the car. This is how they look.

My friend turned 2" spacers for them, which I bolted to the oem spring plate:


Center console (pressure meter + swiches for the solenoid valves)

ARB solenoid valves (breathers are blocked) and I add extra cigaret lighter plug too. I did A-Trac hack too at the same time when connect the wirings from fuse box. I used add-a-circuit-fuse type connector.

Homemade bracket for Webasto and place/mounting holes for compressor plate´s other side.

There they are (Webasto Evo 5 -auxliary heater and ARB CKMA12 -compressor) + the gas regulator is there too. Just enough space, very tight fit because of the TRD cold air intake box.
I cannot dream about the 2nd battery. :(

I made some parts for the rear suspension:

Drop/relocation brackets for the rear shocks:

Drop brackets + brackets for the rear bump stops installed. Those universal bump stops are a little higher than stock. Shocks are Bilstein 5100, fully extended in the picture.

And some testing. Lowest, highest and normal driving position:

I also noticed that the front Bilsteins are 1" longer than the stock ones, which give about 40 mm (1 5/8") more downtravel. Left: Bilstein 5100, right: stock shock.

Now I have as much downtravel than with RC 6" spacers + much more uptravel than with that un-modified kit. :clap:

CV angle (exactly same than with RC 6" spacers and stock shocks):

Before and after the lift and tires (old ones were 33x12.50R17, now 315/70R17):

There is some flex at rear (as much as with 6" lift springs):


I have liked the ride very much, it´s smooth and stable, very comfortable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Re: CNG äFJii buildup

Some updating since last autumn:

I bought a Sheriff skid plate (made of 3 mm steel for Land Cruiser 120 series) and bent it a little + fabricated a mounting plate for getting it mounted to the RC crossmember:

And I fabricated a guard plate for the CNG tank too (made of 2 mm Stainless Steel):

I wanted to get as much as possible light of my stock headlights. I changed the bulbs to GE Megalight Ultra H4 +120, but the change is just noticeable, maybe 20%, not 120%.
Then I found my old Light Booster set for H7+H7 lights, which I was used before in my wife´s ex-Toyota Avensis with good results, which I modified to fit to H4-bulb socket by using these (ceramic H4-sockets from ebay).

The modified booster:

Installed at driver´s side:

The light booster is a hacker power supply which gives 14,65V in spite of what is the battery voltage. Normally it gave 13,6V (right side) to 13,7V (left side) to the bulb when engine is running, now 1V more and this is what your eyes can really notice. The DRLs are connected of, they would work with a full voltage after this.

And the result, low beam:

The next mod was speedometer which shows too little. The solution I was used before too, is Jaycar MKII Speedo Corrector. This was a DIY kit, I had to solder it by myself (took about hour).

PHP:
The installation:
-pull the box out (it is quite tight, start from the edge closest the windscreen)
-remove the plug of the speedometer (left side plug)
-find the speed sensor signal wire (it´s red/yellow in M/T, gray/red in A/T)
-cut it, put some shrink tubing to the both ends
-solder the input out wire of the box to the plug side of the cutted wire
-solder the input in wire of the box to the other side of the cutted wire
-heat the shrink tubings
-peel off a little insulation of the +12V ignition wire (red-blue)
-solder the +12V wire of the box to it
-peel off a little insulation of the earth wire (white-black)
-solder the earth wire of the box to it
-tape the both solders
-follow the instructions for the calibration (jumpers setted to LK2 and LK3 works)
And it works perfectly. Now I can adjust it just how I want to. And the ScanGaugeII get the right signal too, before I had +10% in it, now I had to change it back to 0%.


The box fit nicely behind the speedometer.

I have had the Magnaflow 12586 muffler waiting for installation almost a year, so now was time for it. Nice and quiet sound, not much difference in stock muffler.
Stock vs. Magnaflow:

And welded together. I made the mounting rods of 10 mm stainless steel rod and the flange is made of stainless steel too:


Then I installed German made Nolden LED black optic DRL-leds:

They fit nicely behind the bumper grill:

The DRLs are very bright when on (bulbs are 2.5W Philips Rebel DS56), and almost unnoticeable when off (the picture can´t tell you right about the light brightness):

Hella Comet 200 Xenon -highbeams are installed too:

The audio system is got some improvement too. I made a subwoofer box of MDF (still a little under progress), the 10" element is Pioneer TS-SW2501S4:

I was a little concerned about the valves because of CNG (which not lubricate the valves at all and the heat of combustion is higher), one aussie guy told about a LPG conversion installation this way:
DONT FU***NG DO IT!!!!!!!!!!
I have done many heads on 1grfe motors that have gas fitted to them, they are a **** to do as well because the motor has to come out.
It seems that the valves in them are no good for gas.
So, I ordered V-Lube Electronic Valve Saver Kit. It feeds blue fluid to the manifold about 200 ml/1000 miles and should protect the valves.
I welded an extra bracket to the power steering bottle holder for the V-Lube bottle:

I changed the plugs to Denso IKH22 -iridium plugs, which have smaller gap (0.8 mm instead of stock 1.1 mm) which is better for CNG use.

