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So, just after my majorlast service, I was told that the rear diff fluid was "a little dark". But they ddn't relce it, which was fine - they're a great shop and I trust them and they don't do anything unnecessary.

However, *I* do do things that might be unnecessry. So I have my 4-ish quarts of diff coil, a drain pan, etc....

...anything I should know, not having performed this procedure before?
 

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Much like an oil change, I would do it after it is a bit warm from use.
I feel that the stock oils are junk (IMO), so I would use a better oil. I use a small hand pump, it sucks, but it works...
Also if you have not done it yet, now is a good time to take a look at your breathers. Getting them up high is a good idea.
 

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This is what I did.

make sure your ride is on level ground (i put a 2 ft level on the front bumper) to compensate for the "driver side lean"

drained the rear diff

replaced with royal purple (3litres plus a little bit more)

It is really hard to over fill the rear diff if you do it will run out the fill hole which is on the back of the axle.

I paid $50 for RP to fill the rear diff

only mistake i make was to drive 3 miles back to the lordco store with the level
still sitting on the front bumper:giggle:
 

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Drive around a bit to warm it up so you'll have a better drain.

Remove the fill plug before the drain plug. Just in case that you can't open the fill plug, you won't have an FJ with it's diff drained and empty.

If you have a Mityvac, it makes filling the diff a breeze (Little write up in my build thread). If you don't have one, get a clear section of tube (4 ft would be good) and a funnel.

Torque it back up to 32 and 30. Don't over tighten.
 

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Make sure you are able to get the fill plug loose befoe you drain the rear diff. You dont want to drain it then not be able to fill it up. Also go the the stealership and pick up some new gaskets. The crush washer will go on the drain plug and the regular one on the fill. Your drain plug has a magnet on it that will probably have some metal shavings on it that look like martian slime, unless there is quite a bit dont be concerned, this is why you are changing the fluid. I didnt need any special tubing to fill the rear diff because there is enough room to get to the fill hole. The socket is a 24mm that will take a bit of umph to break loose. Have fun!
 

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Check your owners manual for fluid levels in the front and rear diffs. I just changed my front and rear diff and transfer case to Royal Purple. The whole deal took less than six quarts. Yes, a pump would have helped but I used a short hose attached to the nipple on the RP bottle for the front fill and it worked fine.

cheers,

dale
 

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The bolts typically are easy to break loose if you use a 1/2" socket and give it a good quick rap with the bottom of your fist. It will break loose and then be easy to get out. Both of them. You may not need the washers but it is always a good idea to have them. You don't need to jack up the FJ, everything is really accessible and easy. A $6 hand pump for the oil makes it a little easier. Or a long clear tube, whatever works for you. Use a torque wrench to prevent leaks.

DEWFPO
 

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Just so you know for future reference, dealerships and shops are not allow by law to try to sell you a service based on color or smell or texture of fluids. It is completely illegal. This is considered to be a "pressure tactic" that can be taken to court by the purchaser. I was a Gen. Manager for a well known oil business and this info was drilled into our heads. Stick to the manufaturers recomendations from the owners manual and you won't go wrong. Plus if you don't stick to what Toyota recommends they can and will refuse warranty work. This doesn't mean you should only go to the dealership, just get it documented whenever you get the service done. And if you do it yourself, good luck. Save your reciepts.
 

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So i now know how to change the rear diff but how do you change the front diff and trans case?
The owners manual i have does not show how to change the motor oil let alone the diff and transfer fluids.
Are there any manuals that can be downloaded that show these step by step?
 

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Well, that has been covered in other threads, but the rear diff and transfer case are the easiest to do. The TC fill and drain plugs are facing the rear of the vehicle, and are quite self evident

You should not need a pump of any sort if you are using quart or litre bottles of gear oil. The bottles have a plastic teat or nipple. You unscrew the nipple, remove the foil seal on the bottle, cut about 1/4 inch off the nipple, screw it back onto the bottle, and stick the nipple in the fill hole.

There might be a wee bit of gear oil left behind in the bottles. Use one empty bottle as a container to catch the leftover from the other empty bottles. To do both diffs and the TC, you might end up with a 1/2 quart gear oil this way

The front diff can be a bit of a challenge. Absolutely take off the factory skid plate under the motor and front axle. If you don't have a pump, you will need a *long* plastic tube about the same diameter as the bottle nipple.

Shop around at auto parts stores for that cheap plastic tubing. YOu can probably get 3-4 ft of it for under $4. Stick the tube in the fill hole, other end put the bottle nipple into, then *slowly* add gear oil. Yes, it will be a bit of a mess

I use Mobil Delvac Synthetic 75W-90 in a pail, so I have a pail pump. Makes refilling a snap. The first time I had the factory skid plate off, I used a torch to notch under the front diff, so I no longer have to remove it to change the gear oil. That flimsy thing won't stop a rock anyway
 
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