Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

21 - 40 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Your post was a great help in changing out my alternator. I had a whine up front but no problems with electrical, but was able to identify the whine coming from the alternator. This is what I learned from the experience:
1) I should have purchased a Denso alternator from rockauto.com. I bought from a local dealership thinking I was getting a new alternator $258 +$60 core (refundable). Ended up being a remanufactured Toyota sticker from Denso. Oh well, I also wanted it same day.
2) I should have purchased a Bando serpentine belt on Amazon Prime for $22. Same thinking as above, thinking I was getting a new Toyota belt, which it was a Toyota cardboard band, but it did have Bando printed on it. At least I went with another posting recommendation and ordered the Tacoma '07 belt (90916-A2001), $31, so it was cheaper then the FJ belt.
3) I ordered a pulley, didn't need it, it came with the alternator. I ordered mounting bolts, not needed, not in stock in any dealerships around town.
4) I should have pulled the battery out from the beginning, once I finally did it helped a lot with working room.
5) I should have listened to my late father's voice in my head saying "don't force it!". I snapped of a few bolts while installing the skid plate back on. Oh, I also broke the extractor pin when trying to extract a broken bolt. At least I didn't slip the drill bit up through the bottom of the radiator, I had some foresight to guard against that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Anybody got tips or steps like this for getting the alternator off when you have a TRD Supercharger? Not sure how to get to the 14mm bolt to loosen the tensioner/belt because the supercharger belt and bracket is in the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hi, Im having trouble trying to get the bottom (2nd bolt) off the alternator to replace it with a new one. Ive applied DW-40 and it did not budge. sort of worried of stripping the screw head. Any ideas on how to remove it? the top screw was much easier to remove, wondering if it will come off the same as the rotation of the top screw (lefty loose) using my breaker bar. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hi, Im having trouble trying to get the bottom (2nd bolt) off the alternator to replace it with a new one. Ive applied DW-40 and it did not budge. sort of worried of stripping the screw head. Any ideas on how to remove it? the top screw was much easier to remove, wondering if it will come off the same as the rotation of the top screw (lefty loose) using my breaker bar. Thanks.

UPDATE:
So what I ended up doing was placing a piece of duck tape, yes, duck tape over the bottom screw because my 6 point 14 mm socket was not a precise fit (I'm guessing it got like this after so many tries). The tape made it snug (perfect fit) and with a little effort I was able to take it off without damaging the bolt. Hope this helps.

:clap:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Nice one. I was having the same issue. Using the breaker bar from below (after removing the front skid plate) gave me enough leverage to safely loosen this tough bolt. Put everything back with anti-seize on the threads. My alternator (not the brushes) was bad at 109000 miles.


GB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Any torque specs on these bolts
Specifically the 14mm ones that hold the alt on?

By the way thanks to he OP! If you're ever in Vancouver let me know and I'll buy you a beer. :)
Also re: the pull up? Pull up and towards the left front fender. Required wiggling.
Lastly the tensioner pulley... Gotta use that to get the belt off.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Hadn't driven the 07 FJ in about 2 weeks and a little sluggish to start. Drove it for the day then thought best to trickle-charge the battery overnight. Measured the voltage at 13.8 volts. Seems a little low based on what I've read here. What do y'all think; should be closer to 14 to 14.1-ish?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,539 Posts
Pumbaa, I thanked bandi for his write-up and thought I should thank you too for yours ... very helpful ... my original went suddenly this week after about 109k miles ... replaced it with a Toyota re-man (new no longer available according to the stealership ... am going to pull the original apart ... hopefully its only brushes and will keep it as a backup ...
:cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Just wanted to say thanks, I just replace my alternator, idler pulleys and belt yesterday and your instructions were great. I used the REMY 12453 130 amp and both the mechanical alternator whine coming from under the hood and the electrical whine coming from the head unit disappeared. Also the base on the head unit seems to be much better as well.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Got into some deep mud over the weekend and my alternator immediately quit charging. I was going to replace the alternator when I found this thread. When I checked the brushes they were stuck fully compressed. Got them freed up and clean and it started charging again. Thanks for the great write-up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Those were great instructions -- thanks!

Alas, I ordered a Denso 612 from Amazon, installed it, and it fails to maintain voltage on a charged battery below 1500RPM. Crap. Sending back. Ordered one from Rock Auto. I'll get fast at this alternator swap thing.

I tried to rationalize buying the Taco version with 130A, but until my factory original one failed I've never had an issue so I figured, "why invite drama?"

The one thing that took some learning was a system for getting the serpentine belt back on. My end method was to put it on everything except the idler adjacent the alternator (put belt on top), and then work it over the bottom while pulling up on the tension pulley. There might be better options, but that seemed to work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey just want to say thanks for the post, very helpful. Also wanted to let everyone know that I just got a quote from the dealership in Yakima, WA to replace this for $686 (before taxes). If you have the time, save the $ and do it yourself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
For those of here coming from Google, there was an update to the way the alternator was mounted at some point in the FJ Cruiser's production run.

My SO has a 2011 that just had the alternator die on it. My hubris said "I can take care of that, it'll be easy", and as is usually the case when your hubris speaks before being informed, I've run up on a problem that's not obvious to me how to fix with the tools I have available.

I've circled the bracket that apparently attaches to the bottom rear ear of the alternator in the photo attached. It's immediately above the AC compressor, which is the gray rectangle perpendicular to the bolt head.

I'm at a loss as to how to actually get to it to remove it currently, but I haven't lifted the vehicle and pulled off the skid plate yet. Even doing that, it looks like it'll be difficult to get to. If the AC compressor can be removed and moved aside, that may be the solution. If anyone has any insight on this, I'd greatly appreciate it.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
443 Posts
For those of here coming from Google, there was an update to the way the alternator was mounted at some point in the FJ Cruiser's production run.

My SO has a 2011 that just had the alternator die on it. My hubris said "I can take care of that, it'll be easy", and as is usually the case when your hubris speaks before being informed, I've run up on a problem that's not obvious to me how to fix with the tools I have available.

I've circled the bracket that apparently attaches to the bottom rear ear of the alternator in the photo attached. It's immediately above the AC compressor, which is the gray rectangle perpendicular to the bolt head.

I'm at a loss as to how to actually get to it to remove it currently, but I haven't lifted the vehicle and pulled off the skid plate yet. Even doing that, it looks like it'll be difficult to get to. If the AC compressor can be removed and moved aside, that may be the solution. If anyone has any insight on this, I'd greatly appreciate it.
I recently discovered this bolt on my 2010 FJ. It's a real PITA to get to. I succeeded using a small socket wrench, 12mm deep socket and, I think, a short extender. Scratched my hand up taking it out and putting it back in. I approached it through the rear of the wheel well, but it was certainly a challenge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Thanks to the OP, got the job done. Those 2 mounting bolts were incredibly tight. Even when I put the top bolt back in, I had to use a long breaker bar to tighten the bolt the entire time. Made me nervous as hell that I was cross threading or doing something wrong. I had never had to do this before, but it worked out.

I did everything from up top, no need to remove the skid plate.


Great write up!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,448 Posts
Even when I put the top bolt back in, I had to use a long breaker bar to tighten the bolt the entire time. Made me nervous as hell that I was cross threading or doing something wrong. I had never had to do this before, but it worked out.
IDK why but I pretty much had to do the same.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,448 Posts
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
Top