And here is a current look (auxiliary lights missing) at spring 2013:


Next mod at Nov/2013 was Recaro Ergomed ES SAB -seats, which I found from eBay.de. Leather and alcantara, full electric, airbag, heater, ventilation, everything but no massage, I love them:

First thing was to separate original seats from their frame. There was quite a lot electronic parts under the passenger seat. I cut the airbag wire, because I didn't manage to find adapter between the Toyota plug and Recaro (VW/Audi) plug, and solder them later to the VW/Audi plug´s wires.

Then I had to fabricate some adapters between Recaro mounting and oem seat frame. I used 60x30x3 mm L-profile steel and 2x5 mm thick 25 mm washers for M8 bolt as spacer, because the bolt pattern was exactly same width than oem seat frame. Bolts are 10.9 grade.

Few hours later:

And for a final touch, Recaro-stickers from eBay:

Because the passenger weight sensors do not exists any more, I ordered this thing from Metaltech 4x4:

Picture from underneath:

This is how they look installed. Airbags works fine, they have the exactly same resistance (2.3Ω) than in the oem seat airbags.
Love these seats!


I ordered Clazzio seat cover for the rear seat only, it match very well to the front seat:



Build-up story with pictures continues here: ----->>
*click*http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/member-build-ups/153551-airsprung-cng-fjii-6.html#post5702426*click*
 

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Re: CNG äFJii buildup

Nice!! I really want to do the sound proofing sometime soon but the list is never ending :lol:
 

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Re: CNG äFJii buildup

wow... seems like you're on your way to a very nice build! keep it up!
 

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Re: CNG äFJii buildup

Wow some impressive moding you've done there!
Keep up the good work and thanks for posting all the great pics..:)
 

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Nice mods and fab skills.

Are you worried about cutting those cargo area supports?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice mods and fab skills.

Are you worried about cutting those cargo area supports?
Thanks. No, I´m not worried, there is 2 left and the floor panel is grooved too. It´s definitely strong enough for my cargo and it´s not weakening the body stiffness too, it´s so small spot.
 

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Nice mods! :bigthumb:
 

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Question, why buy the rc 6" and shorten it to 3? Seems counterproductive to throw a drop bracket under a 3" lift...I mean I understand the CV angles and such, but a coilover lift doesn't really do any harm to the CV's despite the increased angle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Question, why buy the rc 6" and shorten it to 3? Seems counterproductive to throw a drop bracket under a 3" lift...I mean I understand the CV angles and such, but a coilover lift doesn't really do any harm to the CV's despite the increased angle.
The suspension works better if A-arms are not angled so much, spindles are stronger than originals and tie rods are also aligned more vertical = better for the steering rack bushes. You have to limit uptravel with 3" coil(over) lift, if you want real space for 35" tire movement, no I have extended travel compared to stock. I think those are good reasons enough for modify 6" lift for lifting just 3". Furthermore I am installing Bilstein 5100 shocks and set them to 2nd or 3rd notch. So overall lift will be over 3" at front, but is not so obvious. I think I will modify (or make new flat type) the upper spring plates, to get more downtravel and less preload for the springs.
 

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Very impressive mods- the fabrication is intense! You go big!

But I have one question....Now that you have gone CNG, do you still have the drivers side lean? :lol:
Just kidding

I listen to a band from your country called Finntroll. I call it Death-polka:lol:

Keep up the great work!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
But I have one question....Now that you have gone CNG, do you still have the drivers side lean? :lol:
Just kidding

I listen to a band from your country called Finntroll. I call it Death-polka:lol:
Yes, it is still lean. Let´s see if the air spring could get it levelled (a little more pressure to the left bag).

Finntroll... funny that I have never heard of the band. Maybe too much underground music. :rocker: Personally I like much more lighter music.
 

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The suspension works better if A-arms are not angled so much, spindles are stronger than originals and tie rods are also aligned more vertical = better for the steering rack bushes.

Can you elaborate on why the "suspension works better if the A-arms are not angled so much"? Are you refering to the angular relation of the arms when looking from a front view (i.e. the angle between the upper and lower and connection at the spindle). Or are your refering to the angles from a side view (relation of the front a-arm mounts to the rear a-arm mount of each arm)?
 

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Great Job! Been away for some long term travel, so I was quite surprised to see how far your FJ has come now that I am back. Looks well thought out! I made many tweaks to my Rough Country lift, so I especially appreciate all you have done to yours.

Shawn
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, it is still lean. Let´s see if the air spring could get it levelled (a little more pressure to the left bag).
This is not working, the right airspring can be almost un-pressured until it is levelled. Maybe I just move the snap ring at the front left shock one step higher... what you think? It leans now about 1" left, just like before mods.

P.S. Pictures added to the 2nd post.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Maybe I just move the snap ring at the front left shock one step higher... what you think? It leans now about 1" left, just like before mods.
I set the left side on 3rd notch and right on 2nd. Now it is perfectly levelled.

P.S. Pictures added to the 2nd post.
 
